Club Cobra GasN Exhaust  

Go Back   Club Cobra > Manufacturers, Engine Builders, tools, and parts. > ERA---Speak with Bob Putnam

MMG Superformance
Nevada Classics
Main Menu
Module Jump:
Nevada Classics
Nevada Classics
Keith Craft Racing
Keith Craft Racing
Advertise at CC
Banner Ad Rates
MMG Superformance
MMG Superformance
MMG Superformance
Keith Craft Racing
March 2024
S M T W T F S
          1 2
3 4 5 6 7 8 9
10 11 12 13 14 15 16
17 18 19 20 21 22 23
24 25 26 27 28 29 30
31            

Kirkham Motorsports

Like Tree8Likes

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #61 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2018, 04:30 AM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: New Britain, CT
Cobra Make, Engine: Size 10 Feet
Posts: 2,993
Not Ranked     
Default

Someone has screwed with the original connectors. The white and brown 10g wires never passed through the 12-gang block. They were in a separate high-amp connector. I'll send him the correct connectors.
rads42 likes this.
Reply With Quote
  #62 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2018, 05:56 AM
patrickt's Avatar
Half-Ass Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 21,889
Not Ranked     
Default

Moriarty -- if you're wondering how you can avoid nuisance electrical gremlins like this, it's pretty easy to do on an ERA (even one that apparently had a missing hi-amp connector). The wiring configuration of the fuse blocks makes running a voltage drop test really easy on most of the intermediate connections. Just turn your headlights on, put one lead of your VOM on the left screw of Fuse #1 and the other lead on Fuse #7 (High Beams) or Fuse #8 (Low Beams) and measure the voltage drop. Parking Lights are on Fuse #6 and Brake Lights are on Fuse #5. Before that brown wire finally gave up, Fuses 6, 7, and 8 would all have likely shown a hefty voltage drop of probably a volt or two. Gaz will tell you that a half volt or less is probably acceptable, I'd give it a little more. Just remember, you always perform a voltage drop test with the circuit loaded. The reason we didn't run a voltage drop test on your problem is that the circuit died when you hit the light switch. If turning the light switch on had just created "dim lights," then we would have performed the voltage drop test along the circuit to find the weak connection and it would have pointed right to that faulty connector.
Gaz64 likes this.
Reply With Quote
  #63 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2018, 03:09 PM
patrickt's Avatar
Half-Ass Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 21,889
Not Ranked     
Default

This thread motivated me to upgrade my own wiring. That thread is here:
Headlight Wiring Upgrade
You might consider doing the same, it's about as easy as it gets.
Reply With Quote
  #64 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2018, 09:23 AM
EM-0785's Avatar
Senior CC Premier Member
Visit my Photo Gallery
Lifetime Contributor
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Bellevue, WA
Cobra Make, Engine: Everett-Morrison 514, Toploader 4 sp, Jag IRS
Posts: 278
Not Ranked     
Default Guy In Peanut Gallery Benefits From This Advice Too!

Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
With the key off, check for voltage on all 16 screws on each side of the eight fuses that are on your firewall. Write down which screws have 12v and which don't. For example 1-Left and 1 Right might have voltage and 6-Left and 6-Right might not. If one side of the fuse has it and the other doesn't then the fuse is blown. This is the configuration of your fuses:

1L----1R 5L----5R
2L----2R 6L----6R
3L----3R 7L----7R
4L----4R 8L----8R

Post those results.

Then, turn the key on and repeat the process. Post those results. With that info we can tell you where to look.

I wanted to support the results of the recommended 16 screw voltage testing in this thread. I too tested voltage across all fuses with key off then on. Found some deficiencies. My fuse blocks had a lot of corrosion so I decided to restore their condition first and see if that made a difference.

A few nights of steel wool, metal polish and contact cleaner. Took the opportunity to replace the rusted mounting hardware with new stainless. The good news is it looks a little better.

The better news is it restored the lost function of both my horn and wipers! This highlights the importance of starting with baseline diagnostics. I suppose I’ll put my wiper motor research on hold now!

Thanks ‘again’ for your advice Patrick!

