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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2003, 05:42 AM
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Be carefull, apply it with your fingertip around the coolant passages, a little goes a very long way. 100% pure silicone from G.E., hardware store, non-high temp variety is what they have all told me they use.
I ditched the header gaskets and use only silicone. I used to use high-temp for the headers, but when my engines came off the dyno this time, I noticed they had used the regular stuff there too. I'm trying it this time.



I should probably add that this is done using the Fel-Pro competition head gaskets with the stainless steel compression ring, #1011 I believe is the part#

Last edited by scottj; 02-28-2003 at 06:06 AM..
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2003, 07:12 AM
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Wilf,
Fel-pro's graphite head gaskets are recomended for aluminum heads, the graphite lets the heads move as they heat up and cool down .No sealer on the head gasket, just thread sealer on the bolt threads.
Perry.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2003, 11:58 AM
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Once again guys, thanks for all the help. As soon as my new header gaskets arrive the torque wrench will be out.

TomS - I checked with my engine builder - the alternator bracket is his own design/make. Basically a thick plate spanning two bolt holes on the front of the heads, with a cylindrical stub coming off it, female tapped for the bottom bolt of the alternator fixing. Picture below should show what I mean.
Gosh - isn't my engine getting dirty down there!!! And rusty in places too.
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Old 03-01-2003, 05:16 PM
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Wilf,
Remembered to check what I torqued to finally. I used 75 for the short bolts and 80 for the long bolts, and then bumped them another 5 ft/lbs each after they leaked. Remember this was with bolts lubricated with the ARP lube.
h dog
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2003, 09:22 PM
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Wilf,
Thanks for info and picture of alt. I will cobble up something. Don't like what i have now from my builder. By the way are those Taylor sparkplug wires? If so, how do you like them?

Tom S.
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Old 03-01-2003, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by wilf leek


Umm, just a thought guys, are we sure that any of the head bolts enter the water jacket on a 351W? I know they do on a 302, but I am not sure about a 351.

I am also torqueing to 105lbs ft on the short bolts, 115 on the long. Sound right?
It depends on what year block you have. Pre '81 blocks do not have any head bolt holes that enter the water jackets.
The same is true for 302's
--Mike
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 03-02-2003, 01:31 PM
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Tom S - yup, those are Taylor HT leads, and they work fine. No problems with proximity to the headers, and I never once got a shock off them - in fact I have now become slightly blase about them and don't worry about touching them whilst the engine is running, even with damp hands etc. Not really good practice, I know.
They also seem to have good connections at the plugs - nice and snug, never come loose. And I can hose the engine down and it never misses a spark. Not that I hose it down often, if course, but occasionally I need to wash off the road salt.

And now - the GOOD NEWS!

It would seem that my engine is web-enabled. Since I started posting here about the mystery water leak, guess what - it stopped, without me laying a single spanner on it. Somehow It must have known I was about to attack it with various large tools, and decided to behave itself. Of course, in the meantime, I have shelled out for gaskets and silicon.

This could well be down to the fact that I had some "leak-stopper" type stuff in from day one, maybe it's done it's work at last.

Anyhow - if it starts again I know just what to do - post the fact here! LOL

Engines - don't you just love 'em??
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 03-02-2003, 06:20 PM
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Wilf,
I have a similar engine, 351w, Vic. Jr. heads, Performer RPM intake, I had the same symptoms and noticed the coolant at about the same location, symptom came and went. I was advised to retorque the intake manifold. Since doing this, I have had no further symptoms. Seems the coolant migrated along the seems between the diferent components.
Good Luck,
Chas
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