Engine mounts

boxhead · #1 (**permalink**) 07-09-2004, 11:32 PM

Helo everyone
Well as you know I am fitting the engine and gearbox to the chassis today, well I have finished assembleing the engine, I have fitted the gearbox and brand new genuine mounts and aluminium mount brackets, but when I lowered it all onto the chassis the mounting holes dont line up with the mounts.

The holes are about 35 mm to close together, also if the koles where the right distance apart then the mounts will be very close to the chassis.

Are they all like this?

boxhead · #2 (**permalink**) 07-10-2004, 06:32 AM

Well I have been working on the mounts and from what I can guess at is that when Holden buy the LS1 engine they come with a mounting ear on the L/H side of the engine, I am guessing it is the same as used in a chev of some description.
My motor still had the L/H ear on the block so I purchased a VX Commodore R/H side ear and 2 rubber mounts.
When I have sat the engine on the chassis rails the mounts were a total of 55mm out wider than the holes as drilled in the frame, I couldnt re-drill new holes out wider on the frame as the rubber mounts would contact the inner chassis main chanel.
So I drilled the aluminium ears with new mounting holes 12.5 mm further in and redrilled the fram 15mm further in on each side giveing me 55mm total.
I again lowered the engine to the chassis and everything went in fine.
When I crawled under the engine to tighten the engine mount bolts properly I can see that the oil filter bracket contacts the engine mount tab that is welded to the chassis.
So again I jumped up from under the engine and looked around at what else is out of alignment.
What I have found is that the whole engine is 30mm to the L/H side (when measured against the shock towers).
What I can see is that the R/H mount (commodore) is longer that the L/H mount (American).
Do you guys think that I probably need the R/H mount that is likely fitted to the Chev product?
I cannot use the Chev sump as there is a crossbrace under the sump in the dip where the Commodore front crossmember normally is.
The question I have is to the Classic Revival builders who are part of the dark side.
When your chassis was supplied were the engine mount locations allready welded to the chassis and if so where did you get your engine from, ie wreckers(commodore) or Suburban imports (chev imported engine), If you bought the engine from importers did it allready have both mounting ears?

Sorry about the long winded story but I am hopeing someone can see what I am trying to say and help me.

P.S I have added some new pics to my gallery showing the engine and mount alignment.

Cobra.au · #3 (**permalink**) 07-10-2004, 07:37 AM

Hi Boxhead,
After reading your post it got me thinking as I was the first one to put a LS1 into a classic revival and I supplied Ian with a Corvette engine (winged sump) that came with USA engine mount brackets already on it to work out the chassis mounting points and all I bought localy was the rubber mounts that mabey he is still using the measurments from my motor which may not be the same as the Aussie LS1.
When I go to work on Monday I will have a look on one of my spare Aussie motors and let you know if there is any differance with the mounting brakets.

Craig W

Aussie Mike · #4 (**permalink**) 07-10-2004, 08:55 AM

Hi David,

I'm using a pair of Corvette mounting ears for my motor and I got them when I bought my motor from Eagle.

You will probably find that the left and right Holden mounts are different. I seem to remember one of them is the same dimensions as the Corvette mounts and you need to run 2 left hand ones or 2 right hand mounts or something like that. Ian should be able to tell you.

Check and see if your mounts will swap left to right and check if they are the same size.

Is there a gen 3 Commodore in the work shop you can look at to compare?

Cheers

boxhead · #5 (**permalink**) 07-10-2004, 06:34 PM

The mount that comes with the engine from the states is the left hand side.
I had another one of these at work so I went in last night and got it thinking the same as you Mike that it is probably the same,
sadly it canot be used as there are no mounting holes in the block that will alow it to line up with the frame mounts.

boxhead · #6 (**permalink**) 07-10-2004, 06:37 PM

Craig if you have any spare mounts for the Corvette motors are you willing to sell one?

Also after Phils offer with the clutch and flywheel I have a near new (15000kl) auto trans flex plate for LS1 that is free to whoever wants it.

Cobra.au · #7 (**permalink**) 07-10-2004, 07:24 PM

Sorry Boxhead my 2 spare motors are Aussie ones

boxhead · #8 (**permalink**) 07-10-2004, 07:28 PM

No worries had to ask.

pneall · #9 (**permalink**) 07-11-2004, 06:10 PM

I had same problem as I used local Gen 111.

Eagle bring in the Corvette mount about $100.00 I think.

Ian may also have some in stock.

Is your chassis notched to allow alternator clearance. Mine wasn't but its an easy fix.

Reagards,

Phil

boxhead · #10 (**permalink**) 07-11-2004, 08:23 PM

yeah my chassis has been notched allready.
I didnt think to ring Ian if he had any mounts. I will call him now.

What other bits should I get that cannot be sourced elswhere?
Ie dash panel, pedals, Do I need a front or rear sway bar?

pneall · #11 (**permalink**) 07-11-2004, 08:42 PM

Ian is running a new pedal set with some offset to left to allow use of rose joint for clutch adjustment. I added extra offset to clutch and brake pedal to give more room around accelerator. Check out Mikes gallery for pic. If you just buy blanks from Ian its easier to bend. Accelerator pedal is from AU falcon but needs work.

Ian makes FRP and Carbon Fibre dash. I went with FRP and covered but would probably just cut up some aluminium sheet if I did it again.

I think you only need front sway bar but wouldnt recommend Ians as I dont like using Jaguar mounting points.

SAAS in Melb make a nice seat.

Get all your bright stuff gas cap, bumpers windscreen and especially side air vents from Don Pilling at Snakebite in QLD. The quality is fantastic.

Phil

Leeroy · #12 (**permalink**) 07-11-2004, 11:26 PM

I agree with Phil I have used Don on most bright works and they are great. I had my swaybar made locally by giving a pvc rod replica of what I wanted, just got all the mounts etc. and bolted rod in place and with a heat gun bent it into the correct postion to mount to linkage points on front end.worked a treat and ended up costing around $200 all up. Do you have a spring works or heat treater in town who might do it. I also used the f/glass dash and had it painted the same as body and it looks great. I also used corvett mounts and it dropped straight in, with the chassis cut away did that mean you could use holden mounts for altenator? I made one up as no cut away on mine.
Cheers Leeroy

boxhead · #13 (**permalink**) 07-12-2004, 02:26 PM

Yeah Leeroy, my chassis has been notched for the Holden alternator mount to fit straight on.
I spoke with Ian yesterday and he has no mounts but says I can get mine modified to suit, so I will take it to a welding works and get them to shorten it.

Sloth · #14 (**permalink**) 07-17-2004, 03:51 AM

Boxhead. For what it is worth my engine came from the states with Chev truck mounts attached (bought from Eagle Auto). We purchased two commodore mounts (VX/VY from memory - can get you part numbers probably) and they fit fine.

cheers.

boxhead · #15 (**permalink**) 07-17-2004, 08:47 PM

Hey there Sloth, yeah I bought a new R/H VX mount but it didnt fit.
The local welding company modified the one I bought (Moved the bolt hole for the rubber mount 55mm closer on the same paralel (sic)) and it fell straight on

I made a gearbox mount yesterday but am not happy with it as I feel the gearbox sits too hi at the rear now.
I will make another one next