Cobra Completion Fundraiser for 767Jockey

[767Jockey]

I'm here !!!!!

It's been a ridiculously crazy 6 months or so since I last updated, and I have certainly been neglectful in not doing so. My apologies to all for not being better at that. So much to talk about, not sure where to start, I guess health would be the easiest. So far, my health is holding, so I am very thankful for that. The docs tell me that at some point it will for certain rear its ugly head again, but I have been good so far, yesterday was good, today was good, so I am not expecting issues tomorrow.......I'll take it! I don't allow myself to look any further forward than today and tomorrow. I'll deal with what's coming when it comes, as I am told it most certainly will; for now I am enjoying the respite. When it does show up again, I'll fight like hell as I did once already, and do whatever I can to once again beat it back. It's been a number of months since I have had any issues, so it's been a good time health wise.

As for the car, the news isn't necessarily bad, just not much to talk about. My garage at home is small and cramped, and there really isn't much room right now for the car. Jim (ElMariachi) had it at his house for quite a while, and we got a little electrical work done while it was there. Jim started a Trans Am type Mustang project and needed the room, and Bill (MTPockets) was great about taking the car into his huge shop, where it sits now. The problem is getting over there to work on it. I wonder myself why its so hard to get over to the car, and as I look back I realize that back when the car was at my place up North, I would do most of the work between 8PM and 2AM. That's just the way things worked out, the kids were done for the day, all distractions were over, etc, and I would go out in the garage alone and "tinker" on the car. In hindsight, they were great times, and I so miss being able to do that.

However, I now live in Texas, I have no basement anymore for storage, and where I live does not allow garden sheds, so the garage is full of stuff that would normally be in one of those two places; bikes, lawnmowers, etc. Jim and Bill have been beyond awesome, to the point that Bill even gave me a key to his shop. Work has been insanely crazy since October, and I just need to do much, much better at making time to get things done.

The good news is that I was able to get to the TCC meet in San Marcos, and my wife and I had a tremendous time. Of course I had no Cobra to drive, but I ran around with my daily driver, and we had a blast. I even got to catch up with Jay Nordstrom there, it was great to see him! Gary, I'm sorry I missed you. I would have loved to see your car. One great thing about the TCC meet was that it re-focused me on getting the car done. My wife had been somewhat disengaged from the car; she knew it was something that I badly wanted to complete before I couldn't anymore, and on that basis she was eager to see me get it done. That's changed a bit now; she had such a great time at San Marcos and met so many people that she likes that now she's actually pushing me to get it done. I have to make the time, and I WILL make the time.

I look at what needs to be done on the car, and in total it's still somewhat overwhelming. However, I have decided to concentrate on one area at a time, and just complete one project on the car before I proceed to another. So, with that in mind, I have a few major areas that I need to finish on the car. The first is the electrical system. As I have said before, I am a zero with electrical. To me it always has been, and remains, a Voodoo science. One of the local guys down here is a genius at it, and he came over Jim's house one day with a couple of other guys, and got through some of it. They sorted out more in about 4 hours than I was able to do in a month before. The problem is he's super busy, I have been super busy, everyone is, as is always the case. It has been very difficult to get him back, which I totally, completely understand. I've been so busy that I think I was placating myself in thinking, "Well, I can't work on the electrical, so I will wait until that's done before moving forward". The bottom line is, I need to purposefully make time and move forward in other areas, and I will do that. My wife is leaning on me pretty hard now! You guys know what that's like, I'm sure....

So, the plan for me now is to sort out the MAJOR projects remaining, and tackle them one at a time. I've decided to just move past the electrical and start at the front of the car and work toward thew back, one project at a time, until the entire roller is done, then do the powertrain and drop it in.

The first project at the front is the whole radiator / oil cooler area, and the associated tin baffling, etc. Now, the Contemporary is an awesome car, but in retrospect, it's probably the completely wrong car for me in that everything for it needs to be custom fabricated, due to them being out of business for quite a few years. This would all be easier if I could just pick up the phone, make a call to the manufacturer, and tell them to send me the parts I need. Unfortunately, I can't do that, and while I am terrible at electrical, my custom fabrication skills are just about as bad. Luckily, Nick Acton has lots of custom made parts available for the Contemporary, and I am in the next few days going to order a neat radiator bracket and top aluminum shroud to get the radiator set in at the proper laid back angle. From that point, I will test my lousy skills at trying to make up all the aluminum that surrounds the radiator and oil cooler. Hopefully I don't botch it up and it'll be up to the standards of the rest of the car. When I got it down here to Houston, I hadn't seen it in a very long time, and when I finally saw it again I realized once again what a really nice car it is.

