JAG IRS separating half shaft from upright hub

[Michael C Henry]

I have an older replica with JAG IRS. The original builder used a straight grease zerk in the outside U-joint in both half shafts. They probably looked great when the half shafts were not installed in the uprights. Once installed the zerks are close to and pointed at the aluminum protective bell wall. The zerks are not pointed where a grease gun would be coming from. I figure the zerks were installed using a 1/4" drive 6 point 5/16" socket. They are tight. I tried a 5/16" 12 point wrench and I could see the corners staring to round. I need to separate the half shaft from the upright far enough to access the zerk. They do no leak , there is no looseness, and the camber is correct. The car was built in 84 and I have had it since 99. I'm looking for information from some body that has done the JAG IRS upright and half shafts. advise , recommendations .

[strictlypersonl]

The axle must be pressed out of the hub. That can be easy or difficult depending on the original clearance and whether Loctite was used when the parts were assembled. Unfortunately, you won't find out until you try.
There should be a spacer and shims between the inner and outer bearing cones. Reassemble the same way (assuming the end clearance was correct in the first place).

[joyridin']

I have never had to press the axle out of the hub, but I did have to use a decent size dead blow hammer and smack it a few times. They always seem to come out.

[Michael C Henry]

The news about a press fit is news and is making me Leary. If there was a tool that I haven't thought about in order tp get that tight zerk out. So if I remove the Allen bolt and the outer wheel hub slips out , it's gravy? It was suggested that i try a right angle grease adapter to just get the U-joint to take grease. I ordered an adapter , should have by Saturday. I think it would be better with a 45° zerk, pointed back towards the half shaft where a grease gun could get on.
I'm not as adventurous as I used to be but do have a lot more time and some money to get things done If I can make it right and I figure that getting all the grease points greased when the urge over takes me is a significant point. The U--joint has survived for 36 years and I do not want to press my luck.

[patrickt]

Do you see how a portion of my upright, as modified by ERA, is carved out a bit making it really easy to get to the zerk? Maybe a slight trim with a dremel tool could give you the access you needed without having to pop the halfshaft out? You know you have to get the hub end float close to right when you put it all back together. That's a PITA.

[joyridin']

Originally Posted by Michael C Henry

The news about a press fit is news and is making me Leary. If there was a tool that I haven't thought about in order tp get that tight zerk out. So if I remove the Allen bolt and the outer wheel hub slips out , it's gravy? It was suggested that i try a right angle grease adapter to just get the U-joint to take grease. I ordered an adapter , should have by Saturday. I think it would be better with a 45° zerk, pointed back towards the half shaft where a grease gun could get on.
I'm not as adventurous as I used to be but do have a lot more time and some money to get things done If I can make it right and I figure that getting all the grease points greased when the urge over takes me is a significant point. The U--joint has survived for 36 years and I do not want to press my luck.

Maybe I am missing something, but what Allen bolt? On my Jag rear axle, the easiest way to do it is remove the tire/rim. Unbolt the sway bar. Put a jack under the lower control arm and unbolt the shocks. Remove the large nut on the end of the axle stub. Use a dead blow hammer and smack it a few times. Sometimes it takes quite a few swings, but it will come out. The aluminum housing will then be free from the axle and you will have access to the fitting.

The set on my car now has a hole drilled on the top of the housing in line with the u-joint so you can grease it. The set I have sitting in a box does not. I assume it was drilled at some point in time. You could line it up and use a die grinder or drill to put a hole in the housing, or do as Patrick said and install a notch. Do you have solid axles or tubular style?

[Michael C Henry]

I have a studded wheel flanges to bolt my 16"PSE wheel and tire to. There is a large Allen bolt pointing out. I'm figuring that big Allen bolt holds the out side studded wheel flanges to the half shaft coming from the inside of the upright hub The tires and wheels are off on both side of the car. My upright hubs inside protective bells are not altered The PSE wheels cover the Allen bolt when installed
I see your ERA Jag IRS already has the 45° zerk installed. The picture looks as if there may be more room in your upright bell than I have in mine. But you see what a difference a 45° zerk makes. I'm not going back under for a while but I swear my U-joint cross is different than the one pictured.
I started the "what would change " thread This one of my concern that I just got stuck on.

[strictlypersonl]

ERA doesn't modify the hubs. That picture is of our original hub design for our ERA rear suspension. I'd have to check, but it's possible some Jag hubs also have the cutout, and that's where I got the idea.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by strictlypersonl

ERA doesn't modify the hubs. That picture is of our original hub design for our ERA rear suspension. I'd have to check, but it's possible some Jag hubs also have the cutout, and that's where I got the idea.

If he would post a picture I bet we could opine on cutting a small piece out, or grinding it down, to allow for a quick lube. I'm afraid if he tries to pop the HS out it's either not going to move and he's going to circle downward in the despair of the repair or if he does get it out he's going to muff the float on reassembly.

[Michael C Henry]

I do not spend a lot of time under the car . It has to be a problem and I just happened to be finishing up another point where. I had the tires off to apply black Gorilla duct tape over the access holes for the door latch anchors in the front of the wheel wells. And thought it was about time to lube the IRS. Getting the PSE wheels off is a process. I keep a special ball house Allen to get the screw out that keeps the fake spinner in the wheel. I have a small garage and once the car is crippled up in the garage, there isn't much room left. Now I'm here i want to get it so lubing could be more spontaneous. I do not do burn outs as I'm the guy buying the tires. I was surprised the year before when I had a flat when I took the car out of the garage.. A perfectly good tire except for the cut in the inside side wall. I never found out how or why. My tires are wearing so good they are more likely to weather check.
Any way if the outside wheel flange slides out, I should be well on my way to get the half shaft coming out the back???

[Michael C Henry]

Yes, I did say Allen bolt, I backed it out and there was a thick washer-plug, tapered outside and flat inside. That removed, I see inner and outer splines. I did see a video last night and a puller is in order to get the separation started. I'll be looking around for a puller today.
All this because a straight zerk was used on that U-joint.

[mvanhorn8893]

Good evening, If you want to shoot me an email I can send you a pdf that shows how my Jag rear suspension goes together at the hub. I have a Contemporary from 1996 that I'm finishing up now. I don't need a puller to separate the axle half shafts from the hubs. mvanhorn8893@gmail.com

Mike

[Michael C Henry]

I ordered my own hub puller Should have it here Thursday. Now Grease zerks almost another education. I presumed 1/4" by 28 then there is straight, tapered ,6mm and it keeps going on. and they are not giving these things away. I saw one 1/4"x 28 hex body 45° more to grep with a wrench. $20 ea. WE have a hydraulic and truck parts store locally. After I get the old zerk out I'll have them identify and sell me two new 45ⁿ
I was up till after 4AM thinking about this crap.

[Michael C Henry]

In the video I watched a thee legged puller that bolted to the wheel studs was used. I found a similar heavy duty hub puller that had a good name and an affordable price. I ordered a True Power 20-2029 Universal Hub Puller from Amazon . Had my wife order it with her Prime account. It came, it worked great.. Took me longer to bolt up than actually separate the upright and wheel flange from the half shaft. It took a moment of pressure then the puller was a handy handle th push the upright down away from the half shaft far enough to get the 1/4" ratchet and socket into remove the straight zerk.
The replacement was a 1/4'x 28 45° zerk with a hex body for more wrench success. The angled zerks have a larger hex 3/8" rather than the 5/16" that the straight zerk had. I do not think I would have been able to install the new zerk without the half shaft being backed out of the upright.
Rule now, the outboard U-joint of the Jag haft always needs to be a 45° 1/4" x 28 zerk.