Glass Cobra Weights

[andyl]

Trying to nut out what horsepower I need going forward so I put my cobra over the scales the other day to see what it weighs and it came in at 1200Kg on the button. I have to admit that was a little more than I was guessing (hoping) it would be but at the moment its all cast iron Windsor, even manifold.

Do the weights vary kit by kit much and are the newer builds with all alloy (often chev) engines markedly lighter ?

-Andy

[Aussie Mike]

I've tried to keep the weight down in mine. It weighed in at 1060KG when I got it registered. It didn't have a windscreen then or much of an interior. However I've since shaved about 30KG off it with tubular rear suspension so I figure it'll probably still be close to that number with the screen fitted and the interior all done.

From what I've seen most completed Cobras are in the 1100-1200KG range

Cheers

[boxhead]

Mine came in at 1150kg without trying to loose weight on the scales.

That was 600kg rear and 550kg front.

[Towmaster]

They are all pretty much the same. Harrisons can be around the 1000kg mark, depending on interior, engine etc. A torana based DRB, which mine is, come in around the 1200kg mark with a cast iron windsor in them.. Depends also what you put behind them, a TKO600 is a bit heavier than just a T5, a 9" diff is also quite hefty...

[David Hodgson]

My G-Force with 302 windsor and Jag rear came in at 1140Kg, the mates twin chassis rail RMC with Clevo, tremec, Jag gear and half a tank of juice came in over 1400Kg. He was awarded 'Most Lush Cobra' at one of the early W.W Nats.

[Rebel1]

In my gallery you will find a chart of weights of several WA club cars. mostly G-Force and RMC's.

Corner weights and engine type listed.

Mostly old cast iron thingys.

[Merv and Sharon]

"cast iron thingys....!" Not "bowtie" motors Les?

[Rebel1]

Nope Merv, just old cast iron FFFF
ermm .... FFFFFFFFFFFFF
hell .... FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFfords

Now I'm gonna go wash my own mouth with soap ..... Mom always did if I used a norty word.

[sambo]

Originally Posted by andyl

Do the weights vary kit by kit much and are the newer builds with all alloy (often chev) engines markedly lighter ?

Alloy gen 3/4 engines with all accessories weigh around 90kg less than the cast iron equivalent. Sorry I can't remember where I read that, but it sounded feasible to me at the time so I filed it away.

Are you doing power/weight calculations for the drag strip? If not, I'd be more interested in torque delivery (eg, traction) and gearing than HP. My 2 cents!

[WardL]

The seller of my SFP told me it weighed 1,134 kg with a Roush 427.

[andyl]

Thanks heaps everyone for the info, mine sit about the middle it seems, not much in these cars to reduce weight from (without a lot of sanding) other than driveline.

>boxhead:
>Mine came in at 1150kg without trying to loose weight on the scales.
>That was 600kg rear and 550kg front.[/quote]

Pretty clear indication that alloy works! Nice balance for traction too!.

>Rebel1:
>In my gallery you will find a chart of weights of several WA club cars.
>mostly G-Force and RMC's.

Thanks for that one Rebel, interesting info indeed, especially the first cleveland coming in at just 1142.

>sambo:
>Are you doing power/weight calculations for the drag strip? If not, I'd be
>more interested in torque delivery (eg, traction) and gearing than HP. My 2
>cents!

I'm looking to build a good combo car really, I realise that can mean not truely great at either. More than anything I want a car that gives some resemblance of the experience of what a real cobra is like more so than building an accurate copy.

I confess I used the word horsepower very loosely there, what I actually meant was to start specifying out what I want long term regards driveline and you are correct torque is the better term especially regards gearbox & diff choice as I need to make them soon, even though building the engine will come last. I'm torn between building a smaller capacity engine based on an 8.2" 4.125 block, keeping shorter stroke and building it for biggish revs or going for stroked 9.5" 4.125 to 427ci for lots of torque but with modest rev range. Alloy would be lovely in either of these but expensive and of bigger benefit in the first case. Looking at the weight of the car (and driver!) I'm leaning more towards the later but it has more driveline and legality implications so I'm pretty torn. Having a 427 under the bonnet has obvious appeal too however.

Again thanks to all for replies, especially Rebel1 for the table.

-Andy

[Rebel1]

andyl, We would all love to have 427ci but the reality is that with modern alloy heads and cams on/in Windsor based engines one can enjoy the cobra experience especially if one stroked the windsor.

The W302/5ltr stroked to 331/347 makes a great engine with say AFR heads and the 351W is bluddy fantastic as a 392/408ci with the same heads.

