Weight
 

I've been weighing stuff as we work on things

351w w Lakewood & clutch 520 lb

Lakewood Bell Housing w plate 39 lb
Clutch Pressure PL 19 lb
Flywheel 24 lb

Spec aluminum flywheel 11.1 lb
Spec Pressure Plate 13.41 lb
Spec Clutch Disk 3.9 lb

Tremec 3550 w lube 107 lb

Performer Heads
Performer RPM Manifold 17 lb

Redline Weber Manifold 17 lb
Weber 48 IDA w manifold 40 lb

Header 5.4 lb ea
Oil Cooler
Timing Cover 3.1 lb
Aviad Oil Pan w pickup 16.2 lb
Aluminum radiator w fan 22.25 lb
Edlebrock mechanical fuel pump 1.9 lb


Kirke Aluminum seat - bracket - cover 14.5 lb
ERA Seat w slide 31 lb
EAR Set w/o slide 15.5 lb
Carpet Set 7.5 lb

Windshield w frame 25 lb
Full comp screen
Lexan replacement screen


Aluminum Cobra Cast Covers 5 lb ea
Aluminum Spacers 3 lb ea

Trick Flow Fabricated VC 2.2 ea
Canton Fabricated VC 3.1 ea

Avon 225x65 26.75 lb
Dunlop 235/60 on Trigo 45.8 lb
Avon 225/65 on Trigo 46.5 lb

Spax Shock 3.5 lb ea
Eibach Spring 4.4 lb ea

Front Spindle w Rotor 35.25 lb
Front Spindle w adapter 13.2 lb

Lower Control Arm 4 8 lb
Upper Control Arm 2.65 lb
SPC adjustable UCA

Subaru Steering Rack 11.8 lb
Willwood Superlite w pads 6.9 lb ea
Rotor 11.7 lb ea
Hub & hat 10 lb ea

Front un-sprung weight 102 lb - can we do anything here?

Missing a few I have not weighed yet

Good stuff to know...:)

The most important part of the front unsprung weight is the wheel and tire.

If you have pin-drive wheels, there isn't much that can be reduced without creating a safety issue. If you have bolt-on wheels, I've found an aluminum Wilwood hub and hat that probably saves a few pounds. I've only worked out that system for the big brakes so far.

Wilwood Front Hub & Adapter 3.8 lb - looking good - should get 10 out of the wheels
Wilwood GT48 Rotor 13.1 - glad to have it.

Gen1 Rear
 

http://imageshack.us/a/img543/9053/nbte.jpg

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http://imageshack.us/a/img12/6938/n9pz.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img713/2206/oqqr.jpg

I've heard different stories about what those things weight (400 range typically) and now we know. :)

The wheel / tire combo jumps out. Avons are great but heavy-take your choice. Trigos too.
To compare, my Billboards and magnesium Halibrands:
Wheels: F17.8# R19.7#
Tires F245-60, 18#'s R 295-50, 22#'s.
Combined F 36 R 42
Your best bet is race slicks like G-7's and maybe a bolt-on aluminum 2 piece race wheel. You can get bolt-on hubs for the IRS.
Good job weighing the Jag rear-I forgot to do mine. The newer ERA IRS is 50#'s lighter.
Boy, that warehouse you work in is pretty shabby...

We have the Gen 2 kit with bolt on hubs sitting on the bench.

I bought some steel wheels to fit everything up. Once we have it, I am going to purchase a set of mini lites which are strong enough to run on the street and seemingly 5 to 6 lbs lighter than the FIA replicas. The mags are very expensive and very lite (10-12 lb IIRC), but I still plan to end up there. It is too much money to make a mistake on as they are custom ordered and built. The minis are not cheap, but can be custom ordered and assure we have everything right before I purchase the mags.

The mags would only see track use.

Gees - I cleaned the shop - there is always a critic :D

Does anyone know if there is an aluminum housing available for the Salisbury and if so where can it be sourced? I've spent some time researching it, but come up empty.

x-chr

Try the Kirkhams.

Dart 331
 

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That guy can be aggravating, especially on technical threads. :)

As for weighing stuff, and seeking weight reduction, most folks could lose some around the mid-section too.

That's net-minus the stand and support tubes, right?

Not nuts about that Econoline late distributor...:(

And run that bling-y carb through the blast cabinet-you know how aggravating I am in the technical threads...:mad:

Yeah, that Econoline distributor keeps the spark scatter down....

I use the biggest cap I can when available. It's noticeable even on the dyno when you set the timing.

Surprised to hear that. Never had a break-up problem with my Mallory and MSD to 6800, using those same male terminals and Moroso spiral cores.
All the 'Cup motors use the big cap dizzys, right Brent?

I call it how I see it....

Have done back to back distributor swaps and have seen a big difference in stability when setting the timing. Always use 8mm-9mm plug wires as well. Some guys drill a hole in the cap, but I tend to use the big cap distributors when I can. Sometimes you don't have a choice depending on the manifold design, or because the customer throws a fit, but I do what I can...

Oh, and yes they do.... ;)

http://image.superchevy.com/f/techni...B2_engines.jpg

Wow-that shot is nearly 18,000HP and I can't calc the parts dollar cost..
And RCR ain't quite Hendrick :CRY:

That's really good info.
World did b-t-b testing too but only between brands, not types. Towards the end, settled on the MSD E-curve on the upper range engines. Was more reliable and easy to tune with good manners. That may all be different now.
Found some real junk on lower engines which we could not let out or warranty comebacks would kill us.

Neither the carb or the distributor are staying - it will be Webered. I avoid colored aluminum - just how I roll.

It provides a good starting baseline - it ran when it left Brents shop and I can count on him for any startup issues if needed. Pretty sure that dist won't work with the Webs.

The weight does not include the tube steel supports, but does include the stand. Lighter than I expected. I was going to run an alum mustang bell housing, but the front plate on the gear box does not match so I am going to run a QuickTime which will add a little back in.

On the QuickTime - Is it worth it to purchase SFI - does the bottom still need trimming on a QT.

Opinions or Real life appreciated.

x-chr