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Kirkham Motorsports

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Old 01-02-2002, 11:08 AM
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Question Stroking a 351 w

Does any one know the best stroker kit for a 351w I would like to build a 351w with TFS heads and ( Roller )Cam,lifters ,rockers .For under 3k any one have any combos or any info they can share with me or talk 351 w . I really want to stay with this engine thinking of a good street ,idle ,fuel milage with 400hp +.
I am running a 460 stock with mod cast heads on pump gas mech fuel pump and getting 13 mpg running low12s -high 11s in a 3800 lb Cougar ..for under 3k trans included .
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Old 01-02-2002, 07:30 PM
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Default CMC

How's your build up going? Any problems of note??
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Old 01-02-2002, 07:48 PM
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Lightbulb Have a pro build it !!

Mustang Mendez;
I'm in the process of having Dean Woodruff at House of Cobras build me one of his Stage 4 Stroked 351w... It's a 418ci with 504hp & 528lbs of torque on pump gas (around 13mpg).

I've driven a SPF with this motor bolted to a T-5 and it almost ripped my head off!

Call Dean (714-639-8088), he is a wizard.
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Old 01-02-2002, 07:53 PM
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Just started,,,, doing alot of planning and laying the chassie and drive train out $$$$ wise and perfomance wise trying to keep this whole thing under 20k but have a 45k car if you get my drift .I started with a good deal on the kit so I can put 12k with no problem .Except for time to work on my stuff .
How is your car coming along ? CMC mmmm
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Old 01-05-2002, 01:56 PM
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Default Motorsport 392cu.

Ok I am 5995.00 for a 430 hp roller motor w/all the goodies less CARB {NEIL } plugs and wires .hmmmmm I can sell a few of my Project mustang Collection to make up the diff.
Looks good . Any info on the m-6007-a397 stroker with in the club or other sources ?
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Old 01-05-2002, 02:31 PM
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mustangmendez,
Speedway motors offers a stroker kit which consists of a Scat 3.85 inch stroke steel crank, Keith Black pistons, and either forged "H-beam" rods or standard rods. I bought the kit with the forged rods for around $1150.00. Only problem I've had with installation is the rod bolts hit the bottom of the cylinders a little bit and I had to grind a small relief in the bottom of the cylinders. Otherwise installation has been a breeze and the extra torque you get with the stroker is worth every penny!
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Old 01-05-2002, 02:40 PM
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ttt
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Old 01-05-2002, 03:33 PM
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Speedway seems to offer the best price on the Scat stroker crank. KB has a specific piston for this combo. KB PN 364. Double check on KB website. KB is a good street mostly, drag ocassionally piston. They run with unusually tight clearances and will give you a better ring seal. If you plan on race mostly, street ocassionally, use the forged piston. Rods? If you have a set of prepped rods already (magged, sides ground, shot peened, ARP bolts, centers set) re use them. Again street use mostly here. If you have standard, out of a stock motor rods, what it will cost you to do them right will almost pay for a set of new forgings already setup. Your block will have to be notched slightly where the rod nuts come near the block. For Cobra motors, an SFI balancer, billet flywheel, and somebody's (Canton, Milodon, Moroso, etc.) baffled oil pan are almost not optional.

Your short block with parts, balancing and all will come in at around $1700 - $2000. The TFS heads will set you back $1100 - $1200. Hydraulic roller retrofit cam, lifters, spider, pushrods, springs, timing chain set about $750. CompCams pro-Magnum steel (steel, not aluminum for a street motor) roller rocker arms about another $300. Use the springs that come with the cam, not the ones supplied with the heads. I poly coated the springs (Airborne Coatings, same place the headers went, different coating) to help keep 'em cool and get a little more life out of them. Make sure either you, or your machine shop gets the pushrod length right. Most cam kits don't have the correct length pushrods, and you'll have to exchange them.

If you want a roller motor, $3000 won't cut it. The difference between a 351 and a 393 is the price of the crank or about $500.

A note here though. A bare set of heads appears on my bench, and my die grinder warms up all by itself. There is always something that needs cleaning up. I took the TFS's out of the box and bolted them on the motor untouched. There wasn't a thing I could have done to improve on them.

