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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-21-2019, 12:51 AM
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Default Throwout bearing question?

Hello guys!
I need to know, what kind of throwout bearing do I have!
I searched the internet, but I couldn‘t find exactly the right one, that looks like mine! I would like to get more informations how it should work, because I think it works not right! I also can‘t see a bolt to hold the bearing in place while the bearing itself spins! The car has a Roush402R engine with a tremec tko600!
I try to upload a picture!

Thanks for help
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Old 07-21-2019, 01:30 AM
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Looks like it might be A Tilton 6000 HTOB. Click here for Tilton's page on their HTOB => Tilton 6000


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Old 07-21-2019, 01:37 AM
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The tilton has a screw that will hold it in place, so it will not rotate! I don‘t have that on mine!
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Old 07-21-2019, 04:56 AM
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My McLeod HTOB does not have a screw and rotates on the shaft, it looks similar to mine but not exact, but mine is newer and is for a Toploader as well. That would be my guess.

Jim
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Old 07-22-2019, 12:05 AM
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In general a HTOB, if not restrained, will try to rotate as hydraulic pressure is applied. If your hydraulic lines are strong enough they will restrain it. If not ... well you can figure that ending out pretty easily. McLeod offers three general types of HTOBs. One is similar to an OEM style and the other two, while similar, use different techniques to restrain the HTOB from rotating. One uses a sleeve with a tapered entry that uses friction to secure the assembly when it is pushed onto the transmission input shaft. the other uses a more traditional type of rotation restraint. Most HTOB's that that I have seen which live in the bell housing use a mechanical stop to prevent rotation.

By and large I would be reluctant to use hydraulic lines to restrain a HTOB from rotating on the input shaft candle stick. All manufacturers I have seen use some type of mechanical stop other than the hydraulic lines. If your HTOB truly has none it is possible that it / they may have been broken off. If that is true then you might need to obtain some service parts and that brings us back to who manufactured the HTOB if you are going to correct the problem.


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Last edited by eschaider; 07-22-2019 at 12:33 AM.. Reason: Spelling & Grammar
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Old 07-22-2019, 05:24 AM
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I have a McLeod 1400 Series "Bolt On" HTOB. McLeod makes two variants.
Slip on and bolt on. Selection is determined by the overall measurement
from the rear face of your bellhousing to the top of the release fingers on
the pressure plate. Less then 3"= 1300 Series Bolt On, more then 3"=1400 Series Slip On.


My McLeod Bolt On HTOB is rebuildable with a simple kit available from McLeod.
Have had several issue free years with the unit, but if/when the day comes
it leaks, I have a rebuild kit on hand for same day resolution of the problem.

Last edited by Unique427; 07-22-2019 at 05:28 AM..
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Old 07-22-2019, 08:48 AM
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I have a 12" McLeod clutch and pressure plate 1 3/8 input shaft the top loader trans. throw out system is the old fork lever type. External hydraulic slave cylinder. I originally had a Tilton clutch master cylinder 7/8" dia. it was just marginal. Either I could have either full clutch release or free travel but not both, and I let the adjustment get away from me and disaster followed. The old throw out bearing seized and ground the finger adjustment tips in the pressure plate. So McLeod repaired the pressure plater and cut the aluminum flywheel for the larger 12" steel heat shield (clutch surface). and bought a new McLeod 12" -1 3/8" clutch disk. Then I tried !5/16" diameter master cylinder, that gave me more slave cylinder travel for both free travel and full clutch release. Then later the free travel kept going away. That ended up being The original external slave cylinder was internally pitting and not fully returning with any farther than the pressure plate pushed the bearing back but the cylinder wasn't returning any more with just the lighter slave cylinders return spring and the bearing was still in constant contact with the pressure plate fingers. So I bought a new hydraulic external slave cylinder at a local clutch and brake shop. The new cylinder was all bright and shinny with a new rubber billows. I made a new adjustable push rod more adjustment and hex shoulders to grip-- wrenches not pliers. I ended up with a Tilton 1" dia. master cylinder for the clutch lots of movement but a little more foot pressure, shoes needed. I believe you may be talking about another clutch throw out system.
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Old 07-22-2019, 06:49 PM
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Mcleod. Uses rings on the retainer to adjust. The movement is only about .4something so it can't be too far out of adjustment. If the pedal comes to an abrupt and hard stop and the clutch is still not releasing either your pedal needs adjustment or the bearing is limiting movement, in that case do not use the Hulk leg. Adjust. If your clutch is slipping, adjust. It appears yours has one large spacer and a short one. Mine used multiple shorter ones.

Don't think they make them anymore.

Last edited by vector1; 07-22-2019 at 06:53 PM..
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