Anyone put a turbo in their CR? 5k max budget

RedHawk · #1 (**permalink**) 07-01-2018, 09:46 PM

So that's interesting. I have the blow off valve connected to vacuum on manifold but the regulator is open to atomosperic which is what automotive website references. Do I create a t-valve and connect both. What I have been reading is to connect it somehow to the carb hat. Somewhat confused actually. Cars running okay so fuel is getting in there.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gaz64

I don't see your regulator connected to manifold vacuum.

If we have 6psi of fuel pressure and 6 psi of boost pressure, no fuel gets into the bowls.

Gaz64 · #2 (**permalink**) 07-02-2018, 01:29 AM

I would think about adding a fuel pressure gauge, just for testing, in the cabin.

The reg could be referenced to the hat, so fuel pressure would be say 6 at idle, to 12 under boost.

Where as to manifold vac, it would be say 3 at idle, 6 at zero vacuum, and then 12 etc.

Depends on your current vacuum at idle, (camshaft), and how much boost you are running.

You could also reference the regulator T'eed with an adjustable bleed to the carb hat, then can you dial up what your fuel pressure curve is separately to boost.

Gary

RedHawk · #3 (**permalink**) 07-02-2018, 08:08 AM

I have a gauge on the reg and it is set to 7. TORQSTORM rec 6-8. The reg uses 7 as a base and then adjusts as needed. The vacuum seems okay too as it idles pretty good. I can check that later today. Thanks for the tips.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gaz64

I would think about adding a fuel pressure gauge, just for testing, in the cabin.

The reg could be referenced to the hat, so fuel pressure would be say 6 at idle, to 12 under boost.

Where as to manifold vac, it would be say 3 at idle, 6 at zero vacuum, and then 12 etc.

Depends on your current vacuum at idle, (camshaft), and how much boost you are running.

You could also reference the regulator T'eed with an adjustable bleed to the carb hat, then can you dial up what your fuel pressure curve is separately to boost.

Gary

RedHawk · #4 (**permalink**) 07-08-2018, 08:11 PM

Took your advise and taped the carb hat and ran a hose to the regulator pressure relief valve. also fabed up better intake filter.and routed it away from the headers and valve cover.

I also notice car was running rich so checked all the plugs and confirmed that suspicion. Looked at gap which was .035 and did some research and consulted Torqstorm. They agreed with my finding to closethe gap to the .028-.030 range. Then once cleaned up it mat require a slightly colder plug. Still need to adjust timing too but somewhat tricky. Anyone have experience with remote timing system that doesn't involve adjusting distributor and using timing gun.??
Only because due to tighter space its more challenging to get to damper to hit with timing gun.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gaz64

I would think about adding a fuel pressure gauge, just for testing, in the cabin.

The reg could be referenced to the hat, so fuel pressure would be say 6 at idle, to 12 under boost.

Where as to manifold vac, it would be say 3 at idle, 6 at zero vacuum, and then 12 etc.

Depends on your current vacuum at idle, (camshaft), and how much boost you are running.

You could also reference the regulator T'eed with an adjustable bleed to the carb hat, then can you dial up what your fuel pressure curve is separately to boost.

Gary

Gaz64 · #5 (**permalink**) 07-09-2018, 08:19 PM

Your ignition is MSD?

You could use one of these:

https://www.msdperformance.com/produ...ols/parts/8762

RedHawk · #6 (**permalink**) 07-10-2018, 12:21 PM

Yes that should do it. Thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gaz64

Your ignition is MSD?

You could use one of these:

https://www.msdperformance.com/produ...ols/parts/8762

cycleguy55 · #7 (**permalink**) 07-09-2018, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gaz64

I would think about adding a fuel pressure gauge, just for testing, in the cabin.

The reg could be referenced to the hat, so fuel pressure would be say 6 at idle, to 12 under boost.

Where as to manifold vac, it would be say 3 at idle, 6 at zero vacuum, and then 12 etc.

Depends on your current vacuum at idle, (camshaft), and how much boost you are running.

You could also reference the regulator T'eed with an adjustable bleed to the carb hat, then can you dial up what your fuel pressure curve is separately to boost.

Gary

For safety, any fuel pressure gauge in the cabin can be either electrical or mechanical. If the latter it s/b connected through an isolator so there's no gasoline in the cabin if a line leaks.

Isolators: https://www.summitracing.com/int/sea...sure-isolators

RedHawk · #8 (**permalink**) 07-10-2018, 12:59 PM

Any particular one you recommend?

Quote:

Originally Posted by cycleguy55

For safety, any fuel pressure gauge in the cabin can be either electrical or mechanical. If the latter it s/b connected through an isolator so there's no gasoline in the cabin if a line leaks.

Isolators: https://www.summitracing.com/int/sea...sure-isolators

Gaz64 · #9 (**permalink**) 07-10-2018, 09:53 PM

I like the Autometer electric stepper motor fuel pressure gauges.

https://www.autometer.com/gauges/ult...ofile=products

Not cheap, but you get what you pay for.

cycleguy55 · #10 (**permalink**) 07-11-2018, 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedHawk

Any particular one you recommend?

I have an Autometer mechanical with an isolator. It worked fine until I had to disconnect, then re-connect the tube from the gauge to the isolator. Since then the readings have been a bit erratic. It looks like I'm going to have to sort out what I did wrong and re-do the d**m thing.