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Kirkham Motorsports

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Old 06-08-2010, 04:50 PM
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Default What type/model carb(s) are you using?

Seeing all the carb problems popping up (no pun intended) and issues with carb tuning (my own included), What carb or carbs are you using and what are their advantages and/or disadvantages?
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Old 06-08-2010, 05:01 PM
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I'm using Holley 660 CFM carb's with center squirters and mechanical secondaries.

While mine do work well, I would not recommend them unless you have someone with a dyno, and a lot of experience to work on them.
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Old 06-08-2010, 05:28 PM
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Since I am running a 351W with Price dual quad intake which is set up for cruising rather than racing, I chose a pair of Holley #8007 390 cfm carbs. I enrichened the primary jets by 2 numbers, no other modifications made. Personally, I like the way they perform as I prefer vacuum secondaries over mechanical.
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Old 06-08-2010, 05:33 PM
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Holley 4160 model R80508 (750 CFM single pumper) on a 351W - Electric choke, vacuum secondaries. No issues for 10 years.

Bob

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Old 06-08-2010, 05:36 PM
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Holley 4160 3310 on my FE. 750 CFM, vacuum secondaries, about as easy to tune as carbs get. I am considering putting on an original Holley 3255 with Lemans bowls, but I am hoping for a better experience than Elmariachi had...
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Old 06-08-2010, 10:15 PM
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I have a Holley 3255-1 LeMans and am now in therapy.
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Old 06-09-2010, 06:07 AM
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Doug, why don't you just put the LeMans bowls on the 3310?
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Old 06-09-2010, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovehamr View Post
Doug, why don't you just put the LeMans bowls on the 3310?
Originality. I wouldn't want to do it only part way if I am going to do it. I even prefer to have a date code original rather than a repop from Holley which are essentially exactly the same other than the repop only has the model and list numbers and not the date code.

I might be coming a bit obsessive...

Sort of like Rodknock and his Hallibrands.
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Old 06-09-2010, 07:17 AM
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Quote:
Doug, why don't you just put the LeMans bowls on the 3310?
Yep, that's what I did! I took a 1850 600cfm and put LeMans bowls on it! Now of course if you look at the id number you can tell but it looks and acts the part! The only people that even know what it is, is a real Shelby nut! Most people think it's a bogus Holley or Quadrajet... My buddy races a 65 Shelby with a 750 double pumper with LeMans bowls too. He just uses two bowls with accelerator pumps. Works REALLY well and totally fits his period correct car! Carl's ford has them ready to go. Matt
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Old 06-09-2010, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcdoug View Post
Originality. I wouldn't want to do it only part way if I am going to do it. I even prefer to have a date code original rather than a repop from Holley which are essentially exactly the same other than the repop only has the model and list numbers and not the date code.

I might be coming a bit obsessive...

Sort of like Rodknock and his Hallibrands.
Uh, if you're looking at date coded original carbs with lemans bowls, then I think you're a little further right on "the spectrum."
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Old 06-09-2010, 10:58 AM
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Fussed with an 850 Holley for way too long before settling on a Barry Grant Mighty Demon 650 cfm. Modified the jetting and added jet extensions. Works absolutely great on my 418W. Gave up 15 hp at the top end for 19lbs torque in mid range with this setup.
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Old 06-09-2010, 12:15 PM
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BEFORE Le Mans bowl carb's, in 65 or so, Holley did not have any center pivot floats.

Jump ahead to today. Holley center pivot floats of an entirely new design are readily available. The center pivot concept is specifically for addressing the needs of road racing G forces acting on the fuel bowl level. "Off roaders" whose vehicle may be subject to extreme angles would also benefit from this.

Problem for some of us is, you can't run ANY center pivot float on a dual four intake manifold without clearance issues between the two carbs. I've run three different Holley carbs on my dual intake, they ALL had the same problem: Float level to high or to low under extreme cornering conditions. None of them was center pivot of course.

I'm not sure anyone makes a side pivot float carb designed for road racing, or off road use, that will fit on a dual carb intake? If so, I'd buy 'em!!! I can't find anything that works well for auto cross on a dual intake. And I've spent a bunch of money trying, did a bunch of modifications, it aint working.
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Old 06-09-2010, 01:15 PM
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I run a Holley 850,modified to 930 CFM by BoLaws.The choke horn is milled off and I'm running 83 jets all around.
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Old 06-09-2010, 03:21 PM
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I'm running a pair of custom built QuickFuel 750s built expressly for my 482 setting on a ported and shaved Dove Tunnel Wedge. First time with them on the chassis dyno and AFR was 12.5 @ WOT. They work PERFECT.

Notice the stainless steel intake manifold "stud kit". No more stripped out aluminum head threaded intake manifold bolt holes.

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Old 06-09-2010, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
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I'm running a pair of custom built QuickFuel 750s built expressly for my 482 setting on a ported and shaved Dove Tunnel Wedge. First time with them on the chassis dyno and AFR was 12.5 @ WOT. They work PERFECT.
Dave, How far do the secondarys open at WOT on your 482? What are the cam specs and valve sizes?
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Old 06-09-2010, 06:31 PM
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...and don't forget to list the jet sizes if you remember!

That tunnel port dual quad looks tight man, (in more ways than one).
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Old 06-09-2010, 07:17 PM
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Pro Systems 1060 CFM on Roush 427R single plane intake.

Highly recommend
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Old 06-09-2010, 08:57 PM
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I've got a Bigs Stage 5 Double Pumper 750 CFM. No choke, no problems. I think the key is when you buy the carb, you tell them what kind of engine and they set it up to run out of the box.
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Old 06-10-2010, 03:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA Chas View Post
Dave, How far do the secondarys open at WOT on your 482? What are the cam specs and valve sizes?
On the chassis dyno they were 100% open by the end of the pull. On the street (not track) I probably don't have enough road to keep my foot in it long enough to get them both open, at least without fear of incarceration. I'm running Blue Thunder's re-pop version of the OEM progressive linkage. Acceleration through the RPM band is very linear with no flat spots or bogs, overall I'm very pleased.

The cam is a KC/Comp Cams hydraulic roller, 242/248 w/ .644 int, .633 exh

The cam's pretty tame as I can cruise at 1300/1400 RPMs w/no bogging or bucking. The idle's a different story, a bit radical (as I like it).

2.19" intake with 1.76" exhaust on the valve sizes... KC's stage II Ebok heads.
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Last edited by undy; 06-10-2010 at 03:45 AM.. Reason: added info
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Old 06-10-2010, 03:37 AM
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Quote:
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...and don't forget to list the jet sizes if you remember!

That tunnel port dual quad looks tight man, (in more ways than one).
Off the build sheet...

pump nozzles: 31

boosters: 45206-1

booster pin size: 160

high speed bleed: .033

idle air bleeds: primary = 76, secondary = 36

main jets: primary = 76, secondary = 84

power valve: 4.5

power valve channel rest.: .055

emulsion and stages: .032/.028/.028

kill bleed: primary = .028, secondary = .028

idle feed restriction: primary = .033, secondary = .039

cross channel: primary = 144, secondary = 144

needle and seat: primary = 10, secondary = 110

float type: nitro

accelerator pump: 30cc

accelerator pump cam: orange


Talk about large/straight ports on the TW... You can see the top and stem of every intake valve along with the valve guides from the intake's carb pads. It's a real straight shot to the valve for the intake air/fuel charge. The intake is no taller than an Ebok RPM so it fits under the hood nicely.
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