FFR MK4 headlight upgrade and head restraint

[saki302]

Acton makes a pretty nice head rest that clamps to the roll bar.

I bought one for mine. The roll bar on mine has a bolt in the perfect spot to give me an extra unwanted skull orifice.

http://actoncobra.com/index.php?main...roducts_id=237

There used to be a guy who made cheap ones out of plastic and plywood for the FFR mk3- held on with velcro.
Not as pretty, but they came off in 10 seconds.

The acton one is rock solid, and just about perfect position for me as a usable head rest.

[Selo]

Originally Posted by saki302

Acton makes a pretty nice head rest that clamps to the roll bar.

I bought one for mine. The roll bar on mine has a bolt in the perfect spot to give me an extra unwanted skull orifice.

Head Rest Cushion Head Rest Cushion [] - $495.00 : Acton Custom Enterprises, Custom Metal for Cobras

There used to be a guy who made cheap ones out of plastic and plywood for the FFR mk3- held on with velcro.
Not as pretty, but they came off in 10 seconds.

The acton one is rock solid, and just about perfect position for me as a usable head rest.

Hell yeah. That's what I've been looking for!

[KDubU]

Selo, first congrats on a beauty! At first glance I thought it was mine that I let go of last August and regret it now. The giveaway it wasn’t was the louvres are not painted the same as the body. There are some good threads back on FF forums on upgrading your lights and may be more helpful. Patrick does call out a good thing about the relay and it’s possible the builder already took this into account? I know I did with my build just in case. Tell us more about your specs? Engine?

[Selo]

Thanks very much. I wish I had printed out the hemings at while I had the chance. The factory five Mark 4 was completed in 2013 with a 1990 Mustang GT donor. It has a 302 motor, with an Edelbrock manifold, a Ford racing cam, it'll Brock racing pistons, and easy fast 1.0 EFI. The builder says it probably puts out just north of 300 horsepower. It has a 3.31 rear end, and T5 manual transmission. 300 horsepower sounds about right, by seat-of-the-pants Dino. I had a 2014 GT500 before this, with 662 horsepower from the factory that I put a 331 rear end in, and this car does not feel as insanely fast as that car. The horsepower to weight ratio is not quite as aggressive on this car, and it's not as eager to break the tires loose. The Roadster has koni coilovers, with a live rear axle and a panhard bar. 17in halibrand rims. My mechanic was pretty impressed with the quality to detail with which it was built. Also, the builder put in all kinds of thoughtful touches, fans to bring fresh air into the suck Wells, Bluetooth for audio and phone, a hidden ignition cut-off switch so that the car won't start if you want to leave it parked in a public place, things like that. it has a couple small things I need to address, but overall I'm really pleased. I had no idea what to expect, bought it sight unseen, with the idea that I was buying based upon the builder and previous owner more than the miles orit has a couple small things I need to address, but overall I'm really pleased. I had no idea what to expect, bought it site unseen, with the idea that I was buying based upon the builder and previous owner more than the miles or cubic inches of the motor. Actually, I specifically didn't want a 427, as I've had mad horsepower before, and I wanted this to be more drivable, and less likely to be wrapped around a tree. The color is called indigo blue metallic. I was told it's a Mercedes color.

[Selo]

Sorry for the typos, this is done with voice to text.

[Jim Vander Wal]

Kevins2
Unfortunate that Susquehanna can't get you the lamps, hope you find them somewhere.
I usually ran the +50% bulbs and liked the light.
Jim

[kevins2]

Originally Posted by Jim Vander Wal

Kevins2
Unfortunate that Susquehanna can't get you the lamps, hope you find them somewhere.
I usually ran the +50% bulbs and liked the light.
Jim

Jim,

Thanks. I ordered them from MK1autohaus and they’re on the way. They just didn’t have the +50% bulbs.

Kevin

[xlr8tr]

Here's an option for the head restraint, I wanted one that was removable (mine uses UTV clamps), and wanted it to follow the outline of the rollbar hoop shape, I just like that look, blends in nicely in my mind. 3/4" plywood, 1/4" aluminum backing, plus 2" proper high density rollbar padding makes it pretty bomb proof.

[john4337]

Here’s my solution for headrests in my MK4. Not conventional, but they work for us.

https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fac...at-thread.html

John

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by john4337

Here’s my solution for headrests in my MK4. Not conventional, but they work for us.

https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fac...at-thread.html

John

More photos at John's post: https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fac...ml#post4619465

[kevins2]

Got the Hella Super 7" lights, installed the right light and flipped them on for comparison. The camera doesn't show the relative brightness - the new light is brighter even with the Hella standard H4 bulbs that came with them. Can see the flat top of the pattern compared to the sealed beam in the first photo (low beam). Of course, a wall just a few feet in front of the car isn't a valid test, so will make a night drive before deciding if I want to get the Performance plus 50% bulbs. They're brighter but have a shorter lifespan. In the second photo (high beam) can see the new light is significantly brighter and broader pattern as well - again, the camera tends to even them out - the difference is more than the photo shows.

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by kevins2

Got the Hella Super 7" lights, installed the right light and flipped them on for comparison. The camera doesn't show the relative brightness - the new light is brighter even with the Hella standard H4 bulbs that came with them. Can see the flat top of the pattern compared to the sealed beam in the first photo (low beam). Of course, a wall just a few feet in front of the car isn't a valid test, so will make a night drive before deciding if I want to get the Performance plus 50% bulbs. They're brighter but have a shorter lifespan. In the second photo (high beam) can see the new light is significantly brighter and broader pattern as well - again, the camera tends to even them out - the difference is more than the photo shows.

"he camera tends to even them out - the difference is more than the photo shows."

Yes, the difference will be more than the photo shows, because the human eye has far greater dynamic range than a digital sensor.

In photographic terms you've blown out the highlights. Once the sensor can no longer pick up any more light it doesn't matter whether it's 1% or 100% brighter than the sensor can handle.

A better comparison would be dial back the exposure until the camera can actually show the difference. If you really wanted to get fancy you could shoot a series of shots at different exposures to see a better comparison yet.

[kevins2]

Hi Brian,

Thanks for the photo tips. I've already installed the second light so hopefully the photos I posted have some value in showing the improved pattern. Because of my lack of photography skills, everyone will just have to take my word for it that they are brighter.

I'll post again once I've aimed them and gone for a night drive.

Kevin

[kevins2]

Since one of the topics is upgraded headlights, I thought it wouldn't be a complete hijack of the thread to post my solution to another night driving problem - glare from headlights behind you.

I picked up a tinted sun visor at PepBoys, cut it down to size and super glued some magnets on it. It eliminates headlight glare completely. The image is a slight double image due to the distance between the tinted plexiglass and the mirror, but that's not an issue at all - can easily see what's behind you without being blinded.







An eyeglasses pouch was perfect for storing it in the glovebox.



Kevin