Overheating or bad gauge?

[Blas]

The bypass hose allows water to circulate through the block while the thermostat is closed. It allows for a more even warm up without hot spots. You indeed may have a sticking thermostat. You should consider using a "Balanced Thermostat" style thermostat. Better flow and I believe they fail "open". Would be interesting to run without a thermostat and see if the temp spiking still occurs. Be sure to install any new thermostat with the weep holes on the flange at the top and install the thermostat in the correct spring orientation. (engine vs. radiator)

[thudmaster]

How about posting a few pictures of your engine so we can see which water lines you have or don't have............

something like this

[madmaxx]

Thudmaster,

Looking at your water pump and alternator, it does not apear that your bolts are polished, is it just a reflection or do they not come polished?

Originally Posted by thudmaster

How about posting a few pictures of your engine so we can see which water lines you have or don't have............

something like this

[thudmaster]

they are all arp.......black

some on the block are chrome

[madmaxx]

Nice touch, breaks up the glow. Sweet looking engine!!!

Originally Posted by thudmaster

they are all arp.......black

some on the blovk are chrome

[Voyager]

Can't get a good picture of the engine with the hood on, so I'll try to explain the hose setup.

It's a 2010 KC 408 street crate w/ an Edelbrock Performer RPM INT MAN & Edelbrock 351W water pump in a Superformance w/ SS 351 expansion tank (no catch tank).

Water pump has a hose from the pump to the heater. The other water pump outlet is plugged (as is the corresponding outlet on the expansion tank neck). Other heater hose goes from the heater to top of the intake.

One radiator hose goes from the expansion tank to the top of the radiator. Other radiator hose from the bottom of radiator to the bottom of pump.

KCR staff said a bypass not required. Told me to verify thermostat orientation and operation, (use 180 or 160) and then drill two to three 3/32 holes in it.

Will try it this weekend.

[Barnsnake]

Ed,
I was referring to the picture that Voyager included in post #29.

Ernie,
The Cleveland has the thermostat and the bypass in the cylinder block. In the "Clevor" setups they move the thermostat and bypass back to the front of the intake manifold like a Windsor.

The elimination of the bypass does increase the maximum efficiency of the cooling system, but in situations where the thermostat is closed a significant percentage of the time, it will cause the temperature to "yo-yo".

Voyager,
The two 3/32" holes in the thermostat will allow some minimal circulation and may reduce, if not eliminate the problem. Bear in mind there are a few million Windsor-style engines running out there, virtually all with the circulation bypass. Keep it in mind.