Kirk! We're under attack!! Suspension help.

[Wisconsin_Snake]

I take it that the front sway bar is the one that came with the kit.. Ditch that as it's made for a Bronco and WAY to hefty for a Cobra... It's 1.25" I think... Handling will improve tremendously. This is per DV...
The CR should have something like a 7/8" bar. If you find one that fits. let me know what it's out of..
It's the lower arms and going to a-arms that's supposed to be the next upgrade, but if you are doing that, the upper A's might as well get updated to.

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by Wisconsin_Snake

I take it that the front sway bar is the one that came with the kit.. Ditch that as it's made for a Bronco and WAY to hefty for a Cobra... It's 1.25" I think... Handling will improve tremendously. This is per DV...
The CR should have something like a 7/8" bar. If you find one that fits. let me know what it's out of..
It's the lower arms and going to a-arms that's supposed to be the next upgrade, but if you are doing that, the upper A's might as well get updated to.

Why would a Mustang II suspension have a Bronco anti-sway bar? That makes no sense to me. My suspension is M2, and the bar is nowhere near 1.25" O.D. - though mine is a WCC, not a CR II.

[RedHawk]

Originally Posted by Wisconsin_Snake

I take it that the front sway bar is the one that came with the kit.. Ditch that as it's made for a Bronco and WAY to hefty for a Cobra... It's 1.25" I think... Handling will improve tremendously. This is per DV...
The CR should have something like a 7/8" bar. If you find one that fits. let me know what it's out of..
It's the lower arms and going to a-arms that's supposed to be the next upgrade, but if you are doing that, the upper A's might as well get updated to.

Okay I'll look and see what the specs are. That's rediculous.
Thanks.

[rbgray1]

Originally Posted by RedHawk

Okay I look and see specs. That's rediculous.
Thamks.

RedHawk,

I'm currently doing the same exact updates and in final stages of picking Heidt's.

You are correct, there are 2 different types of coil overs for Mustang II suspensions,

the first and easier upgrade changes Upper and Lower a arms, the lower still maintains the strut bar or not (your choice, you'd need to weld a bracket for a lower tubular a arm if you want to eliminate the strut Rod). This set-up uses the "stock" upper coil spring perch and shock mount while the lower A-Arm hold the adjustable coil over and shock. Fairly quick and easy if you elect to keep the lower strut arm, just replace with a tubular unit with poly bushings.

The second and a little more involved is to go to "true" coil overs where you also need to cut off the upper "stock" spring perch and shock mount and weld in a new upper coil over shock mount or perch. Your coil overs in this set-up would then have a single bolt in the upper mount and a single bolt in the lower a - arm. I don't think these are done to our cars very often due to complexity of suspension geometry. If you weld the new upper perch in wrong, suspension geometry will be affected. This is not very difficult to do, just requires patience and good measurements. I'm I-Car certified welder and have my own TIG and MIG machines, so I'm not worried about that.

I'm leaning to #2 as I think it's a cleaner look and I believe provides more adjustability options. Also, one of the fundamental problems with MII suspensions that I have never liked is when you take weight of the front suspension (when the frame is supported by a lift or jackstands), the downstop that carries ALL of the unsprung weight of the car is the upper shock bushing. In stock MII cars, this frequently destroys the upper shock bushing and also can damage the internal shock valving if left for extended periods (Like 4-6 months of storing on jack stands to eliminate tire flat spots).

Is this what you were referring to?

[RedHawk]

Originally Posted by rbgray1

RedHawk,

I'm currently doing the same exact updates and in final stages of picking Heidt's.

You are correct, there are 2 different types of coil overs for Mustang II suspensions,

the first and easier upgrade changes Upper and Lower a arms, the lower still maintains the strut bar or not (your choice, you'd need to weld a bracket for a lower tubular a arm if you want to eliminate the strut Rod). This set-up uses the "stock" upper coil spring perch and shock mount while the lower A-Arm hold the adjustable coil over and shock. Fairly quick and easy if you elect to keep the lower strut arm, just replace with a tubular unit with poly bushings.

The second and a little more involved is to go to "true" coil overs where you also need to cut off the upper "stock" spring perch and shock mount and weld in a new upper coil over shock mount or perch. Your coil overs in this set-up would then have a single bolt in the upper mount and a single bolt in the lower a - arm. I don't think these are done to our cars very often due to complexity of suspension geometry. If you weld the new upper perch in wrong, suspension geometry will be affected. This is not very difficult to do, just requires patience and good measurements. I'm I-Car certified welder and have my own TIG and MIG machines, so I'm not worried about that.

I'm leaning to #2 as I think it's a cleaner look and I believe provides more adjustability options. Also, one of the fundamental problems with MII suspensions that I have never liked is when you take weight of the front suspension (when the frame is supported by a lift or jackstands), the downstop that carries ALL of the unsprung weight of the car is the upper shock bushing. In stock MII cars, this frequently destroys the upper shock bushing and also can damage the internal shock valving if left for extended periods (Like 4-6 months of storing on jack stands to eliminate tire flat spots).

Is this what you were referring to?

Yes. See although Ive been welding since I was 5, 45 now, I still just play one on TV. I do have a speed shop that has a TIG&MIG they said I could use or pay them to do. Probably will do the latter.

If I'm hearing you wrong my appologies but what if I juat replaced the whole set for something like this except the Wilwood brake set up that I already have in place?

Plus does it look like coil over QA1 will simply bolt on at the back of 8.8 rear or do you think there will be clearance issues?

Thanks!

