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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-06-2010, 06:55 AM
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Sounds like my installation is the same as what you want.

My push-type slave cylinder bolts to a machined aluminum bracket (supplied by Superformance as part of their install kit) that bolts to the driver side of the Lakewood bellhousing (using the bellhousing-to-block attachment bolts), adjacent to the fork opening in the bellhousing.

Slave cylinder: Wagner F124111
Clutch fork: Dorman 14553
Throwout bearing: Federal Mogul FB-1625-C

Hope this helps.
Rodger
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-06-2010, 08:23 AM
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El, with my Lakewood, TKO600, FE combo I use the Ford D0TZ-7515A clutch fork with a hole drilled in the end of the fork so the slave-to-fork rod distance can be easily adjusted (drilling that hole is a job for the machine shop, btw). Note that in my photo below that in order to get the slave to line up properly with the fork an aluminum spacer was used (probably similar to what RodgerH was writing about above). The D0TZ-7515A is available from RockAuto for less that $20.
http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,cata...ATP_ZA101.html

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Old 01-06-2010, 08:34 AM
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Default Shot from the Rear

Here's a shot from the rear. I took this pic last year when we were all checking the torque on the pressure plate bolts on our aluminum flywheels (I know you remember that thread ).


Last edited by patrickt; 11-08-2016 at 12:35 PM..
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 01-06-2010, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
Ford D0TZ-7515A clutch fork with a hole drilled in the end of the fork so the slave-to-fork rod distance can be easily adjusted (drilling that hole is a job for the machine shop, btw
Patrick, I have to ask; why the machine shop?

Steve
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Old 01-06-2010, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovehamr View Post
Patrick, I have to ask; why the machine shop?

Steve
The part is case hardened and (uhh, at least for people like me) dropping it off at a machine shop that can cleanly drill through that type of hardened metal is the way to go.
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2010, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
El, with my Lakewood, TKO600, FE combo I use the Ford D0TZ-7515A clutch fork with a hole drilled in the end of the fork so the slave-to-fork rod distance can be easily adjusted (drilling that hole is a job for the machine shop, btw). Note that in my photo below that in order to get the slave to line up properly with the fork an aluminum spacer was used (probably similar to what RodgerH was writing about above). The D0TZ-7515A is available from RockAuto for less that $20.
http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,cata...ATP_ZA101.html

Patrick,

Do you have the p/n (or a source) for the pivot seat you used with your clutch fork? I checked with the local Ford garage and with RockAuto...both showed the fork you referred to, but neither had a reference to the pivot. The spring broke on my fork and I'm considering a different style.

Also, could you go into a little details on the fabrication of your adjustable clutch pushrod?

Thanks,
Rodger
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Old 02-10-2010, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RodgerH View Post
Do you have the p/n (or a source) for the pivot seat you used with your clutch fork?
I have a Lakewood 15210 Bellhousing. The pivot ball is the Lakewood Adjustable Clutch Fork Pivot Ball for that item. Here is the page: http://www.lakewoodindustries.com/Pr...minselection=6

Quote:
Originally Posted by RodgerH View Post
Also, could you go into a little details on the fabrication of your adjustable clutch pushrod?
You use a threaded rod coming out of the slave cylinder. The threaded rod pass completely though a larger piece that will make contact with the clutch fork. It is brass colored in the photo below. You can also see a silver locknut that holds the brass piece locked in place. The threaded rod passes all the way through the clutch fork via a hole that you must drill in the fork itself. You can place another nut on the threaded rod behind the clutch fork to ensure that it does not pop out of the fork on really fast shifts. Thus, everything is adjustable on the threaded rod.


Last edited by patrickt; 11-08-2016 at 12:36 PM..
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Old 02-10-2010, 01:08 PM
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Default Clarity

Just to be extra clear, the brass colored piece that comes in direct contact with the clutch fork is also threaded (it is not smooth-bored around the threaded rod). Thus you turn that brass colored piece while holding the threaded rod to adjust its proximity to the fork. This older post of mine has more detailed instructions on adjusting the clutch: Clutch Adjustments
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Old 02-10-2010, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RodgerH View Post
Do you have the p/n (or a source) for the pivot seat you used with your clutch fork? I checked with the local Ford garage and with RockAuto...both showed the fork you referred to, but neither had a reference to the pivot. The spring broke on my fork and I'm considering a different style.

Also, could you go into a little details on the fabrication of your adjustable clutch pushrod?
I used a BBC rocker pivot, slid over a hardened threaded rod ( from a leaf spring clamping U bolt ) with two jam nuts behind the rocker pivot. I ground the other end of the rod to a rounded shape that went into the seat inside the slave cylinder.
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