Sheared off lower ball joint

[madmaxx]

Well, I went over every nut and bolt and every single one was so tight I could not budge as far as the chassis. I found the 4 bolts holding the transmission to bell housing not loose but I could turn them.

As far as the tie rod ends they were greased, as far as the ball joints in my opinion the only grease was assembly grease, in other words noyone ever greased the joints via the zerk fittings. I pumped alot of grease in each one, they way I know they had not be greased was one of the boots could be pulled back a little and all I saw was a residue, not be an expert I have no idea if this would last the life of the joint but with grease costing $4.00 tube and the effort of drilling and tapping zerk fitting seams pretty ignorant not to grease them.

I checked my passenger side for movement and found none, only about 100 degrees to day so I will check the drive side tomorrow.

In summary grease your ball joints ASAP!!!!

[Got the Bug]

MadMax,

Good point. I had the same experience regarding the grease fittings on my SPF. The first time I changed my oil, I took a look at the rubber around the ball joints and they looked deflated. I pumped a bunch of grease into those fittings. I though it was just an isolated event and someone had just overlooked it.

You posted at 7:36 pm, so I trust you had a cool beverage in hand!

[madmaxx]

Not yet on the beverage, but I did check the driver side and found the same the ball joints had about the same amount of lubricant as a nun' s party box on Good Friday. Yea there was a couple of drops but not enough to brag about.

Regardless of the ball joints being lube or not they should NEVER,EVER FAIL. True the ball would wear to the point where the ball popped out of the socket/housing in about 50K miles but the stud should never ever break. So we have a real mystery hear. I did see USA stamped on mine which made me feel better than Made in China. It will be interesting to hear what the failure analysis finds.

Either way no excuse for SPF not greasing the ball joints. If they are diligent enough to mark every single nut, bolt with paint to show they were tightened then they must be miscommunicating with their supplier. SPF thinks the supplier is greasing and the supplier must think SPF is greasing.

[VintageUpgrades]

I have never encountered a SPF roller to have grease in the ball joints or tie rods. Greasing these points is just another check box on our list when doing the install.

[Kenm4187]

Originally Posted by madmaxx

Not yet on the beverage, but I did check the driver side and found the same the ball joints had about the same amount of lubricant as a nun' s party box on Good Friday. Yea there was a couple of drops but not enough to brag about.

Regardless of the ball joints being lube or not they should NEVER,EVER FAIL. True the ball would wear to the point where the ball popped out of the socket/housing in about 50K miles but the stud should never ever break. So we have a real mystery hear. I did see USA stamped on mine which made me feel better than Made in China. It will be interesting to hear what the failure analysis finds.

Either way no excuse for SPF not greasing the ball joints. If they are diligent enough to mark every single nut, bolt with paint to show they were tightened then they must be miscommunicating with their supplier. SPF thinks the supplier is greasing and the supplier must think SPF is greasing.

My ball joint was lubed when it sheared off, only about 1420 miles on the car. I agree it should not have sheared off. I got the new ball joints installed today and used the old spindle (just to get it out of the trailer) until my new parts arrive. When I got it out of the trailer I found even more damage. When the wheel came off it hit the side pipe and pushed it back. The pipe is in about 2" by the rear tire. It looks like the exhaust manifold may be bent also, I can see an impact point in the heat shield behind it, very hard to tell. It just keeps getting better. Looks ok at the head.

Kenm2560

[madmaxx]

Kenm2560,

I assume the failure is being analysed? What in the world could have caused this outside of a manufacturing defect. I assume you are replacing all 4.

[Kenm4187]

Yes, all four ball joints are being replaced, still waiting for two of them. The ball joint will be analysed. I don't know what else could have caused this failure.

[Jerry Clayton]

Lots of times we seem to focus downstream of where the actual primary failure occurred---I feel in this occurrence that the possibility exists that the upper failed first and then that the lower broke off at the stud.

[Kenm4187]

Originally Posted by Jerry Clayton

Lots of times we seem to focus downstream of where the actual primary failure occurred---I feel in this occurrence that the possibility exists that the upper failed first and then that the lower broke off at the stud.

