Roush Engine Failure – Pictures

[N2VENOM]

“This thread is not intended to bash Roush” I need assistance dealing with this problem.

My Roush 451FE with 2300 miles has a rocker arm shaft that broke in two. The nut securing the shaft next to the oil galley rocker came off.

This caused the shaft to bend and brake.

The engine is just over the 2 year warranty and there could be internal damage as well. I called roush 2 times and sent an email, no response.
Question – Is the nut not being torqued a manufacture defect?
Question- With only 2300 miles on a $23K engine should roush be responsible for parts and labor?
Any ideas would be appreciated. Peace, Darren

[Got the Bug]

Who did you buy the engine from? A Roush dealer or an installer? Get them involved ASAP.

[RodKnock]

Darren, I have a question. Did you or any mechanic do any maintenance on the engine during the 2+ years and 2,300 miles that you owned it? Or, was the engine completely buttoned up the entire time.

My perspective is that: a) an engine should be checked at least once after about the first 500-1,000 miles and probably every 1,000 +/- miles thereafter and b) these are high performance engines and a two year warranty is a two year warranty.

Having said that, I think I've read threads where Roush has helped folks with broken engines after the warranty period.

It's very unfortunate and I wish you the best of luck getting your car back on the road ASAP.

[N2VENOM]

I purchased from Hillbank Motorsports, Irvine Ca. in 2007. I called this AM. They were helpful, but told me to call Roush. Again......

Rodknock, "I have a question. Did you or any mechanic do any maintenance on the engine during the 2+ years and 2,300 miles that you owned it? Or, was the engine completely buttoned up the entire time."

It was buttoned up the entire time.. Lesson learned. Thanks

[Got the Bug]

Originally Posted by N2VENOM

I purchased from Hillbank Motorsports, Irvine Ca. in 2007. I called this AM. They were helpful, but told me to call Roush. Again......

Rodknock, "I have a question. Did you or any mechanic do any maintenance on the engine during the 2+ years and 2,300 miles that you owned it? Or, was the engine completely buttoned up the entire time."

It was buttoned up the entire time.. Lesson learned. Thanks

Did you do the install or was the motor already installed? I would recommend that you get Lance from Hillbank involved. Roush moves slowly, but they do have a track record of standing behind their product.

I had an issue with my Roush motor (that was also slightly out of warranty) and they paid for all parts and labor. If you send me an email, I'll forward the PDF of the Roush warranty claim form so you can kick off the process.

Also, don't proceed with any tear down or repairs until you get Roush involved.

[SP01715]

Originally Posted by N2VENOM

I purchased from Hillbank Motorsports, Irvine Ca. in 2007. I called this AM. They were helpful, but told me to call Roush. Again......

Rodknock, "I have a question. Did you or any mechanic do any maintenance on the engine during the 2+ years and 2,300 miles that you owned it? Or, was the engine completely buttoned up the entire time."

It was buttoned up the entire time.. Lesson learned. Thanks

Talk to Lance. He has always been very helpful to me, and has direct numbers for people at Roush.

Edit: I guess you have resolved the issue. Good luck.

[Woodz428]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

My perspective is that: a) an engine should be checked at least once after about the first 500-1,000 miles and probably every 1,000 +/- miles thereafter and b) these are high performance engines and a two year warranty is a two year warranty.

I always tell my customers to do the same. As much to check up on torques and workmanship, but to also to possibly prevent some damage from some part that is failing. I don't know the repair scenario, but I would have had all the hardware that is accessible( and that would include under the VC's) re-torqued.
Now as for Roush, because of no knowledge of what maintenance was performed in the time it was running, I can only say I have had excellent customer service from them. I would imagine they are stilll operating that way.

[Marvin]

All I know is if I need to check and re-torque all the fastners on my 428 fe, solid lifter flat tappet engine after every 1000 mi it will have a new owner because I would rather drive it than wrench on it.

It is a five year old engine with 7500 mi big solid cam 10.6 c.r. and has had the valves adjusted once [last year] .
No trouble with this maint. but will check with builder to see if needs something more, my plan was to think about freshning at about ten years and 20000 mi?

[RodKnock]

I'm curious, do you know what brand of rocker arm assembly your Roush engine has installed?

I'm very, very far from being a mechanic, but did/do your rocker arms have locks on them?

[Got the Bug]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

I'm curious, do you know what brand of rocker arm assembly your Roush engine has installed?

I'm very, very far from being a mechanic, but did/do your rocker arms have locks on them?

The specs on the Roush site indicate that they use Harland Sharp shaft style rocker arms.

http://www.harlandsharp.com/styles.htm

[grybrd123]

Hi Darren:

You should call Roush Warranty at 800 597-6874, push 1, then 3. They are not very good at returning phone calls in a timely way, but they will respond eventually - keep calling them. My 402R has had several issues taken care of by them under warranty. I realize your motor is out of warranty, but it should be noted that if a Roush engine is opened without their permission it may invalidate the warranty, so the suggestion that it's a good idea to pull the valve covers and check may not be a good idea without permission from them in writing.

If you don't get any satisfaction from the Warranty guys, I can provide Jack Roush's mailing address if you want to go up the line with this. This certainly should NOT have happened.

grybrd

[Bxx1]

You have a PM.

[ItBites]

$23K??? Wow, the Roush name sure carries a premium!

This is likely the result of improper (low) torque on the nut, which allowed it to back-off and then the shaft snapped due to excessive deflection at the stress-riser (hole). In-spite of many 'experts' guidance your may recieve, including those from Roush, a properly torqued fastener will not back-off in this application. If they did, we'd never keep main caps attached to blocks or head bolts in heads. This has all the signs of improper assembly.

[Marvin]

That cannot be correct.
That is you pay that much for an engine and you should check fastners every 1,000 mi, where did that come from?

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Marvin

That cannot be correct.
That is you pay that much for an engine and you should check fastners every 1,000 mi, where did that come from?

Agreed. I have never heard of a requirement that you re-torque your valve train. If you have hydraulic lifters, you almost never pull your covers off period.

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Agreed. I have never heard of a requirement that you re-torque your valve train.

But it is something that you recommended I check when I did my lash last year, which of course I did....

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by dcdoug

But it is something that you recommended I check when I did my lash last year, which of course I did....

You have solid lifters, so you have to remove your covers. And, you had the four bolts right there in front of your nose. And, you had a torque wrench in your hand. Brent, Barry, and Keith can all correct me if I'm wrong, but I would venture to say that none of them ships off an engine with a note that says "please re-torque your valve train after 1000 miles."

[RodKnock]

You guys need to read better. It's not a requirement, but a suggestion from ME and I'm more anal than most. Don't check your hydraulic roller cam, no skin off my back. I don't care.

Harland Sharps are good rocker arms, I haven't heard about them having many problems.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

Harland Sharps are good rocker arms, I haven't heard about them having many problems.

Well, even though it's a little late, he might want to pull the valve cover on the other head and check the torque on the fasteners over there. If one or more of them were obviously loose....

[RodKnock]

I don't think the OP is supposed to even touch his engine until he hears something from Roush.

Personally, after about 1,000 +/- miles on a brand new $20K +/- all aluminum FE, I would be spend the time and/or money to have the engine, headers and the rest of the car re-torqued and re-tightened.

Maybe even change the oil with a good oil filter that has a micron rating of around 25.