My Harrison build

[sambo]

Ryder I admire your work with the improvised tools. I burned mine out and the new ones are nolathane in two parts (upper/lower) with a metal sleeve through the centre so shouldn't need a press.

[muzzza]

Ryder, I was a bit lucky.........picked up excellant R33 GTST diff with aftermarket upper arms in place. They are "Cusco" . One of the better quality products. Has good quality "pillowball " ( spherical bearings with sealing boot to each side ) joints to each end. Quality of some cheaper arms is not great ! Mine went thru' engineering and over the pits at Brisbane Transport Dept without any issues. Good luck with your project. Muzzza

[sambo]

A few photos from my gallery.

The subframe bushes are silicone filled and prone to leakage. Burning out the centres allows the outer sleeves to be bashed out a little more easily. That was the fun part.



Examples of adjustable toe, lower and upper arms. Although I have an R33 rear end, the angle of my rear shocks/springs means I need the "hoop" style top arm from the R32 - it follows a wider arch than the R33 version. Probably a stronger design too. I'm still running the factory arms at this stage. The ones below are a lot heavier than the pressed steel items from the factory,.

[Ryder]

Sambo,

I'm thinking your way of getting the bushes out looks like much more fun. Lets face it, few things are as satisfying as destroying stuff with fire and then finishing it off with a big hammer!

I got this style of arm. I figure it will do camber, and the tie rods on the rear steer lockout I'm making should do toe in/out. I'll paint them black when I paint the rest of it, I doubt most people will even notice it's not stock.

[Mando]

Sambo, I really like the the look of your custom arms. Your lucky you can buy things like that straight of the shelf.

Regards.

[sambo]

Ryder - too right! Those are the R32 style top arms. I bought the adjustable bottom arms to hopefully allow me to make the whole track a little narrower. Being limited to 2 deg neg camber with factory arms, if I were to straighten them up even just 1 deg, the tyres will start to rub the guards.

Mando - we have the drift boys to thank for this.

[Rog246]

Sorry to correct you Sambo , but those are definitely R33 arms NOT R32
Close but no cigar for you
Rog

[sambo]

Whoops you're right Rog, typo. I got it right when describing my gear

[Merv and Sharon]

True I had to get the circular top arms to fit my coil over on the 33s.

[Ryder]

Been working on lots of different areas as I wait for other parts to arrive

Photo of the front hub upright, before and after I did the modification to it. Ideally, I would have liked to do the mod on a mill, however, I didn't have one. So, I made do with a cutting disk on a 4" grinder, a set of hand files and an engineers square. Came up pretty well I think



Did the bending, cutting and welding of the VE clutch and brake pedals to fit. I really like the fact that Warwick continues to update the parts that go into the cars - the old style called for an XF pedal box and those are becoming both worn out and rare.
It also shows both the horrible mess on my garage floor, and my poor bike looking neglected. I should get on both of those really...



This is the latest one, taken today. My headlights, fuel cap and number plate light arrived today from snakebite, and so did the holesaw I ordered from ebay. I wasted no time putting them on with that and the screen temporarily installed it's starting to look like a car now!


This is the style of holesaw I got for the headlights. $80 from Ebay. Worked REALLY well, highly reccomended! Used it for the fuel cap too, will use it for the gauges and indicator lights too. The drill bits that came with it are even sheetmetal bits, needed a set of them anyway.




The shocks and springs are supposed to arrive in the next day or two, and tomorrow I'll get the new tyres fitted to the rims. Planning on doing the modification to the hub to convert it to ford tomorrow of the day after. Still need to find a place that sells blank commodore rotors and brake fittings too. Then the car will be rolling! Having great progress right now, still really excited about it

[Ryder]

Have fitted steering column, new ball joints for the lower control arms, got my blank rotors and new hubs - still need to machine them. Also got my brake lights and indicators today, arrived from the UK.

But more excitingly, my engine and gearbox have arrived! It's an LS2 and 6 speed manual, I got it with all of the wiring loom, computer, tailshaft, fuel pump, all accessories, exhaust system ect ect. I got the VIN number of the car the computer and loom came off, apparently you need it to unlock the ECU security for some reason or other.

So here's a pic of all my toys crammed into the garage



I'll need to modify or remake the headers to fit, and it looks like all the accessories need to come off the motor to fit it in there. I'm not sure i'm entirely happy with the angle of the uni joint on the steering rack right now, so once thats sorted the motor will be temporarily dropped in to work out wiring and headers. Plus i'm running out of shed space, I need to stick it somewhere...

[sideshow]

u dont need the vin to unlock ecu
the flashing software tells u the vin when u log onto the ecu
does your gbox have a speed sesnor on the extension housing
some late model ones didnt have one which causes some headaches
or u can use a gps speedo

[Ryder]

That's handy to know, thanks

Yes, it has a sensor on the extension housing and a 2 wire sensor on the box. Haven't looked too closely but I assume that one is a reverse light switch. Box is a Tremec T56 TUET8381 out of a VE SS, just for interests sake

[Zedn]

Ryder, the speed sensor should be on the drivers about 100mm from the end of the box. I don't think it will have one as mine didnt. Not too big a drama, you just need to pull the tail housing off, install the reluctor wheel and bore out the house to fit the sensor. I did it myself and cost about $50 in parts.

I have a source for the relocation shifter for around $100 also.

[Ryder]

Ahh yep, I follow you now - found your old thread about the T56, and from the pic you put up it seems the sensor I have on the output shaft there is the VSS. Bugger.

Did you get the new parts straight from Holden or somewhere else? And I'm definitely interested in a shifter relocation kit for it...

[Ryder]

Edit: from what I can find on the net about the VSS, it provides the ECU with data about vehicle speeds and when the car is decelerating in order to cut off fuel to the engine ect. This being the case, is it not possible to piggy back off it to a speedo as well, without needing to install anything else?

[Treeve]

Originally Posted by sideshow

or u can use a gps speedo

Not for rego you can't. Too many places where you would not have a speed reading, which isn't acceptable and doesn't meet ADR requirements.

Treeve

[sideshow]

u can use dakoda digital gps sensor that converts to speed pulse
works thru tunnels

[sideshow]

a ve uses speed signal from abs module thru canbus
so u normnally need to reprog ecu for speedo sensor on box to work

[Zedn]

Speed sensor and reluctor wheel was from mal woods. Can't remember exact but it was around $50 for the lot