The ERA Slabside Q and A Thread

[dacobb]

Originally Posted by LMH

It’s totally personal preference but we’ve found the Michelin XWX 215/70-15 to be about the best looking tire and best performer on the market! Its not a white wall but it’s profile and tread pattern look “right” and I think you’d find it’s what most original owners use on their cars.
Larry

Will that 215/70 fit within the slabside wheel well?

Damn those things are $350 each.

[LMH]

Originally Posted by dacobb

Will that 215/70 fit within the slabside wheel well?

Damn those things are $350 each.

I don’t know about an ERA but that photo I posted is an original car. I’ve also seen 205’s used though I think the slightly bigger tire looks better.

Yes, they are expensive but with small block cars, you got to pay if you want to play!
Larry

[1985 CCX]

Street dash
ERA rear end package
Leather seats
Full street wire wheel.
No stripes......

[DanEC]

You might talk to Diamondback Tires. I don't see a tire exactly like you are describing but they custom stripe a lot of their tires on current, quality radial tire casings. They might be able to put together what you want. They have a good reputation.

[dacobb]

Originally Posted by DanEC

You might talk to Diamondback Tires. I don't see a tire exactly like you are describing but they custom stripe a lot of their tires on current, quality radial tire casings. They might be able to put together what you want. They have a good reputation.

Thanks I will check them out.

[dacobb]

Would red line tires look stupid on a Slabside?

I'm thinking...probably.

But maybe not.

[LMH]

Larry

[xb-60]

Another tyre that might be worth considering is the Pirelli Cinturato P5 in a 225/65R15 size.
Might just be a little too wide (appearance-wise) on a 289 Cobra. I do however have them on my Alfa in that size on 6" wide rims and they work well. They are an excellent tyre for grip - and quite anomalous - very long lasting too.

Cheers!
Glen

[desgros@vtlink.]

Larry,

Just like the tires on my Slabside.

John
ERA Slabside #3010 289 BRG

[dacobb]

So...today's topic is the undercar exhaust. Peter sent me a few pics; you can see them in my build album.

Those of you who have done this - where are the tabs welded to the pipe. And did you get the exhaust ceramic coated, if so by whom.

And what is the ground clearance.

[fintubi]

I installed 215/70-15 XWX on ERA3014 two weeks ago. They definitely fit in the wheel wells and look great.

The exhaust will be tight. I started the car for the first time last weekend with abbreviated undercar exhaust: I put turndowns immediately aft of the mufflers so I can get the car to an exhaust shop for installation of the over-axle section and associated hangers. So I still may have some difficulty ahead when my exhaust guy tries to do this. But Peter assures me it's been done before with 215s.

Photo: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...NZQWNyY3k0MGRR

[desgros@vtlink.]

215-70R X15's do fit as I have them on my ERA Slabside. They fill the wheel well nicely and with 6X15 Dunlap wheels enhance the handling.







John
ERA #3010 Slabside 289 BRG

[dacobb]

Originally Posted by desgros@vtlink.

215-70R X15's do fit as I have them on my ERA Slabside. They fill the wheel well nicely and with 6X15 Dunlap wheels enhance the handling.







John
ERA #3010 Slabside 289 BRG

how are the Dunlop wheels?

[Mark IV]

These work as well: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mtt-6023

[desgros@vtlink.]

dacobb,

Very pleased with the Dunlaps. They are holding up well and continue to look good after five years.

John
ERA #3010 Slabside 289 BRG

[LMH]

It was fairly common on original cars to exit the exhaust in front of the rear wheels on cars equipped with anti-sway bars. Just an FYI.
Larry

[DanEC]

My undercar exhaust car is a 427 so not much will apply, but the frame rails are 4 inches deep. On my car, the way the headers and the collector pipe were fabricated I ended up with about 1-1/4" clearance to the floor with a 3" deep muffler. That put the bottom of the muffler about 1/4" to 1/2" below the frame. As you can see in this photo, the diameter or the pipe you use and the out rigger brackets limit how high the mufflers can be sucked up. I probably would not want the muffler any closer to the floor.




Most mufflers are 4" diameter so the average muffler would be about 1/2" lower than mine and they are pretty visible from the side. If round glass pack type mufflers are used they would be a little less visible under the rocker.

