lots of white smoke

tamanaco · #1 (**permalink**) 11-26-2006, 04:51 AM

Ford crate 302, 345hp, air gap intake with 2500 miles. in second gear foot to the floor....4500rpm all kind of white smoke out the right side of the car. Clutch in motor stalled, coasted to a stop. Tried to start the motor a few minutes later...it turned maybe 1/2 turn and stopped...locked up. Got her home, pulled the plugs, cooland on most of them, #1 cylinder plug really loaded. cranked motor with no plugs, water shot out of #1. All the further I got. I'm assuming a falure of the intake gasket? Will find out later today.

My questions are: #1 could this done major damage to the engine? like bent rod? or other? If so, how do you check these items?

trularin · #2 (**permalink**) 11-26-2006, 05:29 AM

Hydraulic lock can bend rods, cranks and crack walls...just to name a few of the things that can happen.

May I suggest you pop the engine and diassemble it. Then reassemble with attention to details.

Sorry to hear of your misfortune.

CHRIS DAMSCH · #3 (**permalink**) 11-26-2006, 06:24 AM

I just had this problem in July. Same symptoms: Lot's of white smoke out of passenger side pipe, water shooting out of the plug hole, hydraulic lock also. I tried the intake gasket 3 times then took the head off to discover the problem. Ended being the worst problem... Cracked block between the water passage and cylinder wall. My motor had a 1969 block.

Hopefully you just have a gasket problem.

STCinc · #4 (**permalink**) 11-26-2006, 06:29 AM

I've had the same issue, but didnt have my foot into it at the time..
I'm running an air-gap intake and found the gasket under the intake maifold had moved out of place.

I installed new gaskets and re-torqued several times to between run to make sure.

Hope all turns out well.

Sean

jarendall · #5 (**permalink**) 11-26-2006, 06:30 AM

pull the intake and valve covers inspect the push rods, if you do not see any damage, turn the engine over and look for bent rods, make sure the valves are opening, if you don't see any, do a compression check on all cyclinders, if they read fairly close, then you may not have any damage, if you have a cyclinder or more that reads low then you will most likely have to pull the heads and check for blown head gaskets, for bent or broken valve stems and holes in the pistons

tamanaco · #6 (**permalink**) 11-26-2006, 07:29 AM

Thanks for all the feedback...It's a failed gasket between the water port in the #1 intake port. The screw at his location was almost loose, as a matter of fact all the screws on the intake right side of the motor were not very tight, vs the left side. I'm really supprized of this from a professional builder.

jarendall · #7 (**permalink**) 11-26-2006, 07:53 AM

I installed my engine my self, last week I noticed a small leak around the thermostat housing, thought the gasket was leaking, when I went to change it I found the hose clamp was loose, checked all the hose clamps and found them all loose, I know that I tightened them when I put them on, so I guess things just get loose over time, I think the hoses shrunk, I also changed my valve covers a couple years back and they started leaking, found the bolts loose on them, so it is a good idea to check for loose bolts and clamps every once in a while

STCinc · #8 (**permalink**) 11-26-2006, 08:01 AM

I wouldnt be so fast to blame the builder for 'loose' bolts. They will tend to loosen anyway.
Make sure all is well, check the motor to make sure of no internal damage, replace the gaskets (yes, both sides), install the maifold and then keep an eye on the screws to make sure they dont loosen IE: retorque them after a few runs.

Rwillia4 · #9 (**permalink**) 11-26-2006, 08:14 AM

oncec the engine goes thru a few heat cycles all of the screws are a little loose, even the head bolts are not as tight as when the were cranked on. It is a metal thing...
Sometimes the owner has a loose screw after a fun morning drive

ENTDOC · #10 (**permalink**) 11-26-2006, 08:27 AM

I had to retorque the heads twice in the first 1000 miles. My symptoms were mild(air in coolant system after brisk runs). I was amazed how loose the head bolts had become. After that no problems.

Rick Parker · #11 (**permalink**) 11-26-2006, 08:37 AM

Based on your description of when and how the engine locked up, it is doubious that there is any damage to a rod. As long as it was not "forced" by attempting to start it numerous times against a hydraulic locked cylinder. Depending on the type of gaskets being used they will relax (compress) after heat cycling and the clamping force is often lost. It is a good idea to go over the bolts several times during installation and after heat cycling. After heat cycling and retorquing a couple of times they will compress to their final "SET". This process is often overlooked. Change the oil and filter at this time too, it may be contaminated. This is a good time to retorque the head gaskets too. What mileage/how much time on the engine.
When reasembling, use lubricant on the threads.

tamanaco · #12 (**permalink**) 11-26-2006, 07:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick Parker

Based on your description of when and how the engine locked up, it is doubious that there is any damage to a rod. As long as it was not "forced" by attempting to start it numerous times against a hydraulic locked cylinder. Depending on the type of gaskets being used they will relax (compress) after heat cycling and the clamping force is often lost. It is a good idea to go over the bolts several times during installation and after heat cycling. After heat cycling and retorquing a couple of times they will compress to their final "SET". This process is often overlooked. Change the oil and filter at this time too, it may be contaminated. This is a good time to retorque the head gaskets too. What mileage/how much time on the engine.
When reasembling, use lubricant on the threads.

Rick, thank for the feedback...the engine has 2500 miles since new.