ERA IRS Rear Axle Nut Torque

[Bobcat]

Guys .... can`t find my notes when I assembled my IRS rear . Does anyone know what the torque on the rear axle nut is ?? My tired brain thinks it is either 140 ft-lbs or 225 ft-lbs .

Thanks

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by Bobcat

Guys .... can`t find my notes when I assembled my IRS rear . Does anyone know what the torque on the rear axle nut is ?? My tired brain thinks it is either 140 ft-lbs or 225 ft-lbs .

Thanks

ERA's manual says install the axle shaft and tighten the nut to 140 ft-lbs. Check the end float with a dial indicatior and then if OK, tighten the nut to the next hole for the cotter pin. Then assemble the hub carrier with the hub and axle. Install that nut and washer an torque to 225 ft-lbs. Then install the upper bracket onto each hub carrier and torque tose bolts to 75 ft-lbs. (page 45 in the later manual).

[Bobcat]

Dan ... that`s where I getting confused as the IRS unit has only one axle nut on the half shaft and that is what holds the hub carrier/rotor on the axle/half shaft . The other 4 bolts connect the half shaft to the flanges on the rear end center section . I can`t find my notes from when I built the car/IRS and can`t remember if I go to 140 ft-lbs or 220 ft - lbs and then the next hole on the axle for the cotter pin .

[DanEC]

I'm not sure either as ERA assembled my rear suspension. I was hoping it made sense to you. Maybe Bob will chime in this morning.

Good luck

[DonC]

The 140 setting appears to be just to keep things in place while you're assembling the hub to the car and then the 225 for the final value once everything is in place.
Had a bearing go out in mine a couple of years ago and noted a couple of things.
You're going to need the wheels on the ground to break the nut loose and to do the final tightening.
You're going to need a breaker bar extension to get enough leverage for the final setting. When I took mine apart I thought I'd broken the socket when the nut finally loosened. A loud "crack" when it came loose.
Don't know if I should have but I used anti seize when I put it back together. Seemed to make the re-torquing easier.
DON'T LOOSE THE SPACER BEHIND BEARING. It would be a major pain to try to figure out the float space again.
DonC

[Bobcat]

Thanks for the answers ... 140 ft lbs seemed a little low , but wasn`t sure . Talked to Doug and he uses an impact wrench set on #2 and then torques to the next slot on the nut . My impact doesn`t have those settings . If I remember correctly , I believe I also had to set the car on the ground to get the final torque .... and DonC ... correct on the spacers . I was very careful to keep everything just as it was assembled .
That`s what I get for bedding in a new set of track only pads and then going back to street pads .... and deciding to check everything out ! However , the car stops like I hit a brick wall . On my test road , I was stopping about 30 to 50 yards before my previous braking points .
When I get time , I`ll also post some pictures of my merged collector / Burns Stainless 5 lb muffler project I finished earlier. You wouldn`t believe the difference it made throughout the whole rpm range .
BTW ... ERA Chas ... glad to see you are still here .

[ERA Chas]

I used 150 ft-lbs and no issues since '94.

[strictlypersonl]

The figures and technique in the ERA manual follow the stock Jaguar methods I've found. The torque figure is typical of the design, where the hub is completely supported by the bearings. The axle tension only holds the bearing cones in place, so a very high number is not required.