[fintubi]

I'm in the midst of dealing with this on 3014. Here's what I've accomplished/learned so far:

1. My kit came with the following parts:

- 2x headers
- 2x J-shaped pipes connecting the header collectors to the muffler inlets
- 2x Dynomax 17762 mufflers with clamps
- 2x J-shaped pipes from muffler outlets to tailpipes
- 2x tailpipes, including the "hump" over the rear axle
- 4x weld-on tabs to connect header collectors to the J-pipes
- 2x weld-on hangers for the pipes aft of the mufflers under the rocker panels
- 2x weld-on hangers for the pipes at the apex of the hump over the rear axle
- 2x weld-on hangers for the tailpipes as they exit to either side of the spare tire well

The frame is already drilled for the first and second hangers. The third hangers (next to spare tire well) need tapped holes; so I called ERA and they supplied a pair of rivet nuts that can be drilled/expanded into the frame tubing at the appropriate spot.


2. I dry-fitted the system on the car and cut the header collectors and J-pipe outlets to get the mufflers to land in the right place. The collector length determines how low the part of the system under the rocker panels sits; and the J-pipe length sets the fore-and-aft position of the muffler. It required a fair amount of cutting of the collectors to get the bottom surfaces of the J-pipes and mufflers roughly flush with the bottom of the frame rails. I don't think the dry-fit photos (linked below) show the system tucked quite as high as I eventually got it. My exhaust isn't significantly lower than frame rails or oil pan at any point.

3. I marked the location of the header tabs on the headers and J-pipes, had them tack-welded at a shop, double-checked the fit at home, and then had them final-welded at the same shop.

4. Since no further welding was needed on everything up to and including the mufflers, I had these parts ceramic coated by Accessories Plus, a local shop.

5. I've installed everything up to the mufflers on the car so it is driveable (muffler outlet wired up).

6. I'm taking the car to a local shop this week to have the following done:

- weld on the hangers under the rockers. These are the first support for the system after the cylinder heads. Dan at ERA says these can screw into either the frame outrigger immediately aft of the mufflers, or the next one back (immediately forward of the wheel well).

- weld the connection between the muffler outlet pipe and the tailpipe. This joint is in the corner of the wheel well; Dan says there is likely not enough space for a clamp and I believe him.

- weld the hanger onto the tailpipe at the apex of the hump over the axle

- weld the hangers onto the tailpipe where it hangs under the frame by the spare tire well. I have not installed the nutserts for these hangers yet since the location isn't set yet. Since the frame rail is running at a downward angle here, a small error in hole location means a large error in fit between the hanger and pipe.

7. If all goes well, I'll remove the back half of the system and have it coated to match the front.

I'll let you know how I make out. The first shop I took it to for this work chickened out.

This photo and the ones following it show my dry-fitting exercise:

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...NZQWNyY3k0MGRR

Bill

[dacobb]

thanks fin that's exactly the info I was looking for.

also Dan, I am considering a move to arkansas as a retirement spot (someday)

which towns/cities do you recommend?

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by dacobb

And so...to follow up, did anyone get their exhaust ceramic coated.

I've chatted with Jet Hot. They seem to be legit.

I had my headers, collectors and mufflers ceramic coated. I had the tailpipes fabricated locally and I just sprayed them with a heat resistant satin black. But the place I used stop doing customer work shortly afterward and went commercial for manufacturers.

Originally Posted by dacobb

thanks fin that's exactly the info I was looking for.

also Dan, I am considering a move to arkansas as a retirement spot (someday)

which towns/cities do you recommend?

Tough question as Arkansas has a lot of variety and sort of depends on your outdoor interests. One place I wouldn't recommend is Little Rock proper, although the western suburbs are nice (and expensive). Also the communities (Benton & Bryant) south of Little Rock along I30 are popular. North of the river is good, Maumelle, generally the hot spot. If you like golf, Hot Springs Village and the NW part of the state up by Bentonville and Springdale are well known and popular with retirees. The Walmart community pretty much dominates the area. If trout fishing is an interest then around any of the communities near the big lakes on the White River or Little Red River in the northern half of the state are really popular. Bass fishing is just about all over. Hunting is just about the whole state. Best driving roads are probably NW quadrant of the state and down through the Ouachita mountains and Hot Springs area. Fort Smith has a lot of interesting places around it and a lot of history. In general the norther part of the State is known as a retirees magnet. The far eastern part of the State along the Mississippi is delta land and most areas are somewhat depressed and pretty open prairie/farming. Probably leaving some good stuff out.


Good luck.