Seat Belt / Harness upgrade

[FatBoy]

This is the bracket I made up for mounting passenger side shoulder harnesses:





I also considered the relative merits of whether or not to have passenger side harnesses, but I considered that there was far move chance of an accident in which harnesses would save injury compared to the very rare chance of a roll-over where they could potentially cause injury.

Paul

[twobjshelbys]

Originally Posted by FatBoy

This is the bracket I made up for mounting passenger side shoulder harnesses:





I also considered the relative merits of whether or not to have passenger side harnesses, but I considered that there was far move chance of an accident in which harnesses would save injury compared to the very rare chance of a roll-over where they could potentially cause injury.

Paul

Thank you!

The frame member that you attached to in the CSX cars is round, and only about 1.4" in diameter. It is this member that I doubt is capable of handling the thrust G load of a front crash. That is why I'm reluctant to connect to it. It will be weakened significantly if drilled. The bracket around the frame may help some, but I don't think the mechanical setup shown is any better. I'm also very reluctant to cut into the back wall there since there is carpeting on both sides.

One possible compromise is to do a hybrid - connect the harnesses to a rigid frame member, either the seat belt bolts or something in the rear - I haven't looked, and then pass them through or over the frame member shown above. This provides a solid anchor point, with the tubing shown and the trunk/passenger compartment wall being sacrificial. In this case it will absorb and direct some of the energy, whereas the solid anchor points take the brunt of it.

The merit discussion is the dilemma. I too believe that the pros outweigh the cons. I've discussed this with my wife and will be doing something like this, but don't know what. Meanwhile, bad as they are, the shoulders will go back to the floor, and tall riders will be advised against their use.

Still need to find an anchor point for the sub belt.

[DANGER]

http://www.superformance.com/mkiii/m...ssis_front.jpg

http://www.superformance.com/mkiii/m...assis_rear.jpg

Here are the links to the SPF chassis you can see how much larger the cross frame support is and in the rear shot the pre-drilled holes.

But than not all are SPF chassis..

[mickmate]

The rear hoop in the CSX is 1.25" diameter heavy wall tube. It is better supported in the frame work of these cars than the rollbar. There are triangulated tubes holding it in, out, back and forth. It is the strongest place and best height to attach shoulder straps to in these cars. The sub strap could be attached with a plate between the front seat bolts but by the time it is beefy enough it will start increasing bolt sizes and get bulky enough to change seat height at the front. I installed one on the channel for the side pipe hangers. It is a C Channel shape welded between the main and the outer frame rails.

[FatBoy]

You don't need to drill the cros-brace in order to use it as a seat belt anchorage. If you look at the above picture from the inside of the trunk, you will see that the bracket simply straddles the tube. A flat plate is then bolted to the bracket from the front side of the bulkhead and the seat belt anchor point bolt to the bracket and not the cross brace.

There is an odd irony that a replica (Kirkham) is more "original" in this respect than a CSX car.
However, I assume the change to thick-walled round tube was done for a reason and it may well be stronger than the original style square tube. I don't believe there will be any problem with mounting the shoulder harnesses to the cross brace tube. Bare in mind that the mounting is very close to one end and not in the middle where it would possibly bend.

With regard to the crotch strap, Kirkham use a "V" belt with 2 mounting points that bolt under each front seat mounting.

Paul

[mickmate]

The aluminum bodied cars are without doubt more original in that they have a birdcage to support the edges of the thin aluminum bodies. The Shelby frames for a glass car have a stronger body and a stronger frame in that area even incorporating side intrusion bars.

[twobjshelbys]

Well, I got them yesterday and started installing. All of the belts are too long and I'd rather not have excess flopping around. Is there a good way to trim the excess length? They use some sort of heat cutter so the ends won't fray but I don't have one of those. I suppose the old cigarette lighter would work but some of these are exposed.

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by twobjshelbys

I suppose the old cigarette lighter would work but some of these are exposed.

Melt them with a soldiering iron?

[Blas]

Just use a blow torch, butane lighter or your kitchen gas stove...carefully

[FatBoy]

Originally Posted by mickmate

The aluminum bodied cars are without doubt more original in that they have a birdcage to support the edges of the thin aluminum bodies. The Shelby frames for a glass car have a stronger body and a stronger frame in that area even incorporating side intrusion bars.

My mistake. It didn't occur to me that they might by GRP bodied cars.

[mickmate]

No worries except

This is a HST manufactured carbon fiber roller.

[razerwire]

looks like glass car and alum car is different behind seats. Round frame members are exposed in alum car. Just put 6 point harness in car. Two points for shoulder to frame behind seat, lap belt to floor, crotch strap goes to same point as lap belts. When you get in car you sit on two crotch straps( looks like v) then put one shoulder strap, then crotch strap, next last shoulder strap, last hook seat belt to the first seat belt you hooked rest of belts to and pull tight. Simpson has pictures on web site.