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Kirkham Motorsports

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Old 11-24-2011, 07:11 AM
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Cobra Make, Engine: B&B cobra (sold), Hurricane HMS1002 (sold), Kirkham 289 FIA, (sold) RCR GT 40(sold) SPF GT40 2122(sold) Hurricane HMS2002, (sold) RCR SLC (sold) GTR on the way!
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First, congrats on your car!!!

If you have any questions shoot me a pm and I will give you a hand if I can. I have tons of pictures. I was going to send them direct to you but I had some technical difficulties so Steve has the them know for any of you that might need them.

As for the new tank, I installed mine after the trunk tub was installed. You can get a wrench in there to hold the nut. I did it. I also used the straps just as a back up.
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Old 11-27-2011, 06:39 PM
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Cobra Make, Engine: HM-2005, Keith Craft 408W TKO 600 IRS
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Originally Posted by dlampe View Post
First, congrats on your car!!!

If you have any questions shoot me a pm and I will give you a hand if I can. I have tons of pictures. I was going to send them direct to you but I had some technical difficulties so Steve has the them know for any of you that might need them.

As for the new tank, I installed mine after the trunk tub was installed. You can get a wrench in there to hold the nut. I did it. I also used the straps just as a back up.
Thanks to everyone that have provided comments. The comments and suggestions are all appreciated.

All the pictures you posted on your HM-2002 build have been very useful and appreciated as well.

Did you hard mount the tank to the angle iron brackets that are welded to the frame? I think the concern with hard mounting the tank is there is no give if the frame flexes any. Stresses on the tank and/or welds might cause a failure at some point. My thoughts are to use rubber between the tank and the angle iron brackets. Either 1/8" strip or 1/4" (2 layers). Right now I have 5 bolts on each side. Not sure could get to the bolt heads with the trunk tub installed so will weld the heads. Tank fits up from the bottom and can get to the nuts. Still undecided on the straps whether they are needed even as a backup with 10 bolts holding the tank in. The welded bolts will also help with grounding using some external tooth lock washers between the nuts and tank.
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Old 12-06-2011, 04:32 PM
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Default Slave Cylinder

I know there has been alot of discussion on slave cylinders on this forum and a number of different installations both good and bad. I bought a bracket from Mike Forte that is designed specifically for the TKO transmissions. It was fab'd from stainless steel and bolts to the side of the trans. I powder coated it before installation. Other than that, no mods were made. It came from Forte with the CNC slave cylinder, rod, mount for fork and bolts.

I used a generic fox body fork with the pivot on the passenger side. The mount for the heim joint was supposed to bolt to an existing hole in the cluth fork. I drilled a second hole just to make sure it was secure. BTW, the fork is extremely hard and takes some time to drill the hole without tearing up drill bits. Mounted it with some 5/16" flat head bolts. Here's another look.

I welded a bracket normally used for brake lines to the frame to attach the hard line and the flex line. The adapter is a 3/16" inverted flare to -3 AN. Put a 90 deg 1/8"NPT to -3 AN adapter on the CNC slave cylinder. Put a piece of stainless steel flex tubing to connect everything. Seems like a very neat installation. Had to adjust the fork pivot to leave a small adjustment for the slave rod before putting the bell housing on. Otherwise, the slave rod stuck out farther than I wanted.

BTW, the clutch master cylinder is a 7/8" Wilwood and the CNC slave is 7/8". Seems to work fine although the car isn't on the road yet.
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Old 01-03-2012, 04:25 PM
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Default Fuel Tank Rework

After all the comments on the mounting of the fuel tank, I made the following mods: 1) welded nuts to the frame to allow the bolts to be removed from the bottom 2) installed 1/4" rubber strips between frame and fuel tank to allow some movement during any frame flex 3) drilled larger thru holes on tank to allow movement and 4) installed bolts with safety wiring. I haven't decided if the straps are necessary or not.

Here is a pix of the frame with the bolts welded. The frame has 1" angle iron for the mount for the tank.


A pix of the 1" wide x 1/4" thick rubber strip. Obtained from McMaster Carr. Holes are punched. This is a medium hard rubber.


And a pix of the installed tank showing the rubber strip. The bolts are the original ones for now and will be swapped out when the safety wire bolts arrive (and of course add the safety wire). Will torque the bolts so they snug up but not overly tight so will allow some movement if necessary.


Thanks for everyone's comments. Keep them coming.

Russ
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