build party?

cheap · #1 (**permalink**) 02-10-2008, 08:37 PM

Uuugh... I don't really need a build party, I just need to figure out why my car won't start. I just replaced the oil pump/pickup/pump driveshaft due to a pump driveshaft failure.

Anyone want to pick a date to come to Enid and help get this thing sorted? Anyone have a wideband O2 sensor?? Pilot training is pretty busy so Saturdays are about my only free time. I have Boulevard Wheat on tap!

2KWIK4U · #2 (**permalink**) 02-10-2008, 10:06 PM

My first though is that the distributor didn't get re-installed in phase or maybe didn't get wired correctly. BTW, I do get to Enid quite often since the two main oil companies I consult for are based there. Just the mention of Boulevard Wheat made my mouth water.

Brad W.

cheap · #3 (**permalink**) 02-11-2008, 04:39 AM

The dizzy is back in exactly as it was removed. I'm pretty confident that it's installed correctly - the timing was set to about 10* before it came out and it was close to running before the oil pump problem. Before it would start but die immediately after, or maybe run for a few seconds but die if I touched the throttle at all.

Clois Harlan · #4 (**permalink**) 02-11-2008, 05:07 AM

What kind of distributor are you running? Are you running an MSD, Mallory, or some other type of electronic ignition? Have you got a good charge on your battery? How about your coil wires? Distributor cap may be a problem!

I know these are all very simple things but I have missed at least one on several occassions. If you still don't have it running this Friday send me an email and I will try and switch my schedule and drive up to Enid on Saturday.

clharlan@dcpmidstream.com

Clois

cheap · #5 (**permalink**) 02-11-2008, 05:01 PM

Clois, thanks for the help. I'm running and MSD TFI-module distributor and it's actually the second one I've had in this motor. There is no ignition box but I do use a high-vibration MSD coil. It appears more willing to try and start when the weather is warmer for sure, and occasionally it will catch and run but not for very long (seconds at most). That's probably what's the most frustrating - it's soooo close, and I know I've got all the pieces there because it tries, but something is holding it back and I don't know what.

Portoman · #6 (**permalink**) 02-11-2008, 05:14 PM

When the car runs for a few seconds, does it have a really rough idle? It sounds like the distributor could be off, even 1 tooth off would cause you problems.

cheap · #7 (**permalink**) 02-12-2008, 07:01 PM

No, if it'll idle it sounds pretty normal. I tried bumping the dizzy a tooth and even switching it 180*, it definetly ran worse then.

treblig · #8 (**permalink**) 02-12-2008, 07:59 PM

I'm not a engine guy. But I totally rebuilt a 5.0 from wireharness to all sencers, no pistons, cams and so forth. If you have the basics like timing cam, gears and dist'r then its is a EFI electroics problem. You can fake out the EEC by grounding out the relayes and sencers. O2's will just control your idel, lean or rich mixture and that all depends on the placement of the CO2's. If you have compression, gas and spark it should start. I'll take a double duce, 22 oz darft!!

cheap · #9 (**permalink**) 02-13-2008, 03:16 PM

I have compression x8, gas, and spark. The relays work as advertised (EEC turns on, FP turns on and runs). It'll start sometimes, it won't others. When it will start, it won't stay running. It will either A) die after a few seconds, or B) die the instant I touch the throttle. The IAB solenoid works. It's a mass-flo system calibrated for #42s, which I have installed. Timing is set about 10* BTDC and FP is between 30 and 40 w/ vacuum disconnected. All parameters are set so the car should at least RUN, even if it is poorly.

treblig · #10 (**permalink**) 02-14-2008, 07:39 AM

I guess it has never ran right??

If so:
If it runs then just stops that means everything works to a degree. Timing, O2’s crap like that will not stop the motor. I will cause it to run rich or lean, idle fast or slow. With moving components (cam, piston,crank,valaves) causes movement of wires, builds up heat and so forth this is causing it to quit on you.

This could be one or two problems or even both. Fuel flow or wiring.
1. The easiest thing to check first is fuel flow. Check the fuel flow / fuel pump. Go as far to the intake system as possible ( at the injector or carb. ) no flow then work yourself back until you get a consent flow. You need to run the flow test longer then the engine will idle. Don’t trust any gages, do it manually.
Check color of fuel filter dirt
New or used tank, rust inside?
Fuel lines smooth bends no kinks, clamps. If you have braded lines make sure you can see day light. On your pickup tube I’ve even seen where the screen got sucked into the line.

If the flow is constant then you an electrical problem.

1. On fiberglass cars 90% is due to incorrect ground or poor ground wires. This will really mess up any relay you have. I fought this for two months! What will happen here is,,, the car will start then stop. You turn the key to start it again and it just clicks because you lost your flow. Then the next day it will run.

2. Loose wire somewhere. Start by elemating all unnecessary system by pulling the fuses. All you need are systems that make the motor go. If this is your problem then plug each system in by it’s self. When the motor dies then you have and short, broken wire within that system.

3. OR, when the motor is running take a no-bounce hammer and tap your electrical components. You could have a bad solder joint, cracked board. Another trick is to get a hair dryer and put heat to your system. Heat will cause expansion causing everything to grow.

I know this is a lot but if you take it to a shop their just going to replace each item and charge you for one or ten items. Plus you will learn more about your car in case you have any road side issues. Like you do with Chevy’s.