New Cobra buyer - Questions - Driving Them...

[AdamIsAdam]

Hey,
I've been reading EVERYTHING I can get my hands on for the last few months in my quest to buy a Cobra. I've driven two and looked at many others, and I have a few questions about driving the different versions:

I drove a Superformance with 240 miles on it. Short story is that the owner bought his dream car and then got ill before he could enjoy it. (Moral of THAT story is buy while you're well enough to enjoy it!).

Anyway, the car is gorgeous. The widow loved it and was pretty knowledgeable. It drove fine except that the clutch was really very stiff. So stiff that there's no engagement feel. And my leg was starting to cramp pretty quickly. I'm no wuss about driving old cars (have a few fast cars myself).

It's a 347 build with a Tremec, TKO600 I think. Not sure about what clutch it is.

Is this a pedal design (angle of pedal assembly) or perhaps is this car just unusually stiff? It's not hydraulic.

I also drove a FFR and I don't recall that clutch being anything distracting. It was a little stiff of course, being cable operated, but not horrific.

Also, the Superformance was sort of a sideways fit. Typical, I know. The Backdraft I sat in was ridiculously sideways with that huge tranny tunnel. The FFR was just a little sideways.

Please provide feedback on different Cobra brands inherent tendencies as to driving position and comfort (ie, clutch pedal stiffness).

The one I drove today was bad enough that I will walk away from it, unless it can be saved with just a new clutch.

TIA for your input.

Adam

PS I should say that I'm looking for a fun weekend car. I don't really care how authentic or correct the car is to a degree. I prefer it to be fun, safe (meaning, it won't fall apart, not safe in the sense of: I know I need to respect the Snake's high power to weight ratio and short wheelbase. I'm not new at this game )

THANKS!

[Lou1119]

Originally Posted by AdamIsAdam

Hey,
I've been reading EVERYTHING I can get my hands on for the last few months in my quest to buy a Cobra. I've driven two and looked at many others, and I have a few questions about driving the different versions:

I drove a Superformance with 240 miles on it. Short story is that the owner bought his dream car and then got ill before he could enjoy it. (Moral of THAT story is buy while you're well enough to enjoy it!).

Anyway, the car is gorgeous. The widow loved it and was pretty knowledgeable. It drove fine except that the clutch was really very stiff. So stiff that there's no engagement feel. And my leg was starting to cramp pretty quickly. I'm no wuss about driving old cars (have a few fast cars myself).

It's a 347 build with a Tremec, TKO600 I think. Not sure about what clutch it is.

Is this a pedal design (angle of pedal assembly) or perhaps is this car just unusually stiff? It's not hydraulic.

I also drove a FFR and I don't recall that clutch being anything distracting. It was a little stiff of course, being cable operated, but not horrific.

Also, the Superformance was sort of a sideways fit. Typical, I know. The Backdraft I sat in was ridiculously sideways with that huge tranny tunnel. The FFR was just a little sideways.

Please provide feedback on different Cobra brands inherent tendencies as to driving position and comfort (ie, clutch pedal stiffness).

The one I drove today was bad enough that I will walk away from it, unless it can be saved with just a new clutch.

TIA for your input.

Adam

PS I should say that I'm looking for a fun weekend car. I don't really care how authentic or correct the car is to a degree. I prefer it to be fun, safe (meaning, it won't fall apart, not safe in the sense of: I know I need to respect the Snake's high power to weight ratio and short wheelbase. I'm not new at this game )

THANKS!

I have an SPF and it surprises me as Light the clutch is for this beast. The clutch in the car is a McCloud. I would check the owner as to which clutch is in the car. From what I know the clutch should not be that stiff.

[twobjshelbys]

A 240 mile car is done but not finished. All of them require "sorting out", with clutch and brakes being the very first on the list. First thing I'd do is bleed it. Also, does it have a classic master/slave or is it HTOB? (HTOB doesn't get good marks here.)

Frankly, if you've got the lead on the SPF car and being an estate issue, you can probably get a very good deal on it. I'd stick with that first.

SPF will get you higher resale and easier resale down the road.

[MKS427]

[quote=AdamIsAdam;1470567]Hey,

Also, the Superformance was sort of a sideways fit. Typical, I know. The Backdraft I sat in was ridiculously sideways with that huge tranny tunnel. The FFR was just a little sideways.

If you are looking for a roomier car, I believe the Classic Roadster (no longer in production) has a 96" wheelbase. You will see the stretch/difference in the front portion of the doors. The interiors are wider and longer, I am told by an owner.

As Tony stated, the Superformance will hold it's value better. Superformance cars are all built as rolling chassis, so they were all built to the same standard. They are definitely roomier than my FFR MkIV.

