Smith's temp gauge question

RestoCreations · #1 (**permalink**) 05-13-2012, 10:25 AM

My temp gauge stopped working yesterday, so decided to take a look and see why. I removed the capillary tube from the intake and not realizing the tube was soldered in place, decided to heat it up with a torch so i could see if the gauge would move when heat was applied directly to the tube. Well guess what... the capillary tube flew off once the torch melted the solder. I just read that the capillary tube was filled with ether and that once it is punctured or the seal is broken, the whole unit must be replaced.
Here is my question...is there not some way that i can make this gauge work without the capillary tube filled with ether? Probably not, but i thought i would ask anyway. Should have gone with electrical gauges-doh!

Thanks

Grubby · #2 (**permalink**) 05-13-2012, 10:31 AM

My Smiths oil temp gauge recently failed. Nisonger told me it could be rebuilt, but the cost was within $5 of new.

You might want to call Nisonger and confirm.

John

TN Shelby Cobra · #3 (**permalink**) 05-13-2012, 10:34 AM

Mine went bad also! Smiths Cobra Speedometers, Tachometers, Small Gauges and Clocks for Sale I had one shipped to me for $ 150.00. Mark

RestoCreations · #4 (**permalink**) 05-13-2012, 10:49 AM

-My car is going to Mecum this week and unfortunately i am out of time. I have no idea why the gauge would suddenly fail, but im going to take a wild guess and say that i must have kinked the line when reinstalling the sending unit after moving it from one location on the intake to another.
-How in the world do they put ether gas into the tube and then seal it by soldering? Im really perplexed as to how they seal the tube enough to get the gas to remain and also how the gas doesnt combust when they are soldering the tube onto the fitting.
-If only there was a way to convert the gauge to read off of an electrical sending unit mounted in the block.

I might have to just swap everything out to autometer. I can get a full set here in a day and do a quick swap. I hate to do that, but it might be my only option. I cant sell the car with items that arent working.

Blas · #5 (**permalink**) 05-13-2012, 11:24 AM

The gas can be inserted in the end bulb frozen as a liquid and the line would be evecuated of air, then the final solder done at the gauge end of the tube. They can be repaired but replacement is the best option. I have one available from a new chassis that had shelby gauges installed at delivery. But we are a long way from each other. Perhaps just purchase a new unit and put it in the trunk.

Pman1961 · #6 (**permalink**) 05-13-2012, 02:49 PM

That may explain what happened to my temperature guage. During the engine swap and some redoing of the fitting of the intake I noticed the probe was difficult putting in or taking out of the fitting. There was a blob of soldier that I filed down. Temperature gauge began reading low then nothing at all. My guess there was a tiny leak and I ruined it. That sucks but not as bad as a polyester blanket falling on my newly coated sidepipes melting and then removing some of the finish. Expensive year for ah oohs...

mickmate · #7 (**permalink**) 05-13-2012, 06:52 PM

The link TN posted shows the electric temp gauge. They are easy to replace one with another. The gauges have a completely different look and sweep. They are the right style and don't look out of place, just different. The capillary tube mechanical gauges should be handled as the fragile tube they are. A twist or kink buggers them up. They also like a flex loop between motor and body where they might be constantly flexing from motor torque.

flipscobra · #8 (**permalink**) 05-13-2012, 10:27 PM

You can repair the gauge by buying a cheap mechanical gaugean splicing it on the old gauge. Before you cut the bulb off put the bulb in a cold water an ice solution, where it draws the either into the bulb. You have to make a joint so 1 line will slip into the other. Then take sodering gun an soder the joint, make sure you keep the bulb in the ice solution the whole time, It will cost you about 20.00 to fix. Look up the fix on a 33 plymouth, it will tell you exactually, how its done Hope this helps

RestoCreations · #9 (**permalink**) 05-14-2012, 08:01 AM

Ummm, the bulb shot off yesterday when i was heating it up to see if the gauge worked.

Luckily, i had just pointed it away from body.

UPDATE: For some reason the temp gauge is working without the probe attached. There is a pocket of air where the wire sits inside the threaded fitting in the intake and i suppose that the air pocket is being filled with gases from the hot antifreeze and that is making the gauge work. I checked the reading on the engine with my infrared gun and compared it to the gauge and it's accurate. Go figure. I dont know if i will trust it, but its working

mickmate · #10 (**permalink**) 05-14-2012, 09:48 AM

If it's working without the bulb it's now reading pressure in the cooling system not temperature.

elmariachi · #11 (**permalink**) 05-14-2012, 10:53 AM

Peter at Nisonger will FedEx you a new one if you call him. These gauges are fragile and fickle and all things that start with the letter F.

RestoCreations · #12 (**permalink**) 05-14-2012, 11:52 AM

I see what you mean...it is only going to 55 C on the gauge. It appeared to be working early this morning when it was still cool outside, but now the infrared heat gun and the gauge are reading separate temps. Oh well, ill just order a new one. What's a few more dollars at this point.