From there, the interior needs to be done. I had the seats recovered back in NY, and the guy who did them did a horrible job. I'll try to find a somewhat reasonably priced guy around here in the Houston area to tackle them again. I'll get a carpet and door panels done, and I'll put vinyl on the rear bulkhead, and that should do it for the interior until I get the dash back in after the electric is done.

Next, I have to put in the emergency brake system. Believe it or not, this is a part that I am really apprehensive about, because I can't for the life of me figure out my way past a problem I have (there's those darned fabrication skill problems again!) The Jag rear calipers have the emergency brake application levers at the top of the caliper. The brake lines also come out the top of the calipers. When I bent the brake lines, I couldn't get the 90 degree bend that transitions the line from coming straight up out of the caliper to parallel to the ground close enough to the caliper itself, so now the brake lines interfere in the path the cable needs to take to span the space between the two levers. Somehow I have to keep the brake lines lower to the ground as they come out of the calipers, and I don't know how I am going to do that. Anyway, that's the next project.

After that, I have a really neat floor mounted pedal box that I bought once again from Nick Acton way back. Somehow along the way lots of parts from the inside have been misplaced, so I think I need to send it back to him to get it basically reassembled. That shouldn't be too difficult to get in once I get it back.

Moving to the rear of the car, I will soon be picking up a Watts link setup from Nick Acton. For those of you who have seen the Jag rear setup in the Contemporary, there in no fore and aft locating setup at all on the early cars, the lower control arm is just sort of hanging in the breeze. There is no locating arm or conventional trailing arm at all on it. I'd feel a lot more secure with the Watts link setup on the car. I'll buy that when I can and have it welded in.

The last of the bigger projects is to drop the fuel tank back down, try to install a sending unit in it that'll at least give me a rough idea of how much fuel is in the car, and run a fuel line to the front with electric fuel pump somewhere in the back of the car.

And then, there's the electrical system.....

Obviously, in addition to all these somewhat major projects is a load of minor ones, but this will certainly come close to getting the car to a roller stage. At that point, it's drive line time.

That's about it for now. Again, I am really sorry for neglecting to keep everyone updated. That's entirely on me, I allowed life to get in the way, and of all the people, I should not allow that to happen with all you guys. You all deserve better, and I will try very hard not to let it go this long again.

When I come on Club Cobra I click on "new posts", and for some reason I did not see that guys were posting on this thread. It became dormant for so long that I had stopped directly checking on it, looking only at the list of threads that had been posted on since my last visit. I will make it a point to come on and look directly at this one first.

Again, as always, a million thanks to all you guys, even with the long delay in getting the car done, it looks like I may very well get to drive it one day. That will be a VERY cool day!

Boy, that was a LOT of typing, my fingers hurt!

[tcrist]

Doug,

Can you set up the brake calipers with banjo fittings? That would leave you with more room than trying to bend those crappy metal brake lines at a real short 90°.

Just a thought.

[767Jockey]

Originally Posted by tcrist

Doug,

Can you set up the brake calipers with banjo fittings? That would leave you with more room than trying to bend those crappy metal brake lines at a real short 90°.

Just a thought.

I was actually thinking about that, Terry. I really wanted to keep hard lines on the rear calipers, and I don't know they make banjo fittings for hard lines. If not I may have to switch over to braided lines for the rear calipers and put banjo's on them. I wonder of they make banjo fittings for the strange "bubble" type brake lines used on the Jag calipers? Does anyone know the best way to handle this?

[henrik]

Hi Doug

Congrats on your new wife... nice to hear you have Success on that part

How are your kids handling your move to Texas or are they back with you ex?

- pls. let us see some pictures of you project.

[767Jockey]

Originally Posted by henrik

Hi Doug

Congrats on your new wife... nice to hear you have Success on that part

How are your kids handling your move to Texas or are they back with you ex?

- pls. let us see some pictures of you project.

