Yahoo- It's finally arrived.

[Baz]

Come on fellas, give me SOME credit. Of course I had the camera with me, but unfortunately only of the film variety. I took a sh##t load of photos which are in being developed as we speak. Neil took some with his digital. When he emails them to me, I'll put them into this post as soon as someone explains to me "How to post digital photos into the Chat Forum?"

Rebel 1, you said not to rip the body off the chassis yet and to let it settle for a while. How long do you suggest before I separate the two. I am sending the chassis to have it laser checked for squareness etc. etc. then powder coated and painted. At the same time, the body will be going to the paint shop to be prepared and painted internally, engine bay and underneath.

At our request, RMC haven't included any mounts for the LS2. We are welding them on when we work out the exact positioning for the motor, bearing in mind that it's having a 6 speed Trptronic HSV auto behind the donk, all brand new crated stuff.

I can get a photo under the bonnet with footbox views if you like, but seeing that there are no mounts attached, would that achieve anything?

Baz.

[Rebel1]

Baz, don't get the chassis work done yet.

I have found the sort of chassis work you refer is best left to the end.

Certainly have it laser checked but leave the painting till later.

You may well want to weld bits and pieces or make changes that would ruin your chassis finish. However, I am not familiar with the inclusions on latest chassis but essentially mine is an early version of your chassis. Still the twin side rail type but they now may well include some bits left off. Handbrake mount for instance. RMC used to just mount the lever to the glass tunnel and you'd almost rip it off in use.....I welded a bracket to the chassis to which the handle mounts.

I have also found the Jag diff mounting varies from chassis to chassis. I had to drill mine to properly fit the diff center. A friend of mine was impatient fitting his diff and fitted it as the factory recommends. He can no longer get the diff out of the car.

You will also find the RMC has a very narrow tunnel. This is good as it makes for a wide footbox and extra width for seats, but makes fitting later gearboxes a bit of a challenge needing some metalwork.

Fitting the L76 has been easy with the only modification being a rework of the alternator position. This is not unusual with the chev as the alternator is mounted to the lower left of the engine right where the chassis steps up over the steering rack.

You may want to also cut the inside top corners off the footboxes to give you a bit more room to get at spark plugs and decent bends on your headers.

If you want any advice re this give me a yell.

[Baz]

Originally Posted by Rebel1

Baz, don't get the chassis work done yet.

I have found the sort of chassis work you refer is best left to the end.

Certainly have it laser checked but leave the painting till later.

You may well want to weld bits and pieces or make changes that would ruin your chassis finish. However, I am not familiar with the inclusions on latest chassis but essentially mine is an early version of your chassis. Still the twin side rail type but they now may well include some bits left off. Handbrake mount for instance. RMC used to just mount the lever to the glass tunnel and you'd almost rip it off in use.....I welded a bracket to the chassis to which the handle mounts.

I have also found the Jag diff mounting varies from chassis to chassis. I had to drill mine to properly fit the diff center. A friend of mine was impatient fitting his diff and fitted it as the factory recommends. He can no longer get the diff out of the car.

You will also find the RMC has a very narrow tunnel. This is good as it makes for a wide footbox and extra width for seats, but makes fitting later gearboxes a bit of a challenge needing some metalwork.

Fitting the L76 has been easy with the only modification being a rework of the alternator position. This is not unusual with the chev as the alternator is mounted to the lower left of the engine right where the chassis steps up over the steering rack.

You may want to also cut the inside top corners off the footboxes to give you a bit more room to get at spark plugs and decent bends on your headers.

If you want any advice re this give me a yell.

Thanks for the info Rebel, you've told me everything except how to post my photos? HELP!!!!!

Baz