See project photos below. Brent


Before photos – corroded:







After photos – restored voltage flow:









Pete Munroe, Alfa02 and 66AC like this.
Reply With Quote
  #65 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2018, 12:03 PM
patrickt's Avatar
Half-Ass Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 21,889
Not Ranked     
Default

Wow, that's pretty dramatic. Two other really easy to touch-up spots, and that could make a real difference, are the two ground points on the frame where the lights and fans take their grounds. That's up on the cross-member right in front of the engine, and back in the trunk over towards the driver's side. Just unscrew it all, clean it up, and screw it back together.
EM-0785 likes this.
Reply With Quote
  #66 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2018, 01:44 PM
patrickt's Avatar
Half-Ass Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 21,889
Not Ranked     
Default Another Really Easy Upgrade

Now, that front cross-member ground is a pretty important ground point. And, for whatever reason, if it is not "up to snuff," then your lights and fans will not operate at their peak capacity. Fortunately, this is another spot that is really, really easy to upgrade. Just unscrew it all, clean it up good, buy a longer bolt and incorporate an aluminum "saddle washer" at the cross-member, along with a nice fat 2 gauge ground strap and run it to the driver side cylinder head. Saddle washers are available from aviation web sites. Here's a pic of mine:



Last edited by patrickt; 12-23-2018 at 01:51 PM.. Reason: driver side head
Reply With Quote
  #67 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2018, 03:47 PM
DanEC's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area, AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,480
Not Ranked     
Default

That is an amazing transformation. Congrats on a job well done. I've become a big fan of No Ox in the last year or two - an electrical conductive grease. I have a Wi-Fi security camera system with 12V power to the cameras and some of them I couldn't keep on line for more than a few hours at a time after awhile. Unplugging and plugging the 12V power back to them would restore their service but they would shut down after a few hours. I applied No Ox to all the antenna connections and the 12 V power plugs and even the 115V transformer plug ins in the attic and suddenly almost no problems any longer. Now I lose a camera every 3 or 4 weeks if that. I've been applying it to all my auto electrical connections.

https://www.amazon.com/NO-OX-ID-Spec...85242409&psc=1
EM-0785 likes this.
__________________
ERA 782 Running
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cfge...b1-77fqwFRu7c]
Reply With Quote
  #68 (permalink)  
Old 12-24-2018, 07:28 AM
cycleguy55's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: White City, SK
Cobra Make, Engine: West Coast, 460 CID
Posts: 2,844
Not Ranked     
Default

You have executed a magic transformation on those fuse blocks - great work.


Merry Christmas!
__________________
Brian
Reply With Quote
  #69 (permalink)  
Old 12-24-2018, 09:12 AM
EM-0785's Avatar
Senior CC Premier Member
Visit my Photo Gallery
Lifetime Contributor
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Bellevue, WA
Cobra Make, Engine: Everett-Morrison 514, Toploader 4 sp, Jag IRS
Posts: 278
Not Ranked     
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cycleguy55 View Post
You have executed a magic transformation on those fuse blocks - great work.


Merry Christmas!
Well Brian you’ve got that right, ‘Blue Magic’ metal polish as a matter of fact! I set out to buy new fuse blocks, had some in my Summit cart, give or take $10 each. Yet, while they looked the same, they said ‘20 amp’ fuse blocks, and the metal tabs between screws on the power side block didn’t have a break like mine (whether that matters or not).

Mine had no markings on them. Yet had one 30 amp fuse installed, as I’d also seen spec’d in that same position for example on the ERA 427 manual (don't know their block spec).

I assume most are the 20 amp style blocks, even though a 30 amp can be used just fine on one. Yet wasn’t sure and wasn’t evident via quick research.

To be safe, just restored mine, also wanted to get moving on it, to test my electrical. Bought my car intent to have some updating and projects to keep me physically and mentally active. This little project really delivered. My arms and hands got quite the workout!

Thanks and Merry Christmas!

(Note: Our own Alfa02 (Tom) recommended Blue Magic metal polish. I’d used it in the past, and forgotten all about it. Wonderful stuff!)
Alfa02 likes this.

Last edited by EM-0785; 12-24-2018 at 09:13 AM.. Reason: Spelling
Reply With Quote
  #70 (permalink)  
Old 12-24-2018, 10:48 AM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: New Britain, CT
Cobra Make, Engine: Size 10 Feet
Posts: 2,993
Not Ranked     
Default

Interesting... I don't think those are original fuse blocks. The early ones didn't have one piece fuse clamp mounts. Around 10 years ago I changed to something similar, but I've never seen such overall corrosion on them. The way they're attached to the firewall is odd too. That's what sometimes happens after 20 years.
Reply With Quote
  #71 (permalink)  
Old 12-24-2018, 10:50 AM
patrickt's Avatar
Half-Ass Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 21,889
Not Ranked     
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by strictlypersonl View Post
Interesting... I don't think those are original fuse blocks. The early ones didn't have one piece fuse clamp mounts. Around 10 years ago I changed to something similar, but I've never seen such overall corrosion on them. The way they're attached to the firewall is odd too. That's what sometimes happens after 20 years.
… and the ERA mantra is that any changes you make along the way must improve on Bob's original designs.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:32 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: CC Policy
Links monetized by VigLink