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26Likes

11-24-2013, 09:56 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: West Chester,
PA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #795 427 S/C completed Jan. '14 - '68 FE 427 side oiler
Posts: 1,060
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Not Ranked
Hi Dan,
Thanks, yeah this was starting to seem too easy. And, yes, I have a heater.
And, Patrick, thanks - I'll try that. Will have to scrape or cut the right stuff out of the way first. It is more than just a small leak, it is enough to run down the front of the bell housing plate and look like a rear main seal leak.
Kevin
__________________
"Anyone who drives faster than you is a maniac and anyone who drives slower than you is an idiot" - George Carlin
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11-25-2013, 06:55 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,533
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Not Ranked
If Keith Craft's shop is any indicator, there seems to be some argument in favor of being able to prevent some oil leaks by sealing the exterior of the gasket after assembly. On my motor they went completely around the oil pan (maybe other locations too - didn't notice) and applied a small ribbon of black RTV over the edge of the gasket. I would guess they had more in mind than just cosmetics. I would not have figured trying to stop a leak from the exterior would be successful but maybe so. 
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11-25-2013, 08:37 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,078
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
If Keith Craft's shop is any indicator, there seems to be some argument in favor of being able to prevent some oil leaks by sealing the exterior of the gasket after assembly. On my motor they went completely around the oil pan (maybe other locations too - didn't notice) and applied a small ribbon of black RTV over the edge of the gasket.
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You will regret that if / when you have to do lower maintenance or repair and remove the pan. It's a B!tch to cut through the outer RTV AND the RTV on the gasket surfaces. Keith probably does not want an engine to come back as a leaker and because they don't have to do pan removal like an owner might.
I've had my pan down 4 times over the years and have nearly perfected the art... 
__________________
Chas.
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11-25-2013, 05:05 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,533
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA Chas
You will regret that if / when you have to do lower maintenance or repair and remove the pan. It's a B!tch to cut through the outer RTV AND the RTV on the gasket surfaces. Keith probably does not want an engine to come back as a leaker and because they don't have to do pan removal like an owner might. I've had my pan down 4 times over the years and have nearly perfected the art... 
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Yeah, I guess it would add a lot of effort to separate them. That small, neat, untooled bead sure looks purty for now though. And so far no identifiable leaks although idling in the driveway is not much of a test. 
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11-25-2013, 05:25 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,078
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
Yeah, I guess it would add a lot of effort to separate them. That small, neat, untooled bead sure looks purty for now though. And so far no identifiable leaks although idling in the driveway is not much of a test. 
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A cool down after a 5500 RPM run will tell you if it's gonna stay dry. Most likely it will not leak, which is why Keith does that without a lot of other tedious work to ensure a tight seal with these types of pan rails.
You should re-snug the pan bolts after 100 miles or so; they will have backed-off a bit. Just don't crank on them.
__________________
Chas.
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11-25-2013, 09:03 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,533
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA Chas
A cool down after a 5500 RPM run will tell you if it's gonna stay dry. Most likely it will not leak, which is why Keith does that without a lot of other tedious work to ensure a tight seal with these types of pan rails.
You should re-snug the pan bolts after 100 miles or so; they will have backed-off a bit. Just don't crank on them.
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I'm expecting to see a drip from the rear main at some point. Keith said he tries his best and pays extra attention to the rear seal but some of them still want to drip a little.
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11-27-2013, 10:21 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,533
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Not Ranked
Too cold to do much but I checked the fit of the side curtains and put some weatherstripping on the bottom. I test fit them and adjusted the ferrules during the body work so they slid into position fine.
Trying to seal these to the top of the doors is kind of convoluted. I don't think it matters much.
ERA provided a nifty bag to store them in (for a little extra $)
Fits in the trunk (barely).
They originally went behind the seats but that must have been just the side curtains themselves and no bag or anything.
I guess the next item is the windshield - I need to see if the cowl needs a final pass with the buffer first.
Last edited by DanEC; 11-27-2013 at 12:54 PM..
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12-01-2013, 04:15 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,533
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Not Ranked
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12-01-2013, 04:42 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
That looks great. Did you notice how the front driver's side turn signal is not plumb straight? Peter insists on keeping it that way. 
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12-01-2013, 04:57 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,533
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt
That looks great. Did you notice how the front driver's side turn signal is not plumb straight? Peter insists on keeping it that way. 
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Thanks Patrick. You know - I remember reading about that years ago in an old thread. Something about Peter's original car had had some minor nose damage at one time and when molds were pulled from it the misalignment was not corrected. It must be pretty subtle as I have not really noticed it.
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12-03-2013, 02:47 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Syracuse,
NY
Cobra Make, Engine: Contemporary classics 3041,sbc 350(have no fear ford guys for there is a FE 428 in the garage waiting to be rebuilt & installed) but for now she is a driver while other projects take precidence.
Posts: 405
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
Also installed the griller splitter today.

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Looks great Dan! I wonder if you could tell me what the width of the ERA mouth is. I was wondering how close it is to my Contemporary and if the ERA splitter would work on my car. Mine is pretty much at the same stage as yours right now.
Thanks,
Dan
__________________
THOUGHT FOR THE DAY: There is more money being spent on breast implants and Viagra than on Alzheimer's research. This means that by 2030, there should be a large elderly population with perky boobs and huge erections and absolutely no recollection of what to do with them.
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12-03-2013, 05:46 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,533
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Not Ranked
Dan - as best I can measure on the car, the grill opening is around 26-1/2 inches wide at the splitter. The actual sheet metal splitter is 26-1/4 give or take a sixteenth. There is a metal tab bent over on the sides that secures underneath with a screw into the side of the girll opening. There are a couple aluminum brackets at the rear that secure it to the radiator supports.
Hope this helps.
Thanks
Dan
Quote:
Originally Posted by avanti-176
Looks great Dan! I wonder if you could tell me what the width of the ERA mouth is. I was wondering how close it is to my Contemporary and if the ERA splitter would work on my car. Mine is pretty much at the same stage as yours right now.
Thanks,
Dan
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