Engine noise - Page 2

Cobradad · #21 (**permalink**) 06-07-2011, 08:48 AM

I used an automotive stethoscope to listen to each cylinder. Definately #'s 5 & 6 are much louder than the rest. I have no idea of the proper settings for the particular cam in the car. I intend to pull the valve covers over the weekend and visually inspect whats going on. Not sure if I will attempt the adjustment myself, its been over 30 years since I did one. To that end, any ERA folks out there have a reccomended shop. I live just outside of Coatesville, PA. I know Bill used a shop in Pottstown. Wouldn't mind something in West Chester. Thanks for every one's help.
Bob W

patrickt · #22 (**permalink**) 06-07-2011, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cobradad

I have no idea of the proper settings for the particular cam in the car. I intend to pull the valve covers over the weekend and visually inspect whats going on. Not sure if I will attempt the adjustment myself, its been over 30 years since I did one.

Bob, you could always just check the other valves with a feeler gauge to see what the lash is on them. But what I would do for a decent starting point on valve lash for that particular engine is if those TP heads are aluminum set the lash for both intake and exhaust COLD at around .018, if they're iron, set them COLD to about .026 -- that's close enough for now. The only trick to adjusting solid valves is to make sure you have the engine rotated so that you're on the heel of the lobe. It's been discussed many times here, I'll see if I can find you the easiest thread. What I do to rotate the valvetrain is just put my half-inch ratchet on the crank bolt and then slip the aluminum handle from my jack over that so that it's effectively a three foot long ratchet wrench. That makes rotating the engine very easy and you don't have to pull the spark plugs either.

patrickt · #23 (**permalink**) 06-07-2011, 09:30 AM

Here's a decent valve lash thread: Valve lash questions

And here's a couple of pics I took a while back regarding turning the engine. I've since replaced the crank bolt with one of ARP's new bolts that takes a half inch ratchet directly (no more socket needed) -- this is really an easy way to turn your engine and safer than bumping it with a remote starter.

pjmoore2003 · #24 (**permalink**) 06-07-2011, 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanEC

Just to make sure you covered all the easy stuff first - could it be an exhaust leak on that bank. Header bolts have a way of backing off and gaskets or sealer get blown out. Itsi bitsi chance it could be something like that.

Worth giving a good check

I dont have an SO engine but I just went through this. Friends thought it was valvetrain, but I found a header bolt rattled out causing gasket to fail. It's funny how bad an engine can sound with a bad gasket.

Cobradad · #25 (**permalink**) 06-08-2011, 01:07 PM

Thanks for all the info. Patrickt, great summary of valve lash adjustment. I figured I would use a socket and pipe to rotate the engine. I never was any good at bumping the engine with the starter. I was going to make sure I used neoprene valve cover gaskets so I can reuse them since the covers may be off once in a while. Bill, do you know if the heads are iron or aluminum? Can't say that I've really checked them out yet. I will check the header bolts just to cover all the bases. This is what makes this forum so great. I have been reading and following things for probably two years before I bought the car. Hopefully I have the time to look things over this weekend and I will let you all know what I find. Thanks again.
Bob W

patrickt · #26 (**permalink**) 06-08-2011, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cobradad

Bill, do you know if the heads are iron or aluminum?

Bob, don't trust Bill.

Get a magnet off the front of your refrigerator (that's probably holding up one of the kids' pictures) and put it on the head. If it sticks, it's iron, it it doesn't, it's aluminum.

mrmustang · #27 (**permalink**) 06-08-2011, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cobradad

Thanks for all the info. Patrickt, great summary of valve lash adjustment. I figured I would use a socket and pipe to rotate the engine. I never was any good at bumping the engine with the starter. I was going to make sure I used neoprene valve cover gaskets so I can reuse them since the covers may be off once in a while. Bill, do you know if the heads are iron or aluminum? Can't say that I've really checked them out yet. I will check the header bolts just to cover all the bases. This is what makes this forum so great. I have been reading and following things for probably two years before I bought the car. Hopefully I have the time to look things over this weekend and I will let you all know what I find. Thanks again.
Bob W

Bob, beware of Patrick bearing gifts from afar

Heads are iron "Tunnel Port" heads.