Hi, Henrik! Great to hear from you. My wife is great, without her, I don't know what I would have done. My kids are in NY with their Mom. They're doing ok, I see them as often as humanly possible. Working for the airlines, I get to go up whenever time is available. That is another issue in working on the car, of course. When I have free time, I spend a lot of it going to see the kids. They come first. It's tough having them in NY. They're great, I'm very proud of both of them. Thanks for asking!

[cobred]

Could you use the stock jag rear lines and maybe modify the part you dont need. If so you can probably order them from a jag specialty store. I think Welsh is one.

[767Jockey]

Originally Posted by cobred

Could you use the stock jag rear lines and maybe modify the part you dont need. If so you can probably order them from a jag specialty store. I think Welsh is one.

I was thinking of this too, Ed. I have to see what the stock lines look like and how Jag handled it. Thanks!

[tcrist]

Doug,

Looks like you should be able to use something like this JEGS Performance Products 100730 JEGS Brake Line Fitting Adapters or these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hdt-lk-009/overview/ and run straight hard lines to it.

[767Jockey]

Originally Posted by tcrist

Doug,

Looks like you should be able to use something like this JEGS Performance Products 100730 JEGS Brake Line Fitting Adapters or these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hdt-lk-009/overview/ and run straight hard lines to it.

I see how the line would seal to the fitting, but how does the fitting seal to the caliper?

[tcrist]

Originally Posted by 767Jockey

I see how the line would seal to the fitting, but how does the fitting seal to the caliper?

Use this JEGS Performance Products 100732 JEGS Brake Line Fitting Adapters with copper washersabove and below the banjo fitting. See this picture and the caption below it. Front And Rear Disc Brakes Banjo Bolts Photo 18

Now I dont know anything about a jag rearend brake setup. Just thinking outloud.

[FatBoy]

Hi Doug,

It's good to hear that you're okay.

The rams have been doing what rams do again and we once again have plenty of bouncy young lambs.

Don't forget you're both very welcome to come and stay if you ever want to take a break over here.

On the brake line front, does this picture help? It is of my Contemporary when I was building and clearly shows the routing of the rear brake lines.



Paul

[767Jockey]

Originally Posted by FatBoy

Hi Doug,

It's good to hear that you're okay.

The rams have been doing what rams do again and we once again have plenty of bouncy young lambs.

Don't forget you're both very welcome to come and stay if you ever want to take a break over here.

On the brake line front, does this picture help? It is of my Contemporary when I was building and clearly shows the routing of the rear brake lines.



Paul

Hi, Paul -

First and foremost, I'm am so pleased to hear that the perverted rams and sheep are at it again. Lots of red ears running around, no doubt!

It's great to hear from you, and I can't tell you how many times I have pored over the picture that you just posted. 99% of the picture is perfect in showing how the brake lines are run, and in fact I used that very picture to determine how to run my lines in a very similar fashion. However, as luck would have it, the sway bar blocks out the very tiny portion of the picture that I really need to see in order to figure out how Jag or Contemporary did it. The area where the brake lines come out of the caliper vertically, bend immediately to horizontal, then bend again to descend vertically is exactly what I'd love to see. my problem is that my lack of brake line bending skill, coupled with a bender that may have some limitations equal to those of the user, makes it impossible for me to make the first bend close enough to the entry point to the caliper, meaning that the lines are too high coming out of the caliper vertically before they make the bend to horizontal.

Thanks for the pic and the invitation as well. I wish I could get over there, or you here. I'd love for our families to get together, we'd have a great time I'm sure.

Hope all is well,
Doug

[767Jockey]

Originally Posted by tcrist

Use this JEGS Performance Products 100732 JEGS Brake Line Fitting Adapters with copper washersabove and below the banjo fitting. See this picture and the caption below it. Front And Rear Disc Brakes Banjo Bolts Photo 18

Now I dont know anything about a jag rearend brake setup. Just thinking outloud.

Thanks, Terry. I guess it'll work just fine assuming the brake lines are drilled and tapped into a machined area on the caliper. I have to take a look. I'm thinking that the area on the caliper where the brake line enters the caliper was not machined flat on a large enough area for the copper banjo fitting to have a face to seal to, but that's going by long ago memory. I have to get over there to take a look. Thanks again,, your idea is certainly appreciated!