Jerry,

The upper ball joint pulled out. I don't see any way this could happen if the lower ball joint didn't shear off first.

Thanks,

Kenm2560

[madmaxx]

Not that we will "solve it hear" but the lower is what supports the weight of the vehicle at all times, the upper just "holds" the steering spindle in place, my bet would be the lower failed first.

Does anyone have a part number and/or manufacturere of the ball joints?

[madmaxx]

one day i will learn to spell i hope, here instead of hear, there instead of their, to, instead of two, know instead of no, yes I am bored today

[Kenm4187]

I got the exhaust header off and it looks bent to me, but I don't have one to compare too.

Thanks,

Kenm2560
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/k...4187/017-1.jpg
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/k...4187/006-1.jpg
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/k...by4187/019.jpg

[Jerry Clayton]

Well I see the possibility of at least 3 ways

Wrong application for type of ball joint

Steering load

Brake torque load

Combination of steering and brake forces

Binding in upper shaft

In the pictures it looks like the steering arm has been moved to the short location--this will increase the loading on the tie rod which is broken---if this happened first the wheel would turn out from the load and could rip out or break either ball joint

Not trying to be a smart ie but -------

Jerry

[thudmaster]

Ken, I did not realize you had done so much body damage until I looked at your photobucket. I'm sorry for your lose.................

May I suggest Kens Auto Body in Yuba City. He did a great job in repairing my old spf. Good luck with it and we missed your at the breakfast this weekend.

[Kenm4187]

Originally Posted by thudmaster

Ken, I did not realize you had done so much body damage until I looked at your photobucket. I'm sorry for your lose.................

May I suggest Kens Auto Body in Yuba City. He did a great job in repairing my old spf. God luck with it and we missed your at the breakfast this weekend.

Hi Ed,

Sorry I missed you. I was there for a little while and talked to a few people. I did not stay for breakfast, had to get back and work on the car. The worst part was after I got it out of the trailer I found more damage. The left exhaust header had been hit by the wheel and bent.

It was nice seeing all those Cobras. It seems like a good group of people. I hope you guys had a nice breakfast.

Thanks,

Kenm2560

[Bartruff1]

Turns out mine was dry (1000 miles) ...replaced ...runs smooth and quiet...

[65cobra1]

I've been looking around the "Search" function for some information re greasing the upper and lower ball joints

Seems when I push in a substantial amount of grease it still wants to take more.

I've been watching for grease to creep out under the rubber cup...Is there a possibility of overgreasing those fittings or do you just keep pushing in the grease until it starts coming out from around the rubber cup.

Probably a silly question but I don't want to screw things up and have to replace parts with only 4000 + miles on them.

Thanks for the input...
Ivan #2450

[Kenm4187]

Jerry,

The steering arm bent and then broke. From the pictures it looks like it bent around the lower shock mount after the lower ball joint sheared off. The tie rod end has been in that location for about 8 months. There were no marks from anything hitting and there was no tire rub on sharp turns. It did not happen during hard turning or braking. The ball joints were the ones that came with the car (about 1400 miles on them). Here are some pictures of the broken steering arm.
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/k...4187/002-1.jpg
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/k...4187/003-1.jpg
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/k...4187/004-2.jpg

Thanks, for the input.

Kenm2560

Originally Posted by Jerry Clayton

Well I see the possibility of at least 3 ways

Wrong application for type of ball joint

Steering load

Brake torque load

Combination of steering and brake forces

Binding in upper shaft

In the pictures it looks like the steering arm has been moved to the short location--this will increase the loading on the tie rod which is broken---if this happened first the wheel would turn out from the load and could rip out or break either ball joint

Not trying to be a smart ie but -------

Jerry

[vector1]

grease er up until you start to see grease, then wipe excess off. you'll prob have to clean it off again after you get some suspension movement.

[madmaxx]

If your boots gets tight with grease that is enough, you do not need it oozing everywhere.