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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2016, 09:52 PM
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Default Clearance Issue Help!!!

Hi Guys...
I'm building an old GForce kit. I have Jag front and rear already in. Perfect fit...
I have dropped in a 302efi from a NC Fairlane but I have an issue. Firstly I will to remove original gearbox mount put in by force to help locate and lower g/box. But my issue is the egi manifold. My bonnet won't clear. It hit the manifold right where the ECG valve is...I need about 50mm of clearance to close bonnet properly. Even though when I eventually lower gearbox into correct position this still won't clear properly. Can anyone she'd some light on this... any elbows I could use. Anything?
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2016, 09:54 PM
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Can you show some pix so we can see the problem better?
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Old 05-23-2016, 10:13 PM
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Have a look at this build thread. G Force with a 5.0l injected motor, maybe contact Slowy and ask for help.

A miracle....Slowy's cobra update
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Old 05-23-2016, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bohemath777 View Post
Hi Guys...
I'm building an old GForce kit. I have Jag front and rear already in. Perfect fit...
I have dropped in a 302efi from a NC Fairlane but I have an issue. Firstly I will to remove original gearbox mount put in by force to help locate and lower g/box. But my issue is the egi manifold. My bonnet won't clear. It hit the manifold right where the ECG valve is...I need about 50mm of clearance to close bonnet properly. Even though when I eventually lower gearbox into correct position this still won't clear properly. Can anyone she'd some light on this... any elbows I could use. Anything?
I put this plenum into my GT40 because of the same sort of issue you are having with your cobra, the top part of the manifold plenum section is too tall,wide and ugly IMHO. This set up works really well with the standard manifold on the 5.0L Windsors and gives you more than 100mm clearance from the standard manifold that you have now. You can just re-use your std throttle body and problem solved, no engine mount changes, or stuffing around with elbows etc..
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Old 05-23-2016, 11:49 PM
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I'd need to go back and try and find out what engine mounts I used but suspect that might be a starting point for you. Wrong mounts and the engine would be standing taller in the engine bay.

As Albanycobra has linked, my 5L with the standard plenum fits easily.

My only bonnet clearance issue is that the outer moulded rail on the underside of the bonnet has been touching the intake tube.

It hits just on the bend just before the plenum intake point as seen on the second pic in the link.

A quick look in my file and have found the invoice for a pair of Mackay engine mounts ,Burson part A1140. I've hand written Ford Falcon, Fairlane 8 cylinder 1966 onwards as the source.

Does this help?
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Last edited by stephen low; 05-23-2016 at 11:52 PM..
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Old 05-24-2016, 09:39 PM
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Guys thanks so much for your speedy input... I used standard mounts more or sits pretty. I have a 10mm gap between oil filter and chassis rail. So goin lower may not be an option here. My friend has a newer GeForce kit and same donk and it clears only just. There is however a difference on the inner skin of his bonnet than mine... Perhaps a different manifold may do the trick. I will look into it further...but again thanks so much for help. Ps I will try and post some pics of the clearance issue.... If I can work out how to post them lol...
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Old 05-24-2016, 10:52 PM
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What oil filter are you running? If you have a Z9 fitted swap it to a Z89a that's the shorter AU falcon 5.0l filter and will buy you 40 or 50mm.
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Old 05-24-2016, 11:01 PM
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My cobra has a BA GT bonnet bulge grafted onto the bonnet as I am running Eidelbrock injection on a 5L SVO, jag front and rear, standard engine mounts.
Very tight bonnet to intake clearance but just enough.
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Old 05-24-2016, 11:45 PM
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Or use a remote filter kit??? They pretty cheap as well
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Old 05-25-2016, 01:27 AM
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Yes I've also got a remote filter set up.

This as I could only fit the small Z filter in-situ straight off the block without hitting the chassis.

But also because I am using the standard AU oil cooler which necessitated use of a sandwich plate anyway.

Work at lowering the engine first though as this will help car balance.

Use of a remote filter or even grafting say a slightly larger scoop are jobs that could be done later without great difficulty.
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Old 05-25-2016, 11:15 PM
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Default Ongoing clearance

So I get this right...
Use remote oil setup?
Lower engine via lower engine mounts?
Shollower sump to gain ground clearance?
Perhaps modify inner bonnet skin?
I looked up Elderbrock Victor, but showed me intake manifolds...
Do I need a lower intake or a different plenum and air intake setup?
Sump and ground clearance at the moment looks right...
I'm really not wanting to lower engine, I need to shave the 40mm off the height off bonnet and plenum combined....
Hahaha the torture never stops guys...
This is joy of building something like this...
Loving it, loving the fact you guys are out there...
Cheers
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Old 05-26-2016, 12:05 AM
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I believe
engine mounts for XW-XY will do the trick,
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Old 05-26-2016, 12:13 AM
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Hi bohemath777
PM sent
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Old 05-26-2016, 01:51 AM
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Hey Lex...
Can you please tell me how to view your PM.
Apologies as I'm new to this forum...
Is emailing me direct easier.
Pettas66@Gmail.Com
Again apologies for the hassle.
Love your input in helping me out. ��
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Old 05-26-2016, 04:04 PM
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Just go to the top of this page and there's a horizontal narrow mid blue menu bar in the top box, with : Portal, UserCP, Blogs, FAQ etc... Hit UserCP and you get a dropdown menu, and select Private Messages at the top.

From here you can receive and send messages.

I common fix for your issue in the early days was to cut a large relief hole in the bonnet and fit a wider scoop - as per factory DRB.

I reckon its worth the trouble to lower the engine and or change manifolds. Achieves a far better look. If your only after 40mm, a bit here and a bit there shouldn't be too hard to find.

Some guys used to cut one of the rubber layers out from an XY mount and weld the mounting plate back to the middle plate, then drill through the centre and fit a 7/16 bolt with lock nut just a thread or two from tight for good measure. This bolt set up was an old speedway trick to prevent the engine from tearing loose if the mount failed.
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