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By the way, now that I've had to rebuild this engine, I'm going to be selling a bunch of stuff that I can't reuse and don't want to just leave sitting around on garage shelves. Some of which are pretty hard to find. Thought I'd offer it here first:
- Nicely refurbished original Holley 3255-1 with Lemans bowls (pics in my gallery). Was refurbished by Pony Carburetors a few years ago. - Holman Moody solid flat tappet "B" cam. Good condition with 6k miles on it. - Set of Lemans rods and TRW pistons (standard 427 bore). Good condition with 6k miles on them (were NOS when they went into the car). I'll come up with prices if anyone's interested. |
Your cam would be perfect for FatBoy's engine. See here: http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/fe-t...endations.html
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Since I'm in engine waiting mode, I'm working on some other cobra improvements, one of which is to add an A/F ratio gauge in the glove box for better carb tuning. Easier to add the o2 bungs with the side pipe out of the car. I assume that one o2 sensor is sufficient for a carbed engine and one of each bank only makes sense if you have EFI?
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Need one on each side.
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Had I thought of it, I would have had ERA weld two bungs in back when I had them build the car. That's such a simple, little thing to do when everything is apart and sitting on the shop floor. But, I didn't think of that. I thought of everything else, but not that. But I wouldn't go to the trouble of actually installing a gauge anywhere permanently, I would, instead, have a plug on the passenger side of the firewall, under the dash. Then I would just plug my dual gauge AFR meter in when I was doing diagnostics or tuning. I find that additional gauges just distract me when driving. Earlier this summer, I spent extra time getting my carburetor "just perfect" and, during the process, wondered what my vacuum readings were during normal driving, spirited driving, acceleration to open the PV, etc. Sooooo, I hooked my vacuum gauge up hanging from one of the knobs on the dash, so it was easily seen right there in front of me. Boy, what a distraction. Enlightening, but a real distraction. I think an AFR gauge will be just like that. :cool:
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Since my headers and pipes are laying in the garage, I thought this was the perfect time to weld the bungs in. I will probably just leave the AF gauge in the glovebox and pull it out only when testing/tuning.
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Don't just pick any spot to weld them in -- think about what you're doing. When you put your pipes back in the car, you don't want to wind up saying "dang, I should have put it just an inch over there to the right...."%/
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Bungs should go in the collector portion of the exhaust so that it gets a uniform signal instead of one pipe. Unfortunately, most Cobra setups are that you can't put a bung hole (had to say that, thinking of Beavis and Butthead days) in the header, it has to be in the sidepipe.
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Well, I want a video of you craning your neck over to look in the glove box while you nail it to WOT for a good three seconds.:cool: And, if you hit a tree, we won't post it just out of courtesy.;)
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Doug, your cam shipped today. Your lifters and carb shipped as well.
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I will store it in the glovebox and actually may only connect it to the bungs when testing/tuning. The o2 cables are long, so I can move the gauge closer to me when testing. Or bring along a passenger and they can look at it - although I find that WOT in a cobra can be distracting to passengers. :cool: |
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A video of the gauge is actually the easiest way and you just announce out loud what you're doing. I came to that conclusion when I was checking to see how much throttle I needed to give it to drop down below the PV setting.
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I've done it, and it's near impossible to drive for power while observing a wideband gauge, ESPECIALLY a digital gauge. A passenger or a video camera would be safer. |
I am going to replace my pilot bearing since everything's out of the car. My current bearing is part #6303RS but there is no manufacturer (FE to TKO). Google isn't as helpful as I would have thought with lots of part numbers that are similar, but not the same.
Who makes a quality replacement bearing that's an equivalent? |
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http://s7d9.scene7.com/is/image/Genu...sCompany/90398 |
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