Quote:
Originally Posted by native1
Greg your car is very fast what is your rwhp/rwtq. If I could run that fast it would be sweeeet. Only have 1/8 mile here. I really want 1/4 mile.
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Get some Mickey Thompson ET street drag radials in the 275/60 15, run 20-22psi. It's the best performance mod for street driving you can do. Your HP would put you in the 10s easy with a 1.7 60ft or better on a cool day in VA. Just start from idle and nail it. You don't need to break stuff on the start. MPH tells the real story anyway. Once you get your 60ft time you can always go back and figure 1/4 time potential.
I went through pretty much the same routine as your engine set up, but I started with a Victor Jr intake as it came on the 427R. I put on a larger size fuel line and kept the mechanical pump, good fuel filter, different 3" core side pipes, 2" primary headers, Pro-Systems carb(a bit over 1000 cfm), more surface on air filter. I'm at
475 rear wheel and a huge wide torque curve at about 460. That's corrected with the standard SAE deal. Any respectable shop is going to use a corrected SAE formula from one day to the next so the results are comparable. I'm sure your shop did the same. Usually the dyno sheet says right on it stuff like the corrected factor to make alike comparisons, conditions of air and stuff like how much smoothing they used to make the graph look nice. Zero or 0 smoothing would be the nice for analyzing things. The air fuel ratio is a big factor too and pretty critical to have.
If you go from one day to the next with the same jets in a carb and exact set up, but different weather the car is going to be better one of those days because of the air fuel ratio. It sounds like you're probably getting better flow with those pipes. Being that the weather was warmer you need less fuel for the air, but being that the pipes probably move a bit more air it sort of balanced out. If you had your air fuel ratio graph that would help quite a bit to answer things.
Unrelated to the dyno, but another thing is Cobras have pretty bad coefficient of drag and a huge drag of resistance if say over 100 mph. The faster you go the leaner the jetting becomes if the car is really moving. I calculated out about 130 HP to push the car around 115 mph. It's stuff to think about depending on the purpose of the car. 1/4 mile drag racing gives the engine a short time in 4th gear were it would be most lean, but you want that air fuel sufficient for the safety of the engine. An air fuel from a 4th gear Dynojet pull might be pretty good for drag race tuning. I'm sure there are many variables.
I'd be really interested to see your SRTW with Victor Jr. intake dyno sheet to see the torque range and power curve vs. the 427R-095. Then again we have different exhaust, so the comparison is sort of mixed. I did get a wider torque curve with the Buckshot Racefab side pipes. Roush runs 2" primary headers and open end collectors for their engine test, or at least that's what they told me when I asked.
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