An FFR should be less $. However, with the different options between donor build to full kit with coil overs, brake options, live axle vs IRS, and workmanship to consider you will want to make sure to avoid getting a pig with lipstick. I have a MkIV full kit with live axle, it's a great car, but I built it the way I wanted with all new parts.

Good luck
Mark

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by AdamIsAdam

I've driven two and looked at many others, and I have a few questions about driving the different versions:

...

Is this a pedal design (angle of pedal assembly) or perhaps is this car just unusually stiff? It's not hydraulic.

Generally speaking, the more you spend the more you'll get. SPF cars can be good, but you can also do better. Do yourself a favor and test out a really well sorted out ERA/KMS/CSX car and then benchmark everything else against it. And I didn't even know you could get a SPF with a non-hydraulic clutch, unless you were referring to a non-HTOB clutch. A properly set up master/slave/fork based clutch will be reasonably easy on your leg and hold your horsepower.

[AdamIsAdam]

The widow's car is listed with a broker here:
https://www.webeautos.com/details-19...d-ny69972.html

They're asking $65k. I'm looking to spend less.

Can you tell by the pics if it's hydraulic clutch? Is that master cylinder on the firewall for brakes or clutch? I'm not familiar with these cars enough to know.

[patrickt]

You can tell from this pic that it has an external fork and hydraulic slave. It's just probably not set up right or the pressure plate was a poor choice. My advice would be not to get in over your head until you get some experience with these cars.

[ERA 626]

Originally Posted by AdamIsAdam

The widow's car is listed with a broker here:
https://www.webeautos.com/details-19...d-ny69972.html

They're asking $65k. I'm looking to spend less.

Can you tell by the pics if it's hydraulic clutch? Is that master cylinder on the firewall for brakes or clutch? I'm not familiar with these cars enough to know.

$65k seems to be about right for a big block(427) car, even more if it is an all aluminum shelby motor. but $65k for a small black car seems a bit high. That being said. It is a nice car. if your budget allows try to get the SPF vs the other cars you mentioned. Just a few days ago a guy was wanting a VERY nice ERA car here for about the same price... If I were in the market for a Cobra I would JUMP at that car. I have owned an ERA can for 18 years, zero issues and the clutch was perfect.

[ERA 626]

FYI
https://www.cobracountry.com/cars-fo...lica-peterson/

https://www.cobracountry.com/cars-fo...cobra-wheaton/

You could probably get either one of these BIG block ERA cars for about $65 this would be a great buy.

[AdamIsAdam]

Our posts were at the same time.

Ok, so it makes sense. I think you're saying that the hydraulic clutch needs to be rebuilt. That would make sense for a car sitting unused for 12 years.

I'd prefer to spend as close to $40k as possible and I'm good with a well sorted, well built FFR. My concern is finding a well built one, and then it's resale value later on. I get it that FFR will have lower resale than SPF, but if it starts at a much lower price point, there's a lower risk factor as well. But mostly, I want to enjoy owning and driving the car. This is not an investment, per se.

[t walgamuth]

There is a shredded looking place in the center, suggesting some basic misalignment there. If the pivot point is broken off it will change the leverage drastically and make the pedal very hard to push. The hydraulic cylinder also could be the wrong diameter giving poor leverage.

[Alfa02]

Adam, how long has this 240 mile SPF been sitting? As someone that had a chance to buy a 2001 ERA 427s/o with 6100 miles, that had sat for 10+years, the first 2years the mileage was put on. This ERA leaked everywhere, Motor, Gearbox, Rear end, Brakes, after less then 2-300 miles after being put back in driving cond. Dodged a huge bullet. We have a (2004) 930 mile SPF here in the PNW that I can't find a buyer for 40K because of the same thing (No leak's, but also no miles put on it yet). The owner thought he would make a killing selling a low mileage SPF, he's heartbroken, that he will lose 1000's of dollars rather then driving & enjoying it. Be very careful. P.S. I've driven many SPF all the clutches were light, and easy to use. Cheers Tom.

[patrickt]

Nothing wears a car out like neglect.

[FredG]

Take your time and do your research. Know what you want before you go looking. I took me almost 2 years to decide on a car. You have a lot of options. Regardless of which car you decide to purchase, it will take a little getting used to driving it but you will adapt quickly. The interiors are small, the seats a little crooked, the pedals close together and you will learn your own special procedure to get in and out of the car etc but you will adapt and not even notice. The cars can be intimidatingly fast and exhilarating to drive. They are also a blast to work on. Keep in mind that there is no substitute for horsepower and it will be the hardest upgrade to make down the road. Good luck.

Fred

[AdamIsAdam]

Originally Posted by patrickt

You can tell from this pic that it has an external fork and hydraulic slave. It's just probably not set up right or the pressure plate was a poor choice. My advice would be not to get in over your head until you get some experience with these cars.

