Bumping this old thread, regarding creating a proper curved saddle 12DL jack.
I found a 12DL with the L shaped saddle and a broken handle socket. I felt confident that I could get a new pivot off of another model, a cheap 10DL - I haven't received that yet - so the jury is still partially out, but I expect it will work.
I wasn't happy about the notion of prying/grinding the L-saddle off the inner screw and then restaking the proper curved saddle in its place. So I used a different approach that has turned out well:
1. I obtained an inexpensive Shelley 6 inch jack. This has the proper curved saddle. I guessed that the inner screw would be the same thread as the 12DL. It is. I removed the inner screw from the "6 inch" by partially unstaking it on the bottom of the screw and then winding the screw up and out - importantly without removing the saddle.
2. I removed the double screw mechanism, from the bottom of the 12DL by grinding/prying the L saddle off. The normal procedure. This allows removal of the internal screw out through the bottom.
3. I cut 1/2" off the bottom of the "6 inch" internal screw (with intact curved saddle). This makes it the same length as the original 12DL internal screw.
4. I then threaded the shortened "6 inch" internal screw with curved saddle through the top of the 12DL outer screw.
Result: An original, factory secured, intact curved saddle on the 12DL. No workarounds (milling counterbores/spacers/screws) or blunt force staking required. Clean factory finish to the top of the curved saddle.
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