Best approach to bleeding the brakes

[Jaydee]

I use the tube in a jar method but I have a one way valve in the tube. Also I pump 3 times, then open the nipple. If I'm flushing, you just keep pumping. You just have to make sure you let the pedal come right up, or else you block the bypass hole in the MC. I'm still wondering the best way to bleed the master from new without making a mess once it's already installed?
I have the twin master setup, Is the balance bar supposed to flop around, It looks ungainly not pushing central like a single setup? I've never had anything to do with this type.
JD

[Bernica]

Originally Posted by mickmate

Brake bleeding brake bleeding brake bleeding...............................

While I am totally fine with the Motive system for bleeding, this Phoenix system is interesting too. But at $400 I will stick with the Motive.

Brake Bleeder Tool - Maxpro

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Bernica

While I am totally fine with the Motive system for bleeding, this Phoenix system is interesting too. But at $400 I will stick with the Motive.

Brake Bleeder Tool - Maxpro

Dang, $400? You can buy a lot of cheddar and cream cheese dip for that....

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by Bernica

While I am totally fine with the Motive system for bleeding, this Phoenix system is interesting too. But at $400 I will stick with the Motive.

Brake Bleeder Tool - Maxpro

Phoenix has several different models. I was remembering V90 but I think what I actually have is the V12 which was about $175. They have commercial units going up to about $400.

Phoenix Systems 2003 Phoenix Systems Brake Bleeder Kits

I think the main theory of the Phoenix system is that by bleeding from a low point to the high point (master reservoir) air is being forced generall upward by the path of it's least resistance. Otherwise, I don't think there is a lot of difference between the Motive and Phoenix system - other than pressurizing the little Girling cans doesn't seem like a good idea to anyone.

[347stroker]

Bernica the one in the Summit catalog is seventy bucks and is for the home mechanic. The other ones are pro units. It works. Tom

[kevins2]

There is one step missing out of the gravity feed method that ERA uses for new, empty systems. After getting fluid in the system and gravity bleeding, Doug closes the bleeders and jacks the front of the car up - uses a 4 x 4 on the jack to raise it as high as possible. Slowly, emphasize...slowly, pump the pedal 5 - 7 times until the gurgling noise stops. This gets air out of the master cylinders. Lower the front and bleed again. I've done this a number of times but am still not happy with the firmness of the pedal. No bubbles coming out but still doesnt' feel firm. I've moved on to other things until I can get a better feel for the pedal (once I can drive the car), but will have to look at other methods if the pedal still seems mushy.

[DanEC]

Decided to start a new thread after first bleeding effort.

[lippy]

I didn't need to jack the car up. Just put the tube in a bottle (one with a magnet on the side) and slowly pumped, furthest first. The first bleed (that had to evacuate all the air in the master cylinder) took the longest, but they went quickly after that. I also have Wilwoods on the front, so that may have made a diff. I'm sure the speed bleeders work perfectly, but this worked fine also, was quick, and didn't cost anything more.

On the clutch master, I spoke with Doug this morning. He told me not to bleed it until the engine/clutch is in, to make adjustment easier.