[rbgray1]

Originally Posted by RedHawk

Yes. See although Ive been welding since I was 5, 45 now, I still just play one on TV. I do have a speed shop that has a TIG&MIG they said I could use or pay them to do. Probably will do the latter.

If I'm hearing you wrong my appologies but what if I juat replaced the whole set for something like this except the Wilwood brake set up that I already have in place?

Plus does it look like coil over QA1 will simply bolt on at the back of 8.8 rear or do you think there will be clearance issues?

Thanks!

Redhawk,

Yes, the Heidt's stuff is great. Keep in mind, you wont be using their crossmember kit as the stock CR has the crossmember already.

Also, Heidt's has various levels of A Arms, disc brake options, etc. I'm going tubular upper and lower with QA1 shocks.

On the back 8.8 I originally installed the 4 link, anti sway bar, AND the horizontal "anti wheel hop" shock absorbers. I'm going to chat with DV and also Heidt's soon and discuss best options for rear upgrades as I also want to convert to Willwood 11" discs in the rear (with E-Brake Option) and 4 Link upgrades to tubular adjustable.

[RedHawk]

Originally Posted by rbgray1

Redhawk,

Yes, the Heidt's stuff is great. Keep in mind, you wont be using their crossmember kit as the stock CR has the crossmember already.

Also, Heidt's has various levels of A Arms, disc brake options, etc. I'm going tubular upper and lower with QA1 shocks.

On the back 8.8 I originally installed the 4 link, anti sway bar, AND the horizontal "anti wheel hop" shock absorbers. I'm going to chat with DV and also Heidt's soon and discuss best options for rear upgrades as I also want to convert to Willwood 11" discs in the rear (with E-Brake Option) and 4 Link upgrades to tubular adjustable.

Please let me know what you find out. Itching to place an order asap. I talked to Heidts today and honeslty a little disapointed with the advise. Although I'm no fnewgi I felt like I was dictating the conversation. Felt they(she) would have know a little more about what I should purchase. I left it with" I'll get back to you." To be fair I did come away with having to check measurements from outside hub to outside hub along with current OEM upper Arm measurement from ball joint to center of where A arm attaxhes to cross member. I figured that OEM specs on that would be standard.

Also I did measure on the back axle for the current shock clearance was 12 7/8 from center of lower bolt attachment to upper bolt attachment. Picture above. The width was about 2 1/2 ". Doubt without a newly welded bracket that any coil over would simply bolt up here.

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by RedHawk

Please let me know what you find out. Itching to place an order asap. I talked to Heidts today and honeslty a little disapointed with the advise. Although I'm no fnewgi I felt like I was dictating the conversation. Felt they(she) would have know a little more about what I should purchase. I left it with" I'll get back to you." To be fair I did come away with having to check measurements from outside hub to outside hub along with current OEM upper Arm measurement from ball joint to center of where A arm attaxhes to cross member. I figured that OEM specs on that would be standard.

Also I did measure on the back axle for the current shock clearance was 12 7/8 from center of lower bolt attachment to upper bolt attachment. Picture above. The width was about 2 1/2 ". Doubt without a newly welded bracket that any coil over would simply bolt up here.

Do you need coilovers in the back? Coilovers are great if you need to adjust ride height or corner-weighting, but if you have them on the front you may be able to use QA1 adjustable shocks in the back along with your existing coil springs.

[rbgray1]

Originally Posted by Wisconsin_Snake

I take it that the front sway bar is the one that came with the kit.. Ditch that as it's made for a Bronco and WAY to hefty for a Cobra... It's 1.25" I think... Handling will improve tremendously. This is per DV...
The CR should have something like a 7/8" bar. If you find one that fits. let me know what it's out of..
It's the lower arms and going to a-arms that's supposed to be the next upgrade, but if you are doing that, the upper A's might as well get updated to.

Wisconsin Snake,

Have you ever found a front bar that worked. I've read DV posts and also agree, this bar is WAY too big for a 2200lb car. I will be talking with the Reps at Heidt's this week to see if they have a smaller bar. Problem is where the stock bar mounts to the frame inside the front chin scoop. I've never liked the look, but don't know if there are any other options.

Let me know if you have any info and if Heidt's has something, I'll respond as well.

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by rbgray1

Wisconsin Snake,

Have you ever found a front bar that worked. I've read DV posts and also agree, this bar is WAY too big for a 2200lb car. I will be talking with the Reps at Heidt's this week to see if they have a smaller bar. Problem is where the stock bar mounts to the frame inside the front chin scoop. I've never liked the look, but don't know if there are any other options.

Let me know if you have any info and if Heidt's has something, I'll respond as well.

Is 2200 pounds typical for a CR II? That seems light to me by about 300-500 pounds. Have you weighed your Classic Roadster

[rbgray1]

Originally Posted by cycleguy55

Is 2200 pounds typical for a CR II? That seems light to me by about 300-500 pounds. Have you weighed your Classic Roadster

Cycle guy,

Yes, 2200 is a little light. Mine is actually just under 2400. I was actually just throwing out a number to state that these cars are very light. Heck, even my C6 Vette is around 3300lbs

[RedHawk]

Originally Posted by Wisconsin_Snake

I take it that the front sway bar is the one that came with the kit.. Ditch that as it's made for a Bronco and WAY to hefty for a Cobra... It's 1.25" I think... Handling will improve tremendously. This is per DV...
The CR should have something like a 7/8" bar. If you find one that fits. let me know what it's out of..
It's the lower arms and going to a-arms that's supposed to be the next upgrade, but if you are doing that, the upper A's might as well get updated to.

Right on! What heck. So given the fact that I dont have a rear sway bar and then remove the front this should improve the ride and handling? Not doubting you or DV just want to be clear.