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10-23-2008, 10:34 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 89
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Not Ranked
blas the install was done at D&M, car is spo 2162 and has 700 miles on it. also there are 2 shims under the mount on the pass side to raise the motor up.
when i said about shifting the motor i mean shifting it from side to side driver to pass side.
its just the side pipes are off running down the side of the car and where the pipes come through the body is bad also, i talked with kevin 2 days ago and he told me the car originally had a roush engine in it and they took it out and put a ford mosport 475hp engine in it, im not sur if this issue is the norm for these cars or if its the ngine not looking centered in the engine bay
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10-24-2008, 08:07 AM
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Beam Me Up Scottie
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Squantum (part of Quincy),
MA
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF1049 Titanium w/black stripes, 351W with Trick Flow Heads, Tremec 3550
Posts: 7,592
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobras
... the install was done at D&M, car is spo 2162 and has 700 miles on it.
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OK. Write out all of your complaints and ask D&M for a written answer. Maybe they will correct some of the things. If not, get a written reply to your questions. Then you will have a leg to stand on if anything goes wrong. Once you make any adjustment to the "install", D&M are off the hook.
One thing you want to take a look at is the driveshaft angles.
Now that you have my attention, I may go out to my unheated garage (42°F outside) and take some measurements. But I have 17K miles, and no problems with paint by header/exhaust pipes.
As soon as you touch the gas pedal, the carb should respond. Are you a SCOF member yet? There is a great write up on accelerator pedal adjustments in the library. You should also join Second Strike. Both SPF based sites have a ton of help.
Good Luck
__________________
Warren
'Liberals are maggots upon the life of this planet and need to get off at the next rotation.' (Jamo 2008)
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10-24-2008, 03:32 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: San Jose,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF #1436 514
Posts: 1,489
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Not Ranked
I have #1436 with a big block in it. My motor sits 3/4" off to the passenger side. Even though the engine is that far over, my side pipe was still closer to the body on the passenger side. On SCOF, you can purchase a shim to correct it. Is isn't just a flat shim, is is a tapered shim. Otherwise the pipe drops down to much.
Before I put the shim in, I couldn't even put my finger between the pipes and body. I never changed it till I had about 15k miles on the car.
As for the clutch, it is only the master cylinder pushing the pedal back up. So I can't image it getting any faster unless you put a spring on it which I don't think it needs.
Did you check to make sure the nut on the gas pedal shaft is tight? If it is loose, the pedal will move before the shaft moves all the linkage. If thats the case, the shaft might already be worn. I had to replace mine.
Hope this helps.
Scott
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10-24-2008, 05:20 PM
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CC Member / Sponsor
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 808
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Not Ranked
My experience is to shim the side pipe. You can get these from Eric at Performance Engineering, Ross, OH.
Bill
__________________
Squeaky wheel always gets the grease!!
www.gcperf.com
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10-24-2008, 05:38 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 89
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thanks guys for your time and tips, well im happy to say that i did fix the issue today took me 5 hrs to do but its done gaps are almost perfect 100 times better then what it was, but let me tell you to undo motor tranny mounts wasnt bad at all it was shifting the motor around and the checking it the back under car etc,, damm it sucked but 6 cups of coffee and about 10 smokes its all said and done,
sonow i move on to the next issue the gas pedal the 10mm nut at the top of the gas peddal is tight and all looks good there, i will have to join the 2 sites mentioned above to research the whole site and tinker withmy car,
again thanks to all who posted.
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10-24-2008, 06:15 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF#0760
Posts: 3,409
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Not Ranked
You spoke with Brian at D&M today too I understand...
__________________
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Large, easy to read and trace schematics with part numbers, wire colors, wire gauge, fuses, and electrical upgrade information. Trouble-shooting and replacement part numbers for those roadside repair adventures.
SPFWiringDiagrams@Comcast.net
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10-24-2008, 06:27 PM
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Beam Me Up Scottie
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Squantum (part of Quincy),
MA
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF1049 Titanium w/black stripes, 351W with Trick Flow Heads, Tremec 3550
Posts: 7,592
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Not Ranked
Cobras - glad you fixed your problem. Have you taken it for a ride yet?
I went out to measure my clearances about 3:30 and it was all the way up to 62°F, so I had to take a ride. Thanks for giving me a reason to go out today. 
BTW, the closest distance between pipes and body is 5/8 inch at the back radius of the header tubes as it exits from the body. The closest distance of my exhaust along the bottom of the body is about 3/4 inch. And the clearances are approx equal on both sides.
__________________
Warren
'Liberals are maggots upon the life of this planet and need to get off at the next rotation.' (Jamo 2008)
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10-25-2008, 06:39 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Long Island,
ny
Cobra Make, Engine: Midstates, 501
Posts: 120
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Not Ranked
Similar issue
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobras
thanks guys for your time and tips, well im happy to say that i did fix the issue today took me 5 hrs to do but its done gaps are almost perfect 100 times better then what it was, but let me tell you to undo motor tranny mounts wasnt bad at all it was shifting the motor around and the checking it the back under car etc,, damm it sucked but 6 cups of coffee and about 10 smokes its all said and done,
sonow i move on to the next issue the gas pedal the 10mm nut at the top of the gas peddal is tight and all looks good there, i will have to join the 2 sites mentioned above to research the whole site and tinker withmy car,
again thanks to all who posted.
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Cobras,
Can you tell me exactly how you moved the engine and drive line over. I have a similar issue, I just installed my motor and tranny yesterday all seemed to be lined up nice (I haven't attached the headers yet, doing that between today and tomorrow). But I noticed that the shifter seems to be too far to the driver side. When I actually attached it and put it in first and second gear it is rubbing on the cut out (didnt have that in the past). If I could move the line over that 1/4" it would be perfect. Keeping in mind I havent hung the pipes and headers yet.
For the record this is not a brand new build, it is just a brand new motor. Same 460 style, Just everything brand new.
Mike
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10-25-2008, 07:48 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 89
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Not Ranked
hi mjmacqua
all i did was loosen off the motor mounts , not the mount bolted to the block, but the mount bolted to the frame, there are the slots that go side to side and front and back also loose off the 2 nuts for the tranny mount, i had my pipes on the car i just took off the 2 rear hangers on the side pipes it made moving things around much easier, i just shifted things around till i got the pipes to where i wanted them coming out of the body holes and along the body, made sure the engine was centered in the bay and tightened it all back, what i did also was lowerd the hood down and see if the air cleaner is centered in the scoop opening, it all turned out great, bit of a pain but well worth it
is your shifter in the neutral position? i was worried about that also but it worked out . mind you the tranny mount has no adjustment from side to side, only front and back so your main place to move is the motor
i also recomend that you hang your pipes before you do it this way you know for sure its in the right place before tightening it all down again
let me know how it turns out
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