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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2014, 03:20 AM
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Lippy,

When you did the pre-install assembly and inspection, did you check that the input shaft wasn't bottoming out in the pilot bearing?
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Old 02-02-2014, 03:56 AM
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About the only thing I know about dual disk clutches is that there is some set-up and shimming that needs to be done on the clutch assembly (or at least checked and verified) to provide proper air gap when the clutch is pushed in. I assume either Brent or you did this?

I guess as painful as Bob's question could be - a way to check to see if that is the problem would be to back off the transmission bellhousing bolts about an 1/8 to 3/16 inch and loosen the transmission mount bolts. Then pull the transmission to the rear for increased clearance and then try pushing in the clutch and see if the rear wheels will turn.

Last edited by DanEC; 02-02-2014 at 04:02 AM..
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Old 02-02-2014, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC View Post
About the only thing I know about dual disk clutches is that there is some set-up and shimming that needs to be done on the clutch assembly (or at least checked and verified) to provide proper air gap when the clutch is pushed in. I assume either Brent or you did this?
There's only so much I can do here. I put the pivot and fork in the bellhousing, dialed the bell, and bolted up the flywheel/clutch. I have no way of checking gap here since there was no way of actuating the clutch, but everything assembled without issue. The trans was drop shipped to Jeff a few months before the engine got there.

I talked with Jeff as he was bolting up the trans, and we went over checking input shaft depth, and also the fact that the trans should go in without having to pull it in with the bolts.

I'm not sure how much stroke this particular setup is supposed to have, I've seen more out of the slave cylinders I've used. Usually, if everything mechanical is perfect, then it's an issue of air in the line, or the pedal ratio is off. A 3/4" bore master cylinder is about perfect as far as pedal effort goes, but it does require a bit more stroke.
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Old 02-02-2014, 10:59 AM
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Well Lippy - good news on the input shaft depth. Something else you might try is to further adjust the slave cylinder to fork rod to preload the clutch disc significantly - and then push it in and see if the wheels will turn. That will simulate more slave cylinder stroke. If it disengages then you know you need more stroke. With that dual disc clutch you can probably go with a 7/8 inch master cylinder easily (maybe 1 inch) without any problem. I forget what I calculated when I changed mine out but it saved at least an inch of stroke - or in your case will give you an inch more stroke (at the pedal). A screwdriver slot on the end of the rod will help pre-loading the clutch. (remember from earlier post)

Dan
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Old 02-02-2014, 11:09 AM
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This thread has a video that I posted of my clutch slave travel. New Cool Tool - DeWalt DC410 Inspection Camera - Quick Review with Pics and Video Does yours appear to be similar, in movement, to mine?
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Old 02-02-2014, 12:17 PM
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This thread has a video that I posted of my clutch slave travel. New Cool Tool - DeWalt DC410 Inspection Camera - Quick Review with Pics and Video Does yours appear to be similar, in movement, to mine?
Thanks Patrick, that tool is really cool. It looks like you are getting a lot more travel than I am, but I'm not sure why. I've bled this thing about 10 times and there are no air bubbles and the linkage is tight and responsive. Did you have any issues with the adjustment of your pedal height, and how it impacts cylinder actuation?
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Old 02-02-2014, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by lippy View Post
Thanks Patrick, that tool is really cool. It looks like you are getting a lot more travel than I am, but I'm not sure why. I've bled this thing about 10 times and there are no air bubbles and the linkage is tight and responsive. Did you have any issues with the adjustment of your pedal height, and how it impacts cylinder actuation?
Other than it all falling apart one day when I was out in Bumfu**? See: Ehhrggg, Standed by a Set-Screw Or when the fork was rubbing against the reservoir of the master? (You've seen that thread.) To answer your question, "No." Other than those two little incidents, I have had absolutely no issues whatsoever. Any chance you can take a quick video of your slave in action? I've got a feeling that the slave travel of my rod is longer than yours.
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Old 02-02-2014, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by blykins View Post
There's only so much I can do here. I put the pivot and fork in the bellhousing, dialed the bell, and bolted up the flywheel/clutch. I have no way of checking gap here since there was no way of actuating the clutch, but everything assembled without issue. The trans was drop shipped to Jeff a few months before the engine got there.

I talked with Jeff as he was bolting up the trans, and we went over checking input shaft depth, and also the fact that the trans should go in without having to pull it in with the bolts.

I'm not sure how much stroke this particular setup is supposed to have, I've seen more out of the slave cylinders I've used. Usually, if everything mechanical is perfect, then it's an issue of air in the line, or the pedal ratio is off. A 3/4" bore master cylinder is about perfect as far as pedal effort goes, but it does require a bit more stroke.
Brent, I'm about 99.99% sure this is me and not you, but I appreciate your expertise. I did check the depth as we discussed. But when I installed the trans, I jacked it up and pushed it onto the shaft (greased lightly as you mentioned). It went on most of the way easily, but I did use the bolts to pull it in about the last 0.5-0.75", turning each slightly and going in a diagonal bolt pattern so it went on straight.

Is there anything I can check besides the slave travel, possibly by looking into the fork opening? I'm sort of at a loss here.
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Old 02-02-2014, 05:18 AM
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Originally Posted by strictlypersonl View Post
Lippy,

When you did the pre-install assembly and inspection, did you check that the input shaft wasn't bottoming out in the pilot bearing?
Lippy, this is a big deal. If your trans shaft is squishing your crank forward, it won't be long until your thrust bearing is adios amigo. It must be checked.
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Old 02-02-2014, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by strictlypersonl View Post
Lippy,

When you did the pre-install assembly and inspection, did you check that the input shaft wasn't bottoming out in the pilot bearing?
Bob, Yes I did. I marked the depth in the trans with a dowel, and checked that I had clearance. Thanks.
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