That second hand job is the same setup that I got from the wrecker, but I wanted to go to a wrecker and spy them all because there are a couple of different revisions of driveshafts with different sized splines, so I used my original ones which still had part number stickers on them to ensure that I got the same revision. Never bothered looking on ebay for that reason, although perhaps I should have it would probably have been cheaper, that whole assembly from wrecker was $220, also I bought the whole assembly so I had the option of reco'ing the knuckle in case I could not get the nut off, anyway all good now.

prob a bit late now but I have a spare nut here off a ve driveshaft as well as a pair of shafts

There is no such thing as a bad welder, there are only bad grinders

Damn whiskey bottle, must be an OH&S issue there.

I don't have a lot of time this weekend, but managed to find an hour or so today, so finished one side of the headers by putting on the 2.5" downpipe, flange and O2 bung.

The keen-eyed will see I stuffed up and put the O2 bung on the wrong side so I added another one, will blank off the wrong one.

The effect seat-time has on your TIG ability is amazing

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Not an issue Ben, Use the other O2 bung when you hook up a wideband O2 sensor for tuning.

Looking good.

The roll bars are back from the powder coater in matt black, although to look at it I would call it more satin than matt, very happy with the finish from A Class PowderCoating in Moorabbin, thanks to Baz, very good value too and even with blasting, a zinc prime coat and twice in the oven all this was only $130

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Also I had the boot hinges blasted and coated as the welds needed reinforcing, or should I say, they needed welding! The bonnet hinges will get the same treatment when the bonnet comes off for engine install.

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The rear knuckle and driveshaft went back together, so this chapter is closed. This time I can spin the nut on all the way by hand, so all good there.

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Got the roll bars installed, they are 4mm wall thickness mild steel, and I sleeved them in the trunk to be able to get them in. The sleeve inside is 4mm wall chromoly.

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I am down two rubber grommets for the passenger side dress rings, because I used them on the third legs. I didn't like the fit of the oval rubber ones that came with the rings, but the round ones stretched out ok. Finishline are out of stock on these at the moment so they will go on later.


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I really need to clean up


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Last job today was the fuel tank went back in (again).So I can now finish the fuel lines and get the low pressure pump mounted.

Looks like you've been making some real progress lately.
Must be really satisfying to look back and see what you've accomplished.
Well done and keep the momentum rolling.
Congrats.

oh thanks Dimis I am spending plenty of time messing up the shed. I need to get out there tomorrow for 1-2 hours and do nothing but clean.....

Nice job of the fabrication of those roll bars and the headers at the start of the thread. I noticed those seats in the last shot , who supplies them or where do they come from.

Nick

Thanks Nick, the seats are from Classic and Sports Auto Interiors in Eltham, Tony O'Connell is great and makes good coffee :)

They are ADR approved, low, and very comfy.

I noticed the seats as well. Seats look great and the headrests are probably the best I've ever seen.
They're the only seats I've seen that I'd be happy to leave the headrests on permanently.
Keep the pictures coming.

Regards.

Yep - those headrests are "world class" :)

Love your work Ben.

Really nice work Ben, I second,third the head rests, they are great. I might have to do an upgrade .......

Cheers

Not much time this weekend, put on one AN fitting, started the heat shields, and tapped the fibreglass for a steering shaft bezel/grommet

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Nice work Ben. Progress is progress. What are the heat shields made from? How did you bend them?

Cheers

Hi Mike,

I decided to use aluminium, 1.6mm. I did a fair bit of reading on thermal conductivity and heat radiation, and from what I read aluminium will reflect heat better than stainless steel, and the "mirror" effect on some stainless does nothing to aid in heat reflection. If the shield was actually touching the hot parts (exhaust) then aluminium would not be good as it conducts physical transfer heat hugely, but with the air gap you are relying on radiation reflection and aluminium wins out there. I will discuss with my powdercoater if heat would be an issue on the finish as I want to powdercoat them, otherwise maybe anodize.

For bending I bought a 450mm brake press on ebay ages ago, makes lite work of aluminium up to 2mm, 1.6mm stainless is a chore but do-able, you wouldn't want to go any thicker with this thing. The bender looks exactly like this one on fleabay;

450mm X 1 5mm Steel Sheet Metal Folder Bender Bending Brake | eBay

oh I forgot to say, you can't see it in the picture but the fixings are M5 nutserts attached to the sheet, and then bolts through from the inside of the cockpit The nutserts are fixed from the engine bay side to the sheet so their length provides for 6mm air gap between metal panel and the body without the need for any extra spacer parts.

Love it... great idea. Not just a pretty face.

I put cork (tiles) between the aluminium heat shields and the foot boxes after someone on here suggested it. Never had an issue with hot feet.

Cheers