Not necessarily, they are usually employed for ease as most ignition locks are column mounted.

You need to have 2 methods of anti theft operated by the one key or device.

ADR 25/02
2.3 “protective device” means a system designed to prevent unauthorized normal activation of the engine or other source of main engine power of the vehicle in combination with at least one system which: locks the steering; or locks the transmission; or locks the gear-shift control;

5.1. The protective device shall be so designed that it is necessary to put it out of action in order to enable:

5.1.1. the engine to be started by means of the normal control; and

5.1.2. the vehicle to be steered, driven or moved forward under its own power.

5.2. The requirements of paragraph 5.1. shall be met by the single application of one key.

the original column lock is still there, it's turned 180 degrees so is angled towards the front of the car and hidden behind the dash. Its in the original position, just turned 180 degrees.

Ok, I was talking to someone the other day and they mentioned you had to have a steering lock, David has the guff in a previous post. Cheers

No its not a pi$$ take! Its bolted on so looks ok to me

I tried to do this to mine, I had the original lock behind the dash with the ignition switch on the dash. But my engineer saw it, and told me it has to be locked and engine switched of with the one key.
Or a trans lock. I scoured all the wrecker and found a ignition steering lock that faced forward enough to fit through the dash.
JD

There is nothing that says you cant have 2 keys, the ignition lock and switch can still do both tasks, the switch providing power to the "start" key.

Dave

You would also need to wire it through the first switch, in case you started it and drove away forgetting to unlock the steering.
JD

Wow I haven't put an update since September, time flies when you're driving a Cobra!

The car ran at Nationals in October pretty much without issue, come to find out later that the ECU torque management was kicking in and was severly lacking power. That has been fixed and she flies now. Sadly the timing retardation from the torque management meant extremly high temp exhaust gases and the ceramic coating on the headers is knackered - will have to get that re-done. The car is on club reg, will look to have it engineered and full reg this year.

Ran a 1m:11s at Wakefield which I was chuffed with. The alignment needs a little work for further improvements and I need to harden up the Penskes a bit, I left them in the tuning shop delivered position of 20 out of 40 clicks, will turn them up a bit for Winton and see how it goes. The car squats at the rear nicely when booting it but I think it might actually be a bit too much squat. The braking power is unbelievable, combined with the sticky KU36 I am amazed at how hard this thing can stop.

I didn't do anything to the car over Christmas due to a bunch of reasons. It has done 2,000kms now. I had constant erratic speedo issues which I had fixed late last year by grounding the body of the ECU to the engine block and the speedo had been fine ever since. Last weekend on the club run down the Bellarine (see here for pics and report) without explanation it suddenly started behaving erratically again.

Just before the run last weekend I finally put the boot on the shifter;

https://bencobra.files.wordpress.com...5322706520.jpg

I spent a few nights this past week going over the car with a multimeter and checking resistance on all the earth points, couldn't really find anything wrong. The fuel gauge has also been less than ideally stable so I knew it was some sort of ground issue. I was positive that I had 2x6mm earth cables off the main fuse block but checking again I only had the one going back to the battery, so ran a second one from fuse block to engine block and went for a drive, speedo is stable again and I think the fuel gauge may be a bit more stable also. Before anyone asks yes there are three LARGE earth cables between engine/trans/battery/chassis, this issue was the earth from fuse block to battery/chassis.

Anyway, that little drive down Beach Rd this morning resulted in two firsts. First of all I had to use my wipers because there was a bit of a shower, shock horror! Glad they worked. Secondly, stopped for a coffee, then leaned in to the car to place the coffee on the trans tunnel and got SNAKEBITE from the hot pipes, aarggh! Not bad enough to leave a mark even but it still hurt, thank you ceramic coating for saving my leg :D

Next up, I have started making cardboard templates for aluminium door cards which will hold two more speakers and a door pocket. A roof and tonneau is on the cards in the next few months pending finances. I'm booked for the 5 day club run to Tasmania in November so these are a must!

Lovely work, very neat.

Nice to see you are getting out and enjoying it.

I'll have to CNC you up a fancy new gear lever Ben

Looking god Ben. Amazing how much difference all the little things make, isn't it, like to gear boot.

Re: the engineering, I mentioned this to my engineer the other day (your suggestion to me to my maybe get h-plates if VicRoads don't get back to me before the club run in March), and he wasn't sure that I'd be able to claim it as an ICV once I'd registered it on club plates. But I can't imagine that is really an issue - how else would you move from club to full plates? Unless it is still engineered but not as an ICV anymore?

Well I've had it with this speedo. Drove about 30kms this afternoon and it was perfect, then suddenly and without reason it does this



this thing is going in the bin and will be replaced with a Speedhut and a matching tacho.

Ben, for what it's worth, I have an issue with my Speedhut speedo. On two separate occasions, while cruising along, the odometer has climbed like a winning slot machine for no reason. I used to have 120km. Within a minute or so, I had just over 200km!

Need to sort it out. Not sure if it's the wiring or the gauge at the moment. :confused:

That's no good. Was the needle stable during that time?

My VDO speedo does the same thing when the sun is on it on a hot day.

Phil took a photo of us doing 200Km/h going down the Eastern on the way back from Barwon Heads last week.

I not sure whether its electrical/electronic or mechanical - I suspect mechanical as I got the gauge faces re-printed in a classic look. I think the needle is not returning when its hot due to rubbing on the face etc. Will get it fixed one day.

Hope you fine the problem with yours. You too Ben, Cheers Gregg

Me too. Same issue with my Speedhut, but only once so far.

I have my speedo wired in parallel with the ECU. While the VSS from the 'box issues ac current the ECU sends 5v dc back and I suspect might be the cause? I'm thinking of putting a diode on the line to block the 5v from the speedo, cause it only needs to reach the sensor anyway.

Also, I find this tidbit on Classic Intruments website about trouble shooting erratic speedos:

"To check if the erratic speedometer problem is caused by ignition noise (requiring shielding) or by the transmission, drive the vehicle until the speedometer becomes erratic, then shift into neutral and turn off the engine. Turn the key back on so that the speedometer has power going to it. If the speedometer is steady without the engine running, then the problem probably will be solved by shielding the speedometer. If the speedometer remains erratic without the engine running, the problem is in the transmission and might be solved by using the SN74 to buffer the signal."

I wonder if its the shape of the signal. e.g. AC vs DC/Pulse???

Normally when things count pulses they need a fast rising edge. Guy didn't you say you have a amplifier/shaper thingy?

cheers

Gregg

Im not real happy with my Speedhut gauges, oil pressure sender lasted about 2 months. Speedo is a Pr#ck to get into cal mode. I hate they way they go full sweep and back when you turn the ignition on, just IMHO. Im going VDO with the Smiths face change in my next car.......

Thanks for the feedback fellas, wow I thought Speedhut were decent. I might look for another brand!

I have the GPS speedhut speedo. But so far I haven't driven it. I like all the different settings, it even has a compass direction. I did have trouble with the huge nut holding it place, and there is no key or slot to stop it spinning around. Nice coloring at night. And I don't need to worry about calibration, only tunnels.
JD