Anyone put a turbo in their CR? 5k max budget

[RedHawk]

Took your advise and taped the carb hat and ran a hose to the regulator pressure relief valve. also fabed up better intake filter.and routed it away from the headers and valve cover.

I also notice car was running rich so checked all the plugs and confirmed that suspicion. Looked at gap which was .035 and did some research and consulted Torqstorm. They agreed with my finding to closethe gap to the .028-.030 range. Then once cleaned up it mat require a slightly colder plug. Still need to adjust timing too but somewhat tricky. Anyone have experience with remote timing system that doesn't involve adjusting distributor and using timing gun.??
Only because due to tighter space its more challenging to get to damper to hit with timing gun.

Originally Posted by Gaz64

I would think about adding a fuel pressure gauge, just for testing, in the cabin.

The reg could be referenced to the hat, so fuel pressure would be say 6 at idle, to 12 under boost.

Where as to manifold vac, it would be say 3 at idle, 6 at zero vacuum, and then 12 etc.

Depends on your current vacuum at idle, (camshaft), and how much boost you are running.

You could also reference the regulator T'eed with an adjustable bleed to the carb hat, then can you dial up what your fuel pressure curve is separately to boost.

Gary

[Gaz64]

Your ignition is MSD?

You could use one of these:

https://www.msdperformance.com/produ...ols/parts/8762

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by Gaz64

I would think about adding a fuel pressure gauge, just for testing, in the cabin.

The reg could be referenced to the hat, so fuel pressure would be say 6 at idle, to 12 under boost.

Where as to manifold vac, it would be say 3 at idle, 6 at zero vacuum, and then 12 etc.

Depends on your current vacuum at idle, (camshaft), and how much boost you are running.

You could also reference the regulator T'eed with an adjustable bleed to the carb hat, then can you dial up what your fuel pressure curve is separately to boost.

Gary

For safety, any fuel pressure gauge in the cabin can be either electrical or mechanical. If the latter it s/b connected through an isolator so there's no gasoline in the cabin if a line leaks.

Isolators: https://www.summitracing.com/int/sea...sure-isolators

[RedHawk]

Yes that should do it. Thanks!

Originally Posted by Gaz64

Your ignition is MSD?

You could use one of these:

https://www.msdperformance.com/produ...ols/parts/8762

[RedHawk]

Any particular one you recommend?

Originally Posted by cycleguy55

For safety, any fuel pressure gauge in the cabin can be either electrical or mechanical. If the latter it s/b connected through an isolator so there's no gasoline in the cabin if a line leaks.

Isolators: https://www.summitracing.com/int/sea...sure-isolators

[Gaz64]

I like the Autometer electric stepper motor fuel pressure gauges.

https://www.autometer.com/gauges/ult...ofile=products

Not cheap, but you get what you pay for.

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by RedHawk

Any particular one you recommend?

I have an Autometer mechanical with an isolator. It worked fine until I had to disconnect, then re-connect the tube from the gauge to the isolator. Since then the readings have been a bit erratic. It looks like I'm going to have to sort out what I did wrong and re-do the d**m thing.

[tortuga]

Originally Posted by RedHawk

I am coming up on unpacking Big Red for the season and want to add a kick in the pants without putting a new engine in which I have planned for next season a stroked 427 clevor at $13k plus. I am near Denver 5280 elevation

Currently have a 351w with edlebrock heads #6025 170cc 2.02 intake, holley 540 avenger I know I need to change this, performer rpm cam#7182, straight exhaust glass packs.

Dont want nitrous and want to spend as little as possible and put it in over a 4 day weekend. Need to clear hood which has more room than normal since I dropped engine position when putting in new suspension.

Engine has around 450 hp now but want to achieve 550 to 600 plus.

Considered supercharger centrifugal or roots vain.
Figured roots vain because dont have to deal with intercooler and want low end power but not sure which unit will do this on a carborated engine. Weiand, or can a whipple charger work? 3k to 4k on this ?

Which is why I am asking about turbo chargers. Amazon has chicon packages with twin chargers at $1000 that claim 200 hp plus. Ive watched all the videos I could but worry that this wont fit under the hood, modifying headers or its going to create so much heat that car will be in perpetual heat soak.

Has anyone installed this?
Thanks for any input.

A bit of a redirect, but i thought about a cleavor when my last motor ate itself, was scared off by the prospect of having to have custom headers made...Probably not an issue if your exhaust goes out the back...

[RedHawk]

I have never used any of these but there are outfits that send you a jig of some sorts and you contort into the appropriate arrangement, lock it into place then ship back to them for fabrication.

Originally Posted by tortuga

A bit of a redirect, but i thought about a cleavor when my last motor ate itself, was scared off by the prospect of having to have custom headers made...Probably not an issue if your exhaust goes out the back...