Build update
 

I've just updated my gallery with some new photos of the build. Over the past few weeks the car has been at Kenmer and I've fitted the LS7 clutch and flywheel to the engine. The T56 got a Mal Wood remote bleed line and braided filler line before bolting up to the engine.

Once we had the engine where we wanted it, Marty welded up a bracket for the gearbox and we're using the VZ Commodore flexible mount, as shown below (tacked up, not finished). There's plenty of room in the Harrison for the 4" cats and exhaust to run beside the 'box.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...m/IMG_3847.jpg

Further plans include tidying up the tops of the foot boxes to remove rivets that you see below and give it a 'smoother' look. Engine bay will be strictly business in gloss black (minus all the dust!).

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...m/IMG_3859.jpg

We've got the drivetrain quite low to help with centre of gravity but without giving up too much ground clearance. It really is begging for a supercharger on top. :)

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...m/IMG_3858.jpg

I thought I would show the forklift technique that I believe Shelby used back in the day. Slowy's lending a hand here, having a rare moment with 6.0L of GM's finest.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...m/IMG_3782.jpg

The next few jobs will see my XF pedal box lined up properly, fly by wire go pedal installed, clutch master cylinder setup behind the firewall and gearbox shifter relocated forwards of the black gaffer tape you see below, along with a shorter shifter upgrade.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...m/IMG_3863.jpg

Then wiring, cooling system, fueling, tailshaft... :D

Keep going
 

SAMBO,

Looks great, very familiar:D There is not much difference between them chassis wise. A bit easier to do the dash in the Cobra:JEKYLHYDE



STIFFY

Only helping...not engine admiring!
 

Paul you bugga I forgot about those pictures. :cool:

For the record gang, no I'd stick with the Ford Windsor engine, boat anchor and all for the Cobra. :D

The above decision particularly in line with Boxheads recent thread contribution and a line within the song or at least a crude adaptation of it - "Winnie blue my choice of smoke maker." :LOL::LOL:

However I'd be highly tempted with one of those 427 - 454 Chev variants out there in that Ultima I'd love to build. :eek::eek::eek:

Now where's that tax cheque gone???

Keep at it Paul and you'll see mine there this week with luck too - woo hoo!!

Sambo, looks great.

I must admit I really enjoyed all of thsoe things you ar about to do.

I want to get along to Kenmer to speak to a painter there that Slowy mentioned to me.

Rgds

Gregg

Gregg, I had a chat with Greg (that's his name) the painter at Kenmer last week and I've had a good look at a Cobra he did 7 years ago and it has held up very well. He talked me through his process and it was obvious that he takes a lot of care with the work - to the point where he won't allow owners to do any of the prep work themselves. I guess you'll be able to see the results of Slowy's respray pretty soon.

Nice Sambo, really nice!

Regards.

PLEASE, reconsider the black engine bay. Ok if the car is black. But it always looks "tired" after a while because black is so hard to keep clean. It shows dirt like a neon light. Think about body colour or a contrasting colour. The lighter the colour will reveal any leaks or spills so you can fix them earlier before they become bad.
Just my opinion. I've painted my chassis silver for that reason and the engine bay is body colour.
Regards , Rob Smith

Hey Rob
The Stainless Steel sheet lining in my engine bay is easy to keep clean and looks neat IMHO.
Rgds
Terry :)

Rob, speaking to Marty last night and he suggested stainless heat shields over the tunnel and scatter plate area, so it might end up more like what Steeler suggested above.

Got any photos of your engine bay Steeler?

Paul

Depending on your planned body colour perhaps using this colour in the engine bay.

Wait till you see mine in terms of how a colour brings it up. Obviously mine is a bright colour but I think even a mid colour would still be great and a dark colour would look good just not be as servicable for the reasons mentioned earlier.

I like the look of stainless covers but am less a fan for all that extra weight.

This is probably less an issue for your car but mine weighed in at around 1250kg for engineering I think. I've yet to add paint, 2 x rollbars, fake side pipes, uphosltery and whatever else to finish it off.

Could be closer to 1400kg at the end hence my reluctance. The fat porker driver is enough extra weight to begin with!

I do, send me your E mail :)

Build update
 

Looking good Paul! Great to see a General-ly accepted motor being fitted.
Go the dark side!!!:LOL:

Mick

I cut out all the fibreglass and went stainless on the guards... I covered the footboxes with stainless and left a 5mm air gap between the stainless and the fibreglass as a heat shield no heat insulation inside and its as cool as a cucumber inside. Go stainless it's easy to clean
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/s...3&ppuser=33566

Sorry fella's
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/data/500/cobra_106.JPG[/img]

Still Having trouble dropping photo's down sorry

Thanks Mick. Love the metal work on your foot boxes and firewall. Have you started that beast yet?

Thanks, another good idea. Only the tops of my foot boxes are fibreglass, the rest is powder coated steel so I wonder whether it would have the same cooling effect? Eg, steel underneath will conduct heat a lot better than fibreglass I would assume?

This is a photo of when I was building it. Its been on the road for a couple of years... got second best cobra at the nationals last year.. Sambo the stainless is 0.7mm thick it has what they call a number 4 polish which isn't actually a polish its a very fine linish. My worry with polished stainless is that it would be too shiny and be like a mirror and reflect things that shouldn't be seen ie. the top of footboxes reflect the underside of the fibreglass... I think you could cover the footboxes over the steel and fibreglass. the best way to fix it is with stainless cap bolts. Just put the bolt through the hole wind a nut up to the back of the stainless then fix it on to the require area. The nut directly on the back of the stainless acts as the spacer and gives you that air gap for heat dispersion..... I know its sounds easy... I cut all of mine out of cardboard first and used them as the template.....
All the Best Sambo
Cheers Mark

Paul,
thanks mate.
No haven't started it yet. Still wiring at the moment, trying to do a good job as I would really like to keep the smoke inside the wires...

Mick