My preferred engine would be a 351 based clevor. A 351 windsor with CHI 3V alloy heads and a nice roller cam and aftermarket 4 barrel FI.

Don't tell any-one I said that ... I'd never live it down

[andyl]

Originally Posted by Rebel1

andyl, We would all love to have 427ci but the reality is that with modern alloy heads and cams on/in Windsor based engines one can enjoy the cobra experience especially if one stroked the windsor.

The W302/5ltr stroked to 331/347 makes a great engine with say AFR heads and the 351W is bluddy fantastic as a 392/408ci with the same heads.

My preferred engine would be a 351 based clevor. A 351 windsor with CHI 3V alloy heads and a nice roller cam and aftermarket 4 barrel FI.

Don't tell any-one I said that ... I'd never live it down

Yeah the CHI 3Vs look fantastic and everything I've read is great but space dictates what I can put in without mods to engine bay lining etc, a 302W with windsor style heads fits with tight exhaust area and a 351W I think would actually fit better due to the shape of the bay but the Cleveland style heads would upset the apple cart I think on the exhaust side.

The other thought is that to the eye whether a 8.2" or 9.5" W block will still look like a Windsor whereas a Cleveland is a more obvious deviation from what the car was built and approved with (in regards to 'interested' onlookers). In short, a stroked 351 to 427 (or 408 in a std block) will look more like a 302W than a Cleveland and get less attention because of it.

The AFR 205s are the top of the pile for this sort of thing in my mind, and I must say they are getting fantastic figures out of 347s with the mid 400HP in a streetable build.

[Rebel1]

Mind you, everything I said would make me totally un-registerable hence the 6Ltr chev.

Mind you, I dream of the day that I might be able to do what I'd like so in my shed sits a 302W, a 5Ltr virgin block, and a new 351W service block just waiting for the day.

[David Hodgson]

Originally Posted by Rebel1

The W302/5ltr stroked to 331/347 makes a great engine with say AFR heads and the 351W is bluddy fantastic as a 392/408ci with the same heads.

My preferred engine would be a 351 based clevor. A 351 windsor with CHI 3V alloy heads and a nice roller cam and aftermarket 4 barrel FI.

Don't tell any-one I said that ... I'd never live it down

Sorry Les, the Doc checked my ears and apparently they're OK

[Merv and Sharon]

Ah - he is a traditionalist after all...

[andyl]

Originally Posted by Rebel1

Mind you, everything I said would make me totally un-registerable hence the 6Ltr chev.

Mind you, I dream of the day that I might be able to do what I'd like so in my shed sits a 302W, a 5Ltr virgin block, and a new 351W service block just waiting for the day.

lol, Ford envy eh.

While we're at it (brain picking time, all opinions welcome) I notice you run a Jag LSD, do you know of a good guy in SEQ for them ? Also what would be your preference for aftermarket 4.125" bore Windsor blocks on a value for money basis ? Dart and World would be great blocks but what is your opinion on others such as Ford Racing etc ?

[Rebel1]

Originally Posted by andyl

lol, Ford envy eh.

While we're at it (brain picking time, all opinions welcome) I notice you run a Jag LSD, do you know of a good guy in SEQ for them ? Also what would be your preference for aftermarket 4.125" bore Windsor blocks on a value for money basis ? Dart and World would be great blocks but what is your opinion on others such as Ford Racing etc ?

What ...to service the jag diff or buy a used one?.
Re Blocks, I'm a bit partial to Bill Mitchell stuff but an overkill for a street car.

[andyl]

Originally Posted by Rebel1

What ...to service the jag diff or buy a used one?.
Re Blocks, I'm a bit partial to Bill Mitchell stuff but an overkill for a street car.

Re the diff, mine has a series 1 or 2 (inboard disc) 3.77:1 open centre and I want to go for an LSD and possibly change ratios. I'm not sure what torque they will hack either so was going to see about that and work out what limits that puts on things and what cost to go past those limits.

I've not seen Bill Mitchell, I'll have a look about.

[Rebel1]

andyl, sorry mate, Bill Mitchell is World Products.

Re the Diff. I have a huge respect for a small independent Jag service business at Newmarket in Brisbane. Jag & Rover Spares Phone 07 33565255. He also wrecks Jags and Rovers so is a source for second hand stuff.

The main thing is he knows his Jags backwards and employs great Jag mechanics. But be warned, some find him a bit brash ... not arrogant ... just short and sharp in his responses. He is a very busy man. Actually the business is a bit strange but all the hot rod guys buy their Jag rear ends from him.