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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2008, 12:33 PM
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Default Voltmeter gauge wiring

I am replacing my Smith's amp guage with a Smith's voltmeter in SPF 2301. My amp guage currently has 2 red wires coming off of each of the 2 terminals. My volt guage requires requires 1-fused ignition wire and 1-ground wire. How do I tell which of the two wires on the amp guage is the fused ignition wire? What do I do with the remaining unused red wire? Is there a comon ground connection near this location?

Any help would be appreciated.

Anyone interested in buying my amp guage?
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2008, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MCOULTER View Post
I am replacing my Smith's amp guage with a Smith's voltmeter in SPF 2301. My amp guage currently has 2 red wires coming off of each of the 2 terminals. My volt guage requires requires 1-fused ignition wire and 1-ground wire. How do I tell which of the two wires on the amp guage is the fused ignition wire? What do I do with the remaining unused red wire? Is there a comon ground connection near this location?
Connect BOTH wires that are currently going to your ammeter to the positive side of your new volt meter. Connect the negative side of your volt meter to a good ground. Don't worry about the "fused" business unless you want the guage not to read when the car is off (not having an SPF wiring diagram in front of me). In that case, just feed the positive from anything that is turned "off" when the key is off.

EDIT -- Don't forget there's usually a feed for the little background light.

Last edited by patrickt; 04-20-2008 at 01:30 PM.. Reason: Remembered the little background light.
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2008, 03:51 PM
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You mean like this


Just my opinion FWIW but I would not attach the amp wiring to the Smiths voltmeter. All the accessory current flows through those wires on the ammeter from the battery source and the fuse assembly, check Blas's SPF wiring diagram for review. Those large ammeter wires need to the carefully and thoroughly soldered together and very securely shrink tubing isolated from anything else and zip tied carefully in a secure safe place. The tiny terminal on the voltmeter is not sufficient purchase for such heaving wiring to be positioned and connected there. Attach a "key-on" 12v + source to the positive side of the voltmeter, such as the wire that goes to your lighter or similar, other side of the voltmeter to ground. That's how I did it, works fine
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Old 04-20-2008, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MCOULTER View Post
Anyone interested in buying my amp guage?
Oh, BTW... eBay is your friend

sold my ammeter and mechanical oil press gauge easily
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2008, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Velox View Post
Just my opinion FWIW but I would not attach the amp wiring to the Smiths voltmeter. All the accessory current flows through those wires on the ammeter from the battery source and the fuse assembly, check Blas's SPF wiring diagram for review. Those large ammeter wires need to the carefully and thoroughly soldered together....
That's good advice. Strike my previous opinion.
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2008, 03:57 PM
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Egad forgot what else I wanted to mention

Absolutely, Positively, For-Sure make CERTAIN battery is disconnected before doing anything with those ammeter wires
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2008, 06:25 PM
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Right Don,
Just think of those 2 big red wires as welding rods.....
There is NOTHING to isolate them except melting through....
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Old 05-03-2008, 01:59 PM
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Okay, I will solder these two wires together, securely shrink tube, and thought I would zip tie the assemble to my steering shaft. Does anyone think this is not a safe location? Is shrink tubing enough isolation?
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Old 05-03-2008, 06:21 PM
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??? Those wires are a long way from the steering shaft ???
And one of them is quite short.....so you won't be moving it too far...
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Voltmeter gauge wiring-amp-meter.jpg  

Last edited by Blas; 05-03-2008 at 06:32 PM..
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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2008, 06:23 PM
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??? Those wires are a long way from the steering shaft ???
And one of them is quite short.....so you won't be movingit too far...
I was refering to the shaft under the dash adjacent to the amp gauge.
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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 05-10-2008, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Velox View Post
You mean like this


Just my opinion FWIW but I would not attach the amp wiring to the Smiths voltmeter. All the accessory current flows through those wires on the ammeter from the battery source and the fuse assembly, check Blas's SPF wiring diagram for review. Those large ammeter wires need to the carefully and thoroughly soldered together and very securely shrink tubing isolated from anything else and zip tied carefully in a secure safe place. The tiny terminal on the voltmeter is not sufficient purchase for such heaving wiring to be positioned and connected there. Attach a "key-on" 12v + source to the positive side of the voltmeter, such as the wire that goes to your lighter or similar, other side of the voltmeter to ground. That's how I did it, works fine

Odd thing, I disconnected the red wire to my lighter and placed it on the positive terminal on the voltmeter. Everything seems to work fine except my windshield wipers run continuously. I was just going to disconnect the windshield wipers. Any other ideas?
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Old 05-24-2008, 03:44 PM
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Default Lucas Amp Gauge ??

Mine (SP2811) is always reading negative and will go further negative if the fans are on. The local Ford Performance Dealer checked it out and said (or maybe I heard ) that the battery is fully charged and the alternator is charging normal. He said that gauge was in line and it was not unusual for a Amp Meter to read negative cuz if the battery is fully charged the voltage regulator will stop charging and so the system will draw power from the battery ??? I don't know if that makes any sense or not. Years ago, before the Japanese started making motorbikes we had to ride British Bikes and the Lucas electrical systems were a joke.....makes me think a bad gauge, anyone else have this situation ??
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Old 05-24-2008, 05:10 PM
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Your car is SO new...
Take it back to the dealer and tell them to "FIX IT." - period.
Make yours work like most of the other AMP gauges in their cars...
I make the wirings diagrams for these cars, so I've seen quite a few, and that's not normal...

Last edited by Blas; 05-24-2008 at 08:21 PM..
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Old 05-24-2008, 08:42 PM
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Default I wish...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blas View Post
Your car is SO new...
Take it back to the dealer and tell them to "FIX IT." - period.
Make yours work like most of the other AMP gauges in their cars...
I make the wirings diagrams for these cars, so I've seen quite a few, and that's not normal...
The nearest dealer is about 800 miles away. I don't think Park Place in Seattle is a dealer anymore. I'll take it into a Auto Electric shop here in Wenatchee and see what they can do. I bought my car from Dynamic and they have been sold and my car is the responsibility of the former owner and I would be amazed if he did anything. I'll send the bill to him and Superformance and see if they are stand up guys...I suppose it could be a installation problem ??? This I know, I will never ever buy another component car, you just get a run around...I don't even have a MSO as yet !! Do you know if the diagram in the owners manual is correct ??
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Old 05-25-2008, 06:28 AM
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I would just call Lance (Owner: Superformance) first. Any money says he will ok a local shop to look at your car, as would Dynamic. Check your PM for some other information from me for things you can check first. FYI: There is always a period of debugging with these cars, just like a main-stream car, except you can't hear squeaks and the like with these cars....
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