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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2011, 07:17 PM
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Does anyone have the NEW CR Build manual in a PDF file or something similar. Would really like to have a read before i make a final decision?

From all your guys builds have you come across items or things that you can save a bit of coin with e.g are you better off getting a windscreen from CR for $1500 or from somebody else etc etc?
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2011, 07:55 PM
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Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival CR3516, LS3, Aussie Mike'd T-56, 3.70 LSD, AP brakes, Penske shocks
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for windscreen specifically I think its best to get from the kit vendor, that way you're guaranteed it will fit the body. For most other things like fuel tank, radiator etc, its probably 6 one 1/2 doz. the other.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2011, 08:01 PM
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You can save big $ on almost all parts it just depends the time and effort you're prepared to put in to source them.Try Finishline in the US just for a start, then there's ebay, Factory Five, Stafford UK etc etc.

It's easy to just grab the parts from your kit manufacturer, but you will pay for his time to do all the legwork and fair enough too. Personally, I enjoyed the chase for stuff and learnt a lot about the building process by scrounging around the net and modifying stuff from the local wreckers.

I'm still marvelling at Zedn's build cost..........I thought I was pretty careful with my budget, but $35k is quite amazing. He's a very talented bloke, eg just check out some of his fabrication skills in his gallery. I wouldn't even consider attempting most of the stuff he's made, saving stacks of $$.

My car owes me $60k and I reccon that's not bad going and I'm yet to get my teeth into engine mods.....be interesting to hear others final cost!!

As many blokes have pointed out, if you want value you're probably better off with buying a finished car.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2011, 08:12 PM
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Cobra Make, Engine: Classic revival kit (CR3181), gen III engine, T56 6 speed box, AU XR8 lsd diff
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There was a fair bit of bartering and "knowing the right people" in my build, my costs including engineering, first 12 month rego and stamp duty is just over $40k.

Now my car is not as pretty as others, but mechanically it is just as good or beter than most I think.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2011, 08:35 PM
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If your going to purchase a car to be registered in NSW make sure you buy a car with NSW rego you may have issues with rego bringing one in from interstate....
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2011, 09:19 PM
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speaking of rego, something that just occurred to me......if you have a family member/friend who you trust and who trusts you, could you not run the car through engineering/reg in another (sympathetic) state and register in their name?

Then just leave it reg'd in that state in their name?

It would just be a shame if it spent 362 days of the year in NSW (one must allow for Shelbyfest )

No doubt there's some nonsense about "intent" and spending most of its life in it's "home" state - but really, who's going to know?
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2011, 09:40 PM
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When I first moved to Alice Springs, I was pulled up after about 4 months by teh coppers when I was driving my wifes Commodore (it was still QLD rego), they said they had seen the car around for a while and reminded me that if it is in the NT for more than 3 monthes, it needs to be transfered into NT rego.

In your suggestion.
Maybe different if the owner is living interstate, but it is a big thing to ask of someone, "can I register my car in your name - I promise I wont get caught speeding etc", dont know how you will go with insurance, can add second drivers name (yours) but insurer may ask questions when they see your name is a different state to where car is.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2011, 02:13 AM
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Out of all the parts you need, the windscreen was one of the few things I bought through Ian. Compared to others I've seen it's top quality and made in England. The screen sits in a U-shaped rubber and isn't siliconed in which allows it to move as necessary. The holes for the side wings and visors are perfect and the chrome on brass frame has the best chromework I've ever seen! Another CR builder in Adelaide bought the interior kit from CR which included seat covers, carpet, doortrims and dash cover. It wasn't cheap but still needed an upholsterer to trim/refit so it would fit properly.

Regards.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2011, 03:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beauies View Post
Sloth, very nice car.
What rear end has been used?
Beauies, it is a ford independant rear withaussie mikes bump steert kit fiitted. Nice car to drive.
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2011, 03:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beauies View Post
Does anyone have the NEW CR Build manual in a PDF file or something similar. Would really like to have a read before i make a final decision?

From all your guys builds have you come across items or things that you can save a bit of coin with e.g are you better off getting a windscreen from CR for $1500 or from somebody else etc etc?
It depends on how much time you are willing to spend finding cheap parts and what skills you have.

