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Kirkham Motorsports

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Old 03-26-2020, 05:22 PM
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This has done me good for 15 years. That cap tube is running to an old Smiths mechanical oil temp gauge.

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Old 03-26-2020, 05:54 PM
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Patricks car above is a good example.

The sender gets doused with hot oil leaving the crank,cam,heads draining etc BEFORE the oil gets a chance to be cooled off in the pan.

Reading near the bottom of the pan is as cool as the oil could get prior to the oil being picked up again by the oil pump.

Just like a coolant temp sender is fitted at the hottest part of the engine prior to the coolant going to the radiator, the oil temp sender is best located as like Patricks or my case as above.
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Old 03-26-2020, 06:00 PM
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It would absolutely never occur to me, when diagnosing funky oil and water temperature changes, to look and see if the gauges were switched. I would have to pull one of the senders out and pop it in a pot of boiling water. Then, when I looked at the dash, I would start laughing. That's one of those goofy stories you put in a car magazine, which I haven't actually seen in years now.
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Old 03-27-2020, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
It would absolutely never occur to me, when diagnosing funky oil and water temperature changes, to look and see if the gauges were switched. I would have to pull one of the senders out and pop it in a pot of boiling water. Then, when I looked at the dash, I would start laughing. That's one of those goofy stories you put in a car magazine, which I haven't actually seen in years now.
It never occurred to me either basically because the gauge was working normally except for taking a little longer to come up to temperature than I thought was normal, and only got real hot when I went above 3000RPM so I was thinking I had an engine problem. As soon as I bought the speed down to 3000 RPM or lower, the temp would come back down to 180 deg
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Old 03-27-2020, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaz64 View Post
Patricks car above is a good example.

The sender gets doused with hot oil leaving the crank,cam,heads draining etc BEFORE the oil gets a chance to be cooled off in the pan.

Reading near the bottom of the pan is as cool as the oil could get prior to the oil being picked up again by the oil pump.

Just like a coolant temp sender is fitted at the hottest part of the engine prior to the coolant going to the radiator, the oil temp sender is best located as like Patricks or my case as above.
As noted here ( https://www.460ford.com/threads/gpm-...38/post-833782 ) the standard volume Ford 460 oil pump is rated at 19 GPM - that's 76 quarts PER MINUTE - presumably at highest RPM. At that rate an 8 quart pan will have it's oil replaced 9+ times per minute, but obviously fewer times at lower RPM. I suspect FE and Windsor engines aren't that much different.

Whether bypassed to the pan or pumped into the engine, the rate of flow in the oil pan will ensure any cooling in the pan is minimal. We don't need to worry about whether the oil temperature is off by fractions of a degree, which is the likely effect of such cooling at those flow rates.

My temperature sender is in the lower front wall of the pan - I'm not in the least bit concerned about how accurate it is.
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Old 03-27-2020, 12:06 PM
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Whether bypassed to the pan or pumped into the engine, the rate of flow in the oil pan will ensure any cooling in the pan is minimal. We don't need to worry about whether the oil temperature is off by fractions of a degree, which is the likely effect of such cooling at those flow rates.

My temperature sender is in the lower front wall of the pan - I'm not in the least bit concerned about how accurate it is.
I would say any oil temperature gauge is better than one that is plumbed in to the coolant system.
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