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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2007, 12:14 PM
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Default 64 427 way too rich

Hi: So i have a 1964 427 2x4 1850 600cfm carbs. iron heads. She is running way too rich. These carbs are new. I bought them off of EBAY from a seller that has really good history. He's the sellor that powder coats his carbs. I got the powder blue ones. Looks really nice.

Anyway, this is whats happening. When i begin my drive cold. Everything runs really nice except for the puff puff sound that i get when running at a consistant rpm coming out of my passenger side pipe. As the drive gets longer i begin to have hesitation on acceleration, i have to keep it at 1100-1500rpm at stoplights to keep it from bogging down. Also it starts to backfire slightly.

Now, these being new carbs 1850-list, 600cfm, the sell said that they are pre tested on engines and ready to go. Now my guy went ahead and adjusted the flow levels to the point where the can was just hitting the set screw opening where you can see the level. I hope that makes sense to you all. Can too high of bowl level make the carbs run too rich.

Now both carbs have vacuum diapgrams for the secondaries but they are not linked together because there is no outlet to do so. So they must open up individually.

I have a 15 gallon tank that seems to be giving me 50 miles to the gallon only. I had 750cfm and they told me that they are way to rich of carbs for my engine. So now with these they are giving me the same statement.

Please help me. Dont know who to believe anymore.
Extremely frustrated.
Automan
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Old 09-29-2007, 12:40 PM
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What kind of carbs do you have (i.e. make)?

Gerry
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Old 09-29-2007, 12:47 PM
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Mechanical linkage? Are the primaries of both carbs opening at the same time.
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Old 09-29-2007, 01:01 PM
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What's your timing set at? Everyone on this forum says to set the timing to 12 degrees initial, but my engine builder laughed at it. He said it needed a lot more timing. I set my idle at 3000 rpm and set the timing to 39 degrees. When I dropped the idle back down to 950, the initial layed at about 19 degrees. The car has run so much better ever since. I know I need a dyno tune to get it dialed in, but the car has a lot more power and doesn't feel or smell as rich as it did with 12 degrees of initial timing.

All that to say, it may not be a carb problem at all.
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Old 09-30-2007, 09:07 AM
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Hi: Thanks for your responses.

The carbs are Holly 1850-List. The Secondaries are vacuumed but they dont have any outlets to link them to one another. Im not sure what you mean by mechanical linkage but but i dont have a cable controlling the carbs. They are rods to the pedal.

Yes the primaries both open at the same time. The guy setting up my car said that they have to open at the same time. He showed me that when the throttle was wide open that the carb furthest away from the firewall was opened less the the one close to the firewall. So he took two Question mark style linkage and used them to connect the linkage. I told him that everyone else that i have seen on this forum used one question mark one and the longer straighter style linckage rod to connect both carbs. That it was probably STD to have one carb open before the other. He didn't think so.

The timing is something that we are still struggling with. I'm not confident that we have it right. There is only one notch on the balancer. When we think that piston one is top center, the notch doesnt line up with the pointer. Its about 1/4 inch off. My distributer has two vacuum notches coming out of it but they are not hooked up. When we did hook them up, my builder said thats what caused your head gasket to allow number one cylinder to fill up with antifreeze. That i had created way to much advance to create pre-detination in all cylinders. The gasket, when i removed it did have carbon past all of the cylinder rings. If you ask me, i think that he didn't torque down the heads enough but what do i know.

Thanks for the help guys.
I really appreciate it.
Automan
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