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wiring 101 & in car fire control measures
Ah who's been reading the Prince of Darkness wiring manual eh???;)
Just make sure you get the connections right on the light re-adsorbers so that your system recharges at night rather than discharging.:D However building those special stainless fire retension walls into the car is a good idea, as they will limit how far any smoke and fire might spread in case of a poor or faulty wiring effort.:eek: I hadn't though about stainless in terms of those benefits, maybe I should get Marty to make me some fire shields.:LOL::LOL: The things you learn on this forum. |
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Will do with the light re-adsorbers...:LOL: |
The far queue is over there sir!
Hey Paul the ticket I'm holding says number 1!!!:LOL::LOL::LOL:
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Thought I'd add a few more pics. Stainless vent louvers courtesy Rob H., extractors and a shot of the engine bay. I was in a hurry so the exposure is all off and you can't really see the foot boxes properly. It's a vast improvement over the standard look though.
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/9...5670005725.jpg http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/6001/...5670005725.jpg http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/3033/...5670005725.jpg |
Brought the car home from Kenmer a few weeks ago and will begin tackling the body wiring this weekend.
For those who never saw the old shed... http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...2172_50pct.jpg ...we've upgraded! :D http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...m/IMG_4245.jpg A new work bench arrives Friday, with beer fridge and various other "man gadgets" ready to go. Happy times! :) |
Scored power steering pump, reservoir, alternator, idler pulley and brackets off a low kms VE C'dore for $150 yesterday, very happy with that! Need to chase up VZ brackets for the alt and p/steer and I should be right.
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Thought I would share an idea for fellow Harrison builders, with particular relevance to those using Sideshow's LS engine loom conversion.
The photos below show the passenger footwell with two aluminium panels mounted with nutserts for easy removal. The top panel holds the Holden ECU and the bottom section is a swing-down panel where I've mounted the engine loom fuses and relays. It makes good use of the available space and is sturdy enough to mount upholstery at a later date. If anyone in Melbourne has a right-angle drill I could borrow for a few hours, I'd love to hide that exposed hinge as I have for the other one. Clearance is about 100mm at the lowest point. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...m/IMG_4454.jpg http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...m/IMG_4453.jpg |
Great minds think alike! I made a fold down fuse box in the same place, even put a light in there to be able to see!
Merv |
Good work Paul,
I have a right angle drill you can borrow. It's an air powered unit and pretty compact. Good for getting into sight spots. Let me know if you want it and you can come grab it. Cheers |
Merv, did you go the whole hog with a door switch to make it come on?
Thanks Mike. I'm showing that one to the book keeper - the case for an air compressor is building! Any recommendations for a good, smallish unit? |
I have a GMC which does the job, tank is to small for long-term use of air ratchet, but its got the punch for rattle gun work. I think it was about $150 from Bunnings. Does the job, but if I was doing it again I would up the ante to around $500 and get a belt driven one.
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Thanks Modena. What kit do you have by the way? Any pics? :)
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don't have one.....yet
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No Sambo - it IS a Cobra - I have switch on the side panel that turns on a light in there.
Merv |
Sambo,
Supercheap auto had a 200l/m compressor on sale for $229 with air hose and some tools. I think the sale ended today, but looked like a reasonable deal for a cheapy. It would be worth going and having a look to see if they will still do the deal. If you are using air grinders or spraying (especially with HVLP gun) you need at least 200l/m and even that would run non stop with high consumption tools. I think they say that for spraying with HVLP you need about 300l/m free air and about 70 to 100lt tank. I currently use my old man' s, its a 235l/h free air direct drive and it works fine, just struggles with the die grinder. My local supercheap has a 2.75hp belt driven that is about 230l/m for about $299. Its old stock so i am going in tomorrow to see if i can negotiate it down a bit as it is floor stock with no box. Will be my chrisy present from the leader of the opposition party.. oops i mean the wife! To buy a decent compressor you need to spend about $1000 - $1200 for air grinders and spraying. I just can't justify that cost for use of a couple of hours every few months, especially when i am scraping together every penny to spend on the build (dont want to scimp). You can also consider hiring one from Kennards. Liam |
A mate of mine has rigged a decent belt driven air compressor to a couple of lpg tanks (old car ones) and he uses this for painting cars.
With the 2 lpg tanks he has enough air to go around the car and it refills between coats. |
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Thats a good way to get rid of old bottles. I have a D size mig gas bottle laying around that i might hook up.
Thanks for the idea! |
I use an old 100 pound LPG household bottle for an extra air reservoir.
The fitting that screws into the (normally) gas outlet from a hardware store, other end of it is 1/4" BSPT. Add a tee piece and couplers and taps to suit your needs. It's quite handy to chuck in the station wagon or van when I need air in the paddock for small jobs. It's even better in the shed because the compressor isn't kicking in and out all the time and it's just what I need to get the die grinder spinning happily. Doesn't take up much floor space either. |
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