Thanks for the insight. I'm learning as I go. But I'm also not going to wait forever like the owner of this car did. He only got 200 miles on the car before he died.

I am a quick study. And I'm hoping/relying on the kindness of forum friends to help me through the buying process. And the ownership thereafter.

I hope this note comes across the right way. I'm asking for help and very appreciative of any I get.

I was trying to use this Superformance as my benchmark. It drove worse than the FFR I drove, as I said.

Originally Posted by Alfa02

Adam, how long has this 240 mile SPF been sitting? As someone that had a chance to buy a 2001 ERA 427s/o with 6100 miles, that had sat for 10+years, the first 2years the mileage was put on. This ERA leaked everywhere, Motor, Gearbox, Rear end, Brakes, after less then 2-300 miles after being put back in driving cond. Dodged a huge bullet. We have a (2004) 930 mile SPF here in the PNW that I can't find a buyer for 40K because of the same thing (No leak's, but also no miles put on it yet). The owner thought he would make a killing selling a low mileage SPF, he's heartbroken, that he will lose 1000's of dollars rather then driving & enjoying it. Be very careful. P.S. I've driven many SPF all the clutches were light, and easy to use. Cheers Tom.

Tom,
Yes, exactly what I was looking for, a car that's been sitting and developing leaks, etc. I've seen it before as well. I'm not sure exactly how long it's been since the owner died before the nice widow finally decided to sell, but it's a while. She actually said she just had the car gone over to get it ready for sale. I didn't get into what was done, but yes, I agree, when you buy a car that's been sitting, it can be just as expensive to bring up to good working order as a car with high mileage.

[riggsjr]

Originally Posted by AdamIsAdam

Thanks for the insight. I'm learning as I go. But I'm also not going to wait forever like the owner of this car did. He only got 200 miles on the car before he died.

I am a quick study. And I'm hoping/relying on the kindness of forum friends to help me through the buying process. And the ownership thereafter.

I hope this note comes across the right way. I'm asking for help and very appreciative of any I get.

I was trying to use this Superformance as my benchmark. It drove worse than the FFR I drove, as I said.





Tom,
Yes, exactly what I was looking for, a car that's been sitting and developing leaks, etc. I've seen it before as well. I'm not sure exactly how long it's been since the owner died before the nice widow finally decided to sell, but it's a while. She actually said she just had the car gone over to get it ready for sale. I didn't get into what was done, but yes, I agree, when you buy a car that's been sitting, it can be just as expensive to bring up to good working order as a car with high mileage.

12 years is a long time for a car to sit.....

[AdamIsAdam]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Adam, here's another tip. On the street, if your car has an honest 400 horsepower, it's the same as if it had 600. Of course, the race track is another story.

Yup, 100% agreed! Most folks feel anything over 400 is hard to use on the street. My new GT350 is 526 and weighs 3,800lbs, with serious rubber, traction controls, etc, and I feel I can't come anywhere close to using it all to a point where it's frustrating to drive. But yes, on the track that car COMES ALIVE in a big way!

Originally Posted by riggsjr

12 years is a long time for a car to sit.....

Agreed. And they want top dollar. I'll pass on that one.

[FredG]

After re-reading the thread I want chime in with. The original SPF car discussed I wouldn't even consider. Budget engine, sitting too long and over priced by a lot. The only FF's I would own would be one I built myself or one that was built by someone I was completely familiar with by reputation and verified they actually constructed the car. That leaves you with the rest. Disregard the Kirkhams...rich persons toy. Make a the best deal you can for the remaining options. Everyone thinks their car is worth more than it really is and they find that out when they try to sell it. Cobra Country consistently represents the best market values. Vanguard Motors will show you some nice overpriced cars. There are some great values out there.

Fred

[Alfa02]

We're here for you Adam. Most of us are OLD & Retired so nothing better to do (except for patrickt, he's just a kid ) and us in the PNW can't drive our (Winter) cars anyway. Cheers Tom, or to the AZ boys (TommyRot)

[AdamIsAdam]

THANKS EVERYONE for the support and advice. I've been wanting one of these cars all my life.

I also wanted a 911. I bought one 2 years ago. I thought I would get an 80's air cooled, but after driving one I didn't like it. So I drove a 996 and loved it. I bought a 1999 Factory Aero with sport suspension, sport seats and enough carbon fiber, leather and fun options to push the $65k base price to $102k in 1999.

I really enjoy driving it, but it's different than that muscle car feel I enjoy most. And equally important is the fact that it's just so hard to work on at home. So it's going on BaT as soon as they finish the ad.

Bucket item checked off. On to the next one, which I hope I will enjoy more, and for longer.

Here are a few pics: