Oil filter used and why? - Page 2

Mark IV · #21 (**permalink**) 11-20-2016, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by keezling

If I took a repainted Ford filter, put it in a fancy box with a picture of a Cobra on it and advertised it as "better" for $XX I wonder how many I'd sell? OEM is generally a good plan. Good pricing due to mass production and they care about their reputation. I really doubt small aftermarket outfits have banks of oil engineers on the payroll to crank out filters which aren't even their main products?

Most oil filters are made by three main companies in the USA. Most are made to the specs of the purchaser, Ford does not make oil filters but they do have them built to their specifications and test often to assure quality control. I think Champion Labs if the current vendor for Ford. They may also be making the filters currently for Mighty (they did in the past) but I can assure there are NO interchangeable pieces between the two brands.

Yes, OEM is often the best balance of quality to price.

Texasdoc · #22 (**permalink**) 11-20-2016, 01:45 PM

Is there a difference between the CM-6731-FL1A and the M-6731-FL1A?

rodneym · #23 (**permalink**) 11-20-2016, 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Uhhh, isn't that made at the Charmin factory?

Uh, Pat, pleeeease explain that one.

1985 CCX · #24 (**permalink**) 11-20-2016, 04:43 PM

Ok guys, gonna use the one I have used in the past...
FL1A

fordracing65 · #25 (**permalink**) 11-20-2016, 05:31 PM

Wix for the performance and price

Jaydee · #26 (**permalink**) 11-20-2016, 05:46 PM

Having a magnet on the sump plug is also a good idea.
JD

Sydney · #27 (**permalink**) 11-20-2016, 07:15 PM

I use the Canton CM filter. I like the idea of the 8 micron replaceable element.

fordracing65 · #28 (**permalink**) 11-20-2016, 07:39 PM

Every time I read about a part I have never used. I google it and learn all about it. That's what makes this site so good. I'm an oil filter brand expert now.

Thor maine · #29 (**permalink**) 11-20-2016, 08:43 PM

Centrifugal oil filtration, one micro filtration.

spdbrake · #30 (**permalink**) 02-13-2021, 09:28 AM

Although through the years on this BDR I've used Wix 51515, R, XP, FL1-A (aka Purolator), Royal Purple.
I thought I'd try something different this oil change. Champion COS8A
Same specs as the Wix 51515.
Made by Federal-Mogul. https://www.drivparts.com/brands.html#

https://www.drivcat.com/catalogs.aspx#passcar

Strange it won't let me link the filter picture located in my Club Cobra gallery.
gives an error "Access Denied - Sucuri Website Firewall"

cobrasc1966 · #31 (**permalink**) 02-14-2021, 07:37 AM

I use the AC Delco filters, and have a dual mount. These filters deliver consistently higher oil pressure than any others I've tried - Fram, Purolator, Motorcraft, Wix. And they're good filters.

hauss · #32 (**permalink**) 02-14-2021, 08:49 AM

Since everyone is giving opinions, I thought I would give you mine. More important than what filter you use, and what brand oil, is how often you keep your oil in the engine. I change 8 quarts every 1000 to 1500 miles or every 3 months . Excessive you bet but I know my oil is clean!

MAStuart · #33 (**permalink**) 02-14-2021, 09:04 AM

If they have a bypass how does much oil get filtered at all?

spdbrake · #34 (**permalink**) 02-14-2021, 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cobrasc1966

I use the AC Delco filters, and have a dual mount. These filters deliver consistently higher oil pressure than any others I've tried - Fram, Purolator, Motorcraft, Wix. And they're good filters.

Just a note. Higher oil pressure on one filter VS another points to a restriction in flow. It's not the pressure itself that's the end all, but the sufficient flow volume to all areas needing lubricant. Just the same as having your thumb over the end of a water hose. Pressure and velocity increases and gpm drops.

Not throwing rocks at your choice of filter(s), more of an observation is all.

saki302 · #35 (**permalink**) 02-14-2021, 11:07 PM

All the mechanics I trust recommend Wix.

-Dave

Steve Gallegos · #36 (**permalink**) 02-16-2021, 12:04 PM

I use K&N 3001 gold

Unique427 · #37 (**permalink**) 02-16-2021, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Texasdoc

Is there a difference between the CM-6731-FL1A and the M-6731-FL1A?

Not certain but I think (CM-xxxx) denotes individual
filter canister and (M-xxxx) denotes a case of 12 canisters.

Both part numbers refer to the same oil filter.

Lou1119 · #38 (**permalink**) 02-16-2021, 04:23 PM

I use the Oberg remote filter and it has been extremely effective, cleanable and reusable.

cycleguy55 · #39 (**permalink**) 02-16-2021, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MAStuart

If they have a bypass how does much oil get filtered at all?

All of it if the bypass pressure isn't exceeded.

The bypass opens when the filter inlet pressure exceeds the outlet pressure by the specified amount of the bypass pressure valve. That usually happens when the oil is cold or when the filter media is plugged. Both situations cause restricted flow through the filter media so you want the bypass valve to open and allow the oil to continue flowing. The alternative would either be no oil to the engine or burst media. Also a distinct possibility is the oil pump relief valve would open if oil couldn't flow through the filter.

cycleguy55 · #40 (**permalink**) 02-16-2021, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spdbrake

Just a note. Higher oil pressure on one filter VS another points to a restriction in flow. It's not the pressure itself that's the end all, but the sufficient flow volume to all areas needing lubricant. Just the same as having your thumb over the end of a water hose. Pressure and velocity increases and gpm drops.

Not throwing rocks at your choice of filter(s), more of an observation is all.

Correct, flow matters. That's part of the reason I use 5W30 - it flows through those itty bitty spaces much better than that thick stuff - especially when cold. I still have plenty of pressure, hot or cold.