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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2014, 08:31 AM
Aussie Mike's Avatar
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Headers clear the steering just fine. One of the tubes has an extra bend to clear..

I think an AC compressor would be a very tight fit (The factory one at least). It may be possible to find a smaller unit from another car that would go in there.

Cheers
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Old 12-07-2014, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussie Mike View Post
I think an AC compressor would be a very tight fit (The factory one at least). It may be possible to find a smaller unit from another car that would go in there.

Cheers
The tightest fitting AC compressors for the LS engines are from a 2006-2010 ish Cadillac CTS-V. They had very little room between the rails and made a bracket that hugged the block.
I had to put one on the 6 litre when I put it in the Rodeo. Commodore one was way too wide to go even close.
It uses a smaller more compact Sanden type compressor.
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Old 12-08-2014, 03:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussie Mike View Post
...I think an AC compressor would be a very tight fit (The factory one at least). It may be possible to find a smaller unit from another car that would go in there.

Cheers
Mike, the 240Zs have a custom made bracket to mount the a/c as shown. The picture distorts it a bit - it doesn't protrude as much as appears.

If you are interested I can take some measurements and/or trace a template of the brackets.

itempany likes this.
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Old 12-08-2014, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterAllen View Post
Mike, the 240Zs have a custom made bracket to mount the a/c as shown. The picture distorts it a bit - it doesn't protrude as much as appears.

If you are interested I can take some measurements and/or trace a template of the brackets.

Looks like a neat fit Peter.

AC in a Cobra seems pretty pointless to me. It's only any good if you have a roof and I can't see me driving with any kind of roof.

I am tempted to fit AC to my Corvette though.

Cheers
boxhead and renovationinnov like this.
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Old 05-19-2015, 09:00 AM
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Been a long time between updates but I'm back into it now.

A lot of the work I've been doing has been pretty boring. Fiberglass repairs from where I cut holes in the wrong spot or changed mounting points etc.

I've been concentrating on getting the boot area sorted and then I'll be working my way forward in preparation for finishing the bodywork and paint. This means sorting out all those body mounting points brackets and roll bars etc.

Changing the way the roll bars mount to the chassis has meant some changes to the body mountings. The rear roll bar stays provide one of those mountings.

Most of the floor in the cabin and the boot is a sandwich construction for light weight and strength. Great stuff but the foam core means that you can crush it when bolting though it. To combat this I've been making aluminum bosses that act as a crush tube for all the hold down points. The the boss limits the amount the sandwich section can be crushed and transmits loads directly to the chassis. I've done this for seat mountings and harness attachment points etc.

Cutting neat accurate holes for the bosses has meant making some different drill guide tools that use the bolt holes to index the drill. This one let me cut the floor for the roll bar mounts. It only lets the hole saw through far enough to cut the fiberglass and not touch the chassis powder coat underneath.



The aluminum boss is then machined to be an exact for for the hole which doesn't allow the floor to move in any direction and limits the crush. It also means you can tighten any bolts down firmly to the chassis.

I had to change my roll bar rear stay mount design a little. It didn't allow enough up and down movement to easily get the rear stay installed into the socket in the hoop. It's not as pretty as the original setup but it's strong and will do the job. It should look better when polished at least.



Note some of the many patched up holes.

Sorting the roll bar mounts means I can fit the roll bar bezels. This was satisfying to finally see.



The other enjoyable job has been making the mounts for the quick jacks. When originally registered the car had no bumpers, just had plates to anchor the floor. The new mounts are made from 5mm stainless plate and should be plenty strong. The standoffs for the quick jacks are 3/4" aluminum rod that's drilled and threaded at both ends.



The lower rod mounts to the chassis under the floor. I reckon the whole thing would be strong enough to use the quick jacks for their intended purpose.

Here's one of the quick jacks mounted. These are home made. Chris L had some 6mm aluminum plate water jet cut for the profiles and I just welded them together. This one has been bead blasted. It was a finish I've been experimenting with. What do you think? This one is a bit dusty but the finish is a normally satin with a dull shine.



More fiberglass repairs where I originally made a mess of the lower quick jack mount hole. I made a nifty drilling guide for the quick jack holes to drill them accurately after the repairs. It should prove very handy for the front of the car where the holes go through an angled section of the body.

Cheers
Chris L, mate, gjkrv8 and 4 others like this.
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Last edited by Aussie Mike; 05-19-2015 at 09:08 AM..
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Old 05-19-2015, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterAllen View Post
Mike, the 240Zs have a custom made bracket to mount the a/c as shown. The picture distorts it a bit - it doesn't protrude as much as appears.

If you are interested I can take some measurements and/or trace a template of the brackets.

Peter, is your pulley set up for 5 or 6 rib belt? I assume 6? What is the belt code for this set up? SPK1875?

I've got some issues with my Daytona belt alignments and seeking to find an answer to make it work. I chew belts due to the AC pump being run using a 5pk pulley (off a suzi jimny diesel would you believe) and the rest being 6pk.
The Daytona guys were running a 6pk belt with a rib cut off manually to make it work. DODGY and not what I want for racing. Any suggestions would be super helpful.

Spookypt
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Old 05-19-2015, 06:29 PM
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Hi Spook,

Not sure if you know but the belt numbering system is actually fairly easy to interpret.

The part number you quote "SPK1875" should probably read 5PK meaning 5 rib. 4PK is 4 rib, 6pk is 6 rib etc. The following number is the length 1875mm

To work out the belt that will suit your application you just need to get a length of webbing, a tie down strap works well. Wrap it around the path the belt would take and mark it for length with the tensioner in the relaxed and compressed positions. Then just roll out the tie down strap and measure the length to the two marks. Then order a belt that is somewhere between the two.

The belts seem to go up in length of 5mm increments. Once you know the length and the number of ribs you can punch that into the Gates web page and get a bunch of cross reference part numbers or at least see if that size is available.

Gates Search

Bearing shops that stock gates will have universal belts available that you can just order based on that part number i.e 6PK1995 (6 Rib belt 1995mm long)

You can also search through some of their online catalogs and you might find the vehicle that belt suits. Buying them from automotive shops can often work out cheaper as the bearing supplies can charge a premium.

Gates Automotive cataligue

Hope this helps

Cheers
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