Some examples of cost from my build
- I was about $10k ahead to begin with because my body and chassis was only $6000 second hand.
- $1500 for jag front and rear plus about $1k for shortened half shafts and parts to rebuilt front and rear including brakes.
- fuel tank $225 90lt stainless i fabed myself, $120 for walbro intank pump.
- windscreen $140 (+$140 cause i cracked it ) windscreen frame $50 in argon because i used the left over stainless from the tank.
- Wipers and motor $50 from a triumph wrecker plus about $100 for replacement chrome wipers from ebay (if you buy cobra wipers it will cost hundreds).
- Seats from RX7 that needed some foam repaired $50. Bought some foam for $20 shaped it myself and glued it on. Bought custom covers of ebay for $370.
- LS3 $7950
- T56 $1900
- Alloy radiator $320
- steering column $50 from pick and payless
- Wheels $2100
- Tyres $710
- painting i will do myself for the cost of materials (about $650)

This should give you a guide. I think paying for labour is what would really get the budget ticking over.
Whilst i have bought and made things cheaply, the thing you dont want to do is skimp on things. You can buy heaps of used parts off donar cars but i think it is worth replacing all wearable items such as bearings and bushes. I still plan to buy a proper replica windscreen frame, but mine will get the car on the road and then i can add that afterwards.

The stuff that gets you is bolts. They add up really quickly.
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2011, 05:19 AM
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Zedn,
Wanting to do all assembly myself. Bodywork, and trimming will be farmed out. I'm not worried about saving every penny but not prepared to just give money away.
Your T56 was it second hand for that price? Closest price i have got for new T56 was around $2600
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2011, 09:59 PM
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$2600 is really cheap for a new one, where is that from?

Mine is second hand out of a VE SS with 40,000kms on it.
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2011, 10:25 PM
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Beter not mention mine cost a carton of Crownies (second hand)
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2011, 12:03 AM
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Oh Crap....mine cost over $6,000 !!!!
"Beefed up" new T56, with a Hurst Shifter........ from Mal Wood.......Ouch...ouch...ouch!

Looking for a Cheap Tremec for the Race Cobra....that T5 in it at the moment...( World Class V8 Box and quite strong )...has GOT to let go one day !!
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2011, 12:37 AM
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I bought my T56 for about $500 - but then spent a couple of grand with Mal Wood rebuilding it and relocating the shifter.

Beauies,

If you can get out to the Hills area in Sydney you are welcome to check over my Classic Revival and ask questions.

Ben
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2011, 12:49 AM
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Beejay,
thanks for the offer might just have to take you up on that, i live in the hills myself
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2011, 12:52 AM
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When i needed to change my T5 over in my ute to a T56. Around $6000 was the magic number from Mal Wood. Wouldn't have anyone else modify one but him, great service excellent clutch kits too.
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2011, 01:14 AM
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Beauies,

PM sent
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2011, 04:45 PM
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Too easy.

Give me a yell and I will drop over and take you for a drive.

Ben
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2011, 06:13 PM
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Beauie
I travelled across the country looking at as many builders as I could and finished up talking to an engineer in Nth NSW and thats where all my searching virtually stopped and today almost 2 years later the problems of ICV approval we discussed then have only become more difficult.
Last week I was speaking with a reliable source about ICV registration and regulation changes to be informed that not one new ICV was registered in NSW last year I am glad to be preparing my car in Queensland at least we still have a window open to register without too much hassle but I am pushing hard for the finish line asap.
One of the other threads I think was good advise buy a registered Snake you can make changes after to suit yourself cost yes in the begining its a hit but you have locked the car in your name and no changes can reverse that.
But if your really wan't to do a build get a Qld. address and buy a Qld. build chassis and I am not saying the others are not as good but when push come to shove the locals have engineers with all the required approvals to get your build on the ROAD.
In the end Square tube Round tube Wheels what ever dia or back space means nothing if can't get the the dam thing registered $50 to 60G or more not worth diddly if you can't enjoy it freely.
Just my thoughts1
Trevor w
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