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06-29-2011, 09:35 AM
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Proud Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: North of Baltimore,
MD
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 2121
Posts: 137
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Not Ranked
Wheel opening contours / body prep question
I’m at the stage of the build I dread the most… bodywork. Heck, I can’t even use liquid paper without messing up!
In the spirit of doing as much as I can myself (something about the journey vs the destination), I’ll get it done… with your help of course!
Read the DanEC post regarding the topic ( Fiberglass body wheel lip body prep) but I still have questions:
What does the ideal wheel opening lip look like on a FIA?
What is the best way to sculpt the fender lips? (Tape an outline, scribe into the fiberglass, ??)
What tools do you use to bring it to the right format? (Dremel, drill, cut off tool, reciprocating saw, router, or?)
From looking at completed FIAs, it seems like quite a bit of material is removed OR huge amounts of filler are added.
Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Al
Front
Rear
Lip thickness (3/8 inch)
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06-29-2011, 11:30 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Holderness, NH, US of A,
NH
Cobra Make, Engine: CSX 4772 old iron FE
Posts: 5,499
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Not Ranked
I just made up a fence for a dremel tool with a diamond cutoff wheel to cut the lip to length. I really like the Shelby lip as it's finished like a wired edge. I'm playing with some tool ideas to try and get that radius now. It I could get a radiused router bit that fits my die grinder I think that would do it.
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06-29-2011, 08:03 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Cobra Make, Engine: Unique Motorcars 289 USRRC, 1964 289 stroked to 331, toploader
Posts: 1,027
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by mickmate
I really like the Shelby lip as it's finished like a wired edge. I'm playing with some tool ideas to try and get that radius now. It I could get a radiused router bit that fits my die grinder I think that would do it.
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I've seen reference to the "wired edge" before. Could someone explain what exactly that is. I assume it is part of the aluminum manufacturing process... photos would help.
__________________
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06-29-2011, 08:20 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Holderness, NH, US of A,
NH
Cobra Make, Engine: CSX 4772 old iron FE
Posts: 5,499
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Not Ranked
How bout a vid, YouTube - ‪Fabricating Fenders for a 1934 Lagonda Part II‬‏ note some simple little tools like a fork to put over the edge and form the radius bit by bit. I like those small torches that he uses too.
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06-29-2011, 09:48 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Cobra Make, Engine: Unique Motorcars 289 USRRC, 1964 289 stroked to 331, toploader
Posts: 1,027
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Not Ranked
OK, cool! I enjoyed that. Thanks Nick.
__________________
Paul
Unique Motorcars 289 USRRC
1964 289 5-bolt block
Toploader and 3.31 rear
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06-30-2011, 03:51 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Augusta,
MO
Cobra Make, Engine: Sold ERA FIA 2139, 331 Weber IDF
Posts: 279
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Not Ranked
Something you may want to check, my right rear wheel opening is 1/2" taller than the left, ride height is equal on both sides. Either the body is twisted in the rear or the openings are different. Wish I would have caught it when I was at your stage. Sounds like you may be meticulous, in which this would bother you as it does me.
Last edited by wolf k; 06-30-2011 at 03:53 PM..
Reason: grammer
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06-30-2011, 04:30 PM
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Proud Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: North of Baltimore,
MD
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 2121
Posts: 137
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by mickmate
I just made up a fence for a dremel tool with a diamond cutoff wheel to cut the lip to length. I really like the Shelby lip as it's finished like a wired edge. I'm playing with some tool ideas to try and get that radius now. It I could get a radiused router bit that fits my die grinder I think that would do it.
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mickmate, thanks for the reply. Great idea! What did you use as a fence? How did you guide the dremel?
Not sure my hand is steady enough. Thinking a thin/flexible body side molding (like a door edge molding) could act as a guide. Perhaps a mini router would offer easier maneuverability.
Those rolled edges sure are nice. I’m not that ambitious though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wolf k
Something you may want to check, my right rear wheel opening is 1/2" taller than the left, ride height is equal on both sides. Either the body is twisted in the rear or the openings are different. Wish I would have caught it when I was at your stage. Sounds like you may be meticulous, in which this would bother you as it does me.
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Wolf… absolutely love your build pics. You are definitely the meticulous one… and that’s a great trait!
Thanks for the heads up. I bonded the body myself, so I hope I didn’t mess up. I’ll run a straight edge off the frame and measure the height. All my pre-drilled holes and panels lined up, so fingers are crossed that all is well.
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06-30-2011, 07:12 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Holderness, NH, US of A,
NH
Cobra Make, Engine: CSX 4772 old iron FE
Posts: 5,499
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Not Ranked
I didn't even take a picture of it, I'll get one. I welded some plate to a nut and a small piece off that. The two planes kept the circular cutter off the edge the same distance. Like a mini router as you'd suggested. I'm thinking next of a fence for the die grinder with a carbide burr and just keep it perpendicular to the edge while I run it around at different angles to cut the round profile of the edge. I could probably have done it by hand already instead of dinking around with tools.
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07-01-2011, 07:49 AM
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Proud Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: North of Baltimore,
MD
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 2121
Posts: 137
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by mickmate
... I could probably have done it by hand already instead of dinking around with tools.
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Think you're right mickmate. I'll take your advice!
Looked for a mini router but they all seem too cumbersome for the task. I’ll put down a ¼ inch tape guide, switch to decaf and use the dremel or die grinder to bring it down to size.
Thanks
Al
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