If I were bucks down, and had to keep this under $3k, I'd do the stroker. Clearance the block for the spider that has to go in the lifter valley for rollers. Use a hydraulic cam and somebody's iron heads for now. Easy (er) upgrade later. Can be done with motor in car. Notch pistons for both standard and TFS heads.

Distributor gear. Roller cam, steel gear. Non-roller cam, iron gear. Get it wrong and you chew up your cam gear, distributor gear, or both. No bronze gears on street motors.
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Old 01-05-2002, 04:39 PM
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The Ford SVO 392 Stroker is not a bad option for the money. They advertise 430 HP but a couple of magazines have dynoed them and they come out at over 450 HP. Change the cam and put a set of Edlebrock heads on and your over 500 HP. Take a look!
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Old 01-05-2002, 05:42 PM
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Agree that the SVO crate 393W is not a bad deal, but if I have to change the cam and heads in addition to buying the crate motor, You might as well build the motor the way you want it from the start and not have any expensive parts left over. Get the short block less cam from SVO, or get a machine shop to build you one. You can even specify a '74 or older core be used for registration as an over 25 year old car. Machine shop block core charge is $150 - $200 if you don't bring your own.

I'd argue that a used, well seasoned block is preferable to a new one. It has been heated and cooled hundreds of times, and isn't likely to dimensionally change while you own it. Most performance machine shops today use torque plates when they bore the engine to simulate head bolt torque distortion, and some even run hot water through the block to simulate the engine at operating temperature while boring and honing.

Still argue for having engines built locally unless you live out in the boonies and can't get good service locally. Something exotic, where I needed a specialist, a 427SO, or something machine shops don't see every day, sure send it off. But that's what performance machine shops do. They build hot rod engines for guys like you and me.

Don't get me wrong, I have my Ford SVO catalog as a reference too, but a lot of what Ford sells at a dealership can be had through the discounters for a lot less money.
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Old 01-06-2002, 06:42 AM
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Default 392 crate

I have the 392 crate rated at 438 hp mated with a Tremec TKO. I had it dyno'd on a Mustang chassis dyno.

The best pull was 291 hp, 305 ft/#'s. I had heard that this dyno was about 10% low, which would give me 320 hp at the rear wheels.

Then it would be a 36% power train loss to get to 438 as advertised.

I wasn't suprised at the numbers, I ( thinking like Tim Allen ) thought it would have been higher.

Oh, and don't try a progressive nitrous system, waste of money, it only gave me 25 more hp, it flooded the system and blew black smoke everywhere. No wonder I did not notice a huge power increase when on!

My $ 23 switch is in to replace the progressive.

Back to 500 hp range!!!
Which cam was that I need, and is that the Victor Jr heads I need to buy?

Waiting for more hp answers.
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Old 01-06-2002, 07:10 AM
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From all the research I have been doing the TFS-R heads look like the best hp head for a 351w w/ a 2.08 int valve and 64cc chamber , as for the cam research tell me it likes allot of cam . I don't have any mustang books past 1995 . This makes me want to pull my 460 out or my Hipo 390 Either way its just abought money How much do you want to spend vs. how fast you want to go .

Thats our motto here "All It Takes Is Time and Money "

Mustang Mendez
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Old 01-06-2002, 11:15 AM
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The folks at Race parts Dist. here in NC suggested to me that if I was going to build the 393 to go with the Edelbrock Victor jr. heads and the Victor jr. intake, which I did. These heads are probably as good as anyone's for street/strip/road course applications. Along with TFS and Edelbrock, you can also do real well with Brodix track 1, and Air flow Specialities 185 or 205 heads. My Edelbrock heads have 2.05 intakes and I don't see how you can get any bigger without doing some major mods to the valve geometry. I believe that Brodix has changed the geometry a bit to get large intake valves into their heads. They do require the use of the offset rocker arms from Ford. But you can go on forever, the possibilities are endless with all the heads, cams, and carbs available. Have fun
h dog
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Old 01-06-2002, 03:28 PM
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Check out Air Flow Research heads. They are CNC ported and reasonably priced. They have a website. I have a set and horsepower is PHENOMINAL!!
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Old 01-06-2002, 04:50 PM
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This is a coast High Performance 427 stroker, 550 HPhttp://community.webshots.com/storag...rVrgZuR_ph.jpg

Last edited by cobra 66; 01-06-2002 at 05:18 PM..
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