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I know what you mean with the rear fixing nut. (Wasn't a problem with the small diameter gauges, just the 4"). I took to the threads with my micro-files and it runs nicely now. Allows me to get it nice and tight so spinning is not a problem now. Quote:
Apart from the odo glitch I mentioned in my earlier post, they're pretty good otherwise. And to be honest that odo thing has only happening to me once (touch wood). |
My engineer said the GPS speedo is ok. If anything , it's more accurate.
I had to file the threads, it jammed up real bad. I was thinking of drilling 2 holes in the back and using like a angle grinder spanner to hold it. I ended up using a chain vise grips. Wiring was really easy. I got the dimmer with mine. Also it has shift lights, and an external large shift light. JD |
I have a complete set of speed hut gauges in my car. I Have had no issue with them so far. The night visibility is outstanding. I originally had the GPS speedo but have since changed it out for the cable version. The reason was I just felt that there was a lag in the speedo display during acceleration and deceleration. Programing I felt was easy, and the only issue I ever encountered was electrical noise on the tacho which was easily resolved. I love the fact that they don't require much depth behind the dash, which was my main reason for buying them. No regrets so far. Their fuel gauge even works with my one wire fuel sender from an SD rover, and I have been able to calibrate it to give me full sweep of the gauge. I reckon they are great value for what you get.
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Put the car up on stands today to give the wheels a good wash and inspect everything underneath after hooning around Winton at ShelbyFest.
Nothing about to fall off, however it looks like my passenger side engine mount has shat it's guts, there's dry brown residue and it looks to have come out of the engine mount. Guess I will go looking for some Nolathane ones or similar. Typically OE rubbish, can't take track work abuse...sheeesh https://bencobra.files.wordpress.com...0877155124.jpg https://bencobra.files.wordpress.com...0877216279.jpg |
Wow I am going to have to check mine. So far so good though after 5 ShelbyFests and 4 Nationals. Mine are OE too.cheers Gregg
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Driving far too aggressively Ben. Need to slow down mate before you do your car some real mischief. :)
Cheers |
Here is what is in your LS engine mounts, and that is not all the oil, about 100ml came out!
https://bencobra.files.wordpress.com...4/img_6566.jpg https://bencobra.files.wordpress.com...4/img_6568.jpg https://bencobra.files.wordpress.com...4/img_6570.jpg https://bencobra.files.wordpress.com...4/img_6572.jpg https://bencobra.files.wordpress.com...4/img_6573.jpg |
was it both or just one side ben?
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just passenger side, very common on Commodores for them to fail apparently
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Geez, what a mess Ben.
Us Pace peeps have solid urethane/Nolathane mounts, so fortunately we won't have that issue. |
Bet it doesn't smell as bad as diff oil though, Ben?
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I had read they were oil filled for damping but hadn't seen one opened. Very interesting. I guess the passengers side of the motor is lifting under hard acceleration and trying to pull the chassis up with it. The mount has cried enough.
I might have to look at machining up some replacement ones for mine with urethane bushings. Cheers |
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I think you might need to do run of them... ...can think of at least 1 customer LB |
ive changed hundreds of these mounts while working at a workshop good idea in theory but in practice epic failure
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Magna's run a fluid rear mount 'cept its full of a thick opaque sticky fluid. Didn't make a mess - just dripped on the ground for a few weeks.
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My clutch woes continue. The clutch is not releasing properly at high rpm, seems it’s a common issue with the LS7 clutch, to do with the self-adjusting pressure plate.
The last ditch effort was to put in a 1” master cylinder, up from 7/8”, but to no avail. The pedal changed behaviour of course but the underlying problem remains. Now that I have read everything there is to read on this LS7 clutch, I take it they are a very heavy unit and it's robbing throttle response, so maybe it's a good thing that it will be going in the bin. Therefore the engine/trans is coming out and a monster stage II clutch will be going in. I need to take the exhaust off anyway to get the headers re-coated, and I want to anodize the aluminium heat shields rather than the current paint, might do a few other little things while the donk is out also, so it's not the end of the world. |
Consider a textralia too Ben. Best after sales service of any company Ive ever encountered. Fixed my clutch FOC after I buggered it by running the wrong pilot bearing - coincidently that was a similar symptom to what your seeing.
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Pilot bearing was suggested to me thanks Andrew. However it is the right one, there's only two sizes and it would be very hard to get wrong. I installed the bearing myself so I'm confident it is correct. How did you get it wrong?
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Modena
The LS7 clutch as fitted in the Z06 Corvette is normally very light. The only time I have had trouble with clutch slipping - say between high rpm gear changes - is when the clutch is depressed too far. The centrifugal forces of the diaphragm or fingers spinning at over 6000 rpm means that the diaphragm or fingers take a lot longer to clamp up on the clutch disc. I have experienced this ........either with clutch plate too thick, or too much travel on the slave cylinder. Standard LS7 clutch set up properly, should be good for 700hp. I would re-check dimensional specs........they can be critical. Muz |
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