[dcdoug]

Thanks for the update, keep 'em coming!

[767Jockey]

Well, not much of an update, but here's where I'm at now. I received the radiator mounting frame from Nick Acton and did a trial fit on it. All looks good, as I speak the radiator is temporarily in the car and everything seems to fit well. I'm going to run back to Bill's as soon as I can and measure the opening between the top of the radiator frame and the front edge of the hood opening, and order the aluminum panel to fill the space from Nick. I just today ordered a Ford Taurus fan and shroud at Jim's suggestion to try to keep the engine cool down here in the Houston heat. Hopefully with some time and attention I can do a decent job on the install and have it not look too noticeable. I have a brand new Spal fan in the box that I bought long ago that I can use if this Taurus fan doesn't work out for whatever reason.

The body is just laying on the car, held on temporarily with two loose bolts. It'll come off in about ten minutes with four guys lifting from each corner. Before I do the final radiator install I'll probably pull the body off and take care of the rear brake lines and emergency brake issue. It'll be 100 times easier to take care of with the body out of the way. I'll take that opportunity to run the fuel line and pump as well, as that will be easier with the body off too.

The rear sway bar mounts are bolted into holes drilled and tapped into the frame. While the body is off, I want to try to strengthen the mounting points. I'm hoping one of you guys have some idea what type of threaded insert I can get in there.

That's about it for now, more as it comes.

Doug

[Jerry Clayton]

Doug--a piece of info just to be shared between the secret 767 folks-----you can probably reverse sides with your calipers and the lines will point down-----by splitting the calipers you can leave the outer halfs on the sides they are on so the bleeders go up------------

[FatBoy]

Originally Posted by Jerry Clayton

Doug--a piece of info just to be shared between the secret 767 folks-----you can probably reverse sides with your calipers and the lines will point down-----by splitting the calipers you can leave the outer halfs on the sides they are on so the bleeders go up------------

Oooh...cunning.

[767Jockey]

Originally Posted by FatBoy

Oooh...cunning.

You think THAT'S cunning? Hah, you haven't seen anything. You should see the secret 767 initiation and handshake........it's amazing!

[FatBoy]

Originally Posted by 767Jockey

You think THAT'S cunning? Hah, you haven't seen anything. You should see the secret 767 initiation and handshake........it's amazing!

I'm obviously not inside the circle.

[767Jockey]

Not really an update of what's been done, but rather a request for info and an update of sorts on what's coming up. I have all the parts I need now to install the Fluidyne radiator in a proper laid back position in the car. However, installing this will cause attachment of the body to the frame. I've decided that the body needs to come off one more time to more easily accomplish some of what needs to be done.

Right now, the body is only held onto the chassis with four finger tight bolts. For those of you who are not familiar with the Contemporary, it's a one piece molded body and tub. When I remove those four bolts, with one guy at each wheel well the body and interior lifts of in one piece and onto the floor next to the chassis in about one minute. The only issue is having enough guys on hand to lift it.

Once I have the body off, I need to get the work done quickly and get the body back on, as the car is in Bill's shop/garage. Taking up one space is greatly appreciated, taking up two (chassis in one space, body next to it in another) is really pushing the limits of good behavior. What I would like to do with the body off is:

Resolve the E-Brake situation once and for all
Re-do the rear brake caliper lines, if necessary
Run the hard fuel line
Remount (properly) the sway bar mounts
Run the main battery cables

Most of this work is self explanatory, however I have a few questions for you guys with regard to the sway bar mounts. Right now, the mounts are screwed into the round tube frame. I drilled and tapped the holes, and bolted it on. As I sat and gave this thought countless times over the past years, I believe that given the relatively thin wall nature of the frame tubing, this isn't enough meat for the bolt to hold on to. They tightened up fine and all, but I'm worried about them holding up under the stress of use. The way the body fits, I will not be able to remove these bolts with the body on, so I want to get this right.

I'm wanting to put some sort of threaded insert into the frame. I have seen kits that look like big pop rivets with threads on the inside, you drill an oversized hole, the insert is collared at the top to keep it on top of the material, and the end that you insert into the hole gets expanded with the dedicated insert tool, locking the insert into the hole. My question is, what is this type of insert called? If there is more than one, which is best for this application, and where do I get them? Do I rent the install tool or buy it? Any info on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Doug