Bill S.

patrickt · #28 (**permalink**) 06-13-2011, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cobradad

Hopefully I have the time to look things over this weekend and I will let you all know what I find. Thanks again.

Bob, did you get a chance to eyeball your valve train over the weekend? Hi-res pics are always helpful as well you know.

Cobradad · #29 (**permalink**) 06-13-2011, 02:42 PM

Hi Patrick
Did not. Wives have a way of making those lists....
The list of cars I need to look at is growing. Daughter informs me the ac on my truck that she is driving is not working and the Mustang threw a code I now need to check. In my mind the cobra should be first on the list. I think I need to tell them I keep the cobra, everyone else rides a horse. I will let you all now about the cobra when I get a chance. Inquiring minds want to know. Thanks.
Bob

patrickt · #30 (**permalink**) 07-01-2011, 07:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cobradad

The list of cars I need to look at is growing.

Bob, did you ever get a chance to eyeball the problemo on your engine?

Cobradad · #31 (**permalink**) 07-01-2011, 10:46 AM

Patrick, you won't believe it, but I just took the day off to attend to it. Popped the driver side valve cover. As I was pulling it off I heard the same tinny noise when the engine was running. When I removed the cover a piece of sheetmetal had detached under the valve cover. It looks like it is some kind of baffle that was spot welded to the inside of the cover. It was lying right by valves 6 & 7 which is where the niose was. I would think it is supposed to redirect oil spray back onto the rockers. Don't know if I need to replace the cover or if I can get it tacked back on. I'll see if I can figure out how to upload some photos of the valve cover and the metal piece. While I'm in there, I'm still going to check the lash, but this explains why the driver side was noisy and not the other side. Also, valves 5 & 6 were noisier than 1,2,3 & 4, but not as bad as 6 & 7. The metal piece was concentrated over 6 & 7, but still impacted 5 & 8.
Bob

patrickt · #32 (**permalink**) 07-01-2011, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cobradad

Patrick, you won't believe it, but I just took the day off to attend to it. Popped the driver side valve cover. As I was pulling it off I heard the same tinny noise when the engine was running. When I removed the cover a piece of sheetmetal had detached under the valve cover. It looks like it is some kind of baffle that was spot welded to the inside of the cover. It was lying right by valves 6 & 7 which is where the niose was. I would think it is supposed to redirect oil spray back onto the rockers. Don't know if I need to replace the cover or if I can get it tacked back on. I'll see if I can figure out how to upload some photos of the valve cover and the metal piece. While I'm in there, I'm still going to check the lash, but this explains why the driver side was noisy and not the other side. Also, valves 5 & 6 were noisier than 1,2,3 & 4, but not as bad as 6 & 7. The metal piece was concentrated over 6 & 7, but still impacted 5 & 8.
Bob

Man, what a GREAT 4th of July present. That's essentially a "nothing" fix. Hurray.

Cobradad · #33 (**permalink**) 07-01-2011, 11:17 AM

Yea, made my day. Have a great 4th.

patrickt · #34 (**permalink**) 07-01-2011, 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cobradad

Yea, made my day.

... and Bill's too. We were all set to rag on him had it been anything serious.

Jim Holden · #35 (**permalink**) 07-01-2011, 12:16 PM

Depending on the type of aftermarket valve train you may have, clearances with the valve cover can be tight. The internal baffles on original style valve covers often need to be clearanced...

Jim

Cobradad · #36 (**permalink**) 07-05-2011, 12:09 PM

Just to let everyone know the happy ending to the saga. There WAS a baffle riveted to the upper part of the valve cover, cast cover, very tall with deep fins and 427 cobra on top. The rivets had fluted shafts and the rivets fell out. Loctite and machine screws now hold the baffle in place. I pulled two rivets out of pools of oil on the top of the cylinder heads. Either the other two fell out long ago, or they now reside in the oil pan. Time to change the oil again to see what comes out. Cars is running great, valve lash is good. Glad to know Bill is safe from you guys. He was a good guy to deal with when buying his car.