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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-14-2014, 10:43 PM
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Nice progress

Question ... how will you route the lines from the reservoirs to the master cylinders?
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Old 01-15-2014, 12:16 AM
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Stainless flex with adequate length for full travel. bundle as needed and fix as needed to control placement. It all stays in front. I thought about running hard line from the res to a fixed distribution block and then flex from there to the cylinders, but the guy's I work with think the pedal assembly will be easier to move with more slack in the system.

We will run the pressure switch under the car. I am sure there are a few guy's wiping up puke, but there is upside.

The cylinders are elevated higher in the system with respect to the calipers. The res is isolated from the headers.
I can have a clean firewall.
I can have a clean wheel house.
We can see the level indicators.
Local compact system.
The lower pedal box is gone - I can cleanly sheet that side of the car (bottom aero)

Once the dash is installed it won't matter except to ERA purists (God bless em all). I'll finish with the three caps exposed. Since most of the race cars started as street cars we are well within the Cobra spirit.

From ERA website "it is difficult to assemble this kit wrong"
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Old 01-15-2014, 05:58 AM
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Yes, there is considerable adjustment available in the steering column - at least a couple of inches roughly from memory.
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Old 01-15-2014, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA2076 View Post
... Once the dash is installed it won't matter except to ERA purists (God bless em all). ...
Those pesky purists ...

I suppose if one wanted to, the traditional three cans on the inner left front fender could be plumbed to the new brake & clutch master cylinder set up. Your reservoir / brake line set up should work well, and it's your car ...

Once it's all installed and set up, I would be curious to know if there is any change in brake pedal effort, either more or less pedal pressure needed to stop quickly, based on your previous experience with the stock configuration.

Keep those photos coming!
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Old 01-15-2014, 11:34 AM
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kevins2 = we are hard mounting a Kirkey - no sliders. We will need room for the seat back brace so that will move the seat forward a little.

Dan - the pedal ratio is higher than stock (5.0). The pedal assembly adjusts from 5.25 to 5.75. I plan to make it the pedal as hard as I can within my strength limitations. It is easier and more consistent for me for me to modulate the brakes and manage the throttle if the brake pedal is hard. I plan to tune around the 5.75 ratio. The pedal assembly comes with the throttle pedal offset to the rear. Tilton suggests setting the throttle face in the same plane as the the brake pedal when the brake pedal is fully depressed to allow smooth movement back to the throttle after braking.

Great to know there is column adjustment - we might just be where we need without further compromise.

chr
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Old 01-15-2014, 12:54 PM
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ERA 2076 .... don`t know if the FIA cars use the same pedal assembly and ratios as the 427 cars , but Bob P. at ERA told me the pedal ratio on the 427 cars was 5.5 : 1 .... at least for my chassis my, #757 . Should also be the same for all 427 SC cars .

Bob
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Old 01-15-2014, 07:39 AM
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As Dan said, there is considerable adjustment available in the steering column. You may also consider moving the seat forward one notch (I assume you have seat tracks). That won't change things enough to mess up your plans to use a head pad on the roll bar as you mentioned earlier and will give you more latitude with the steering wheel adjustment. Obviously you don't want your arms to be straight out unless you're incredibly strong...
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Old 01-15-2014, 03:46 PM
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5.62:1 According to my CAD drawings.
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Old 01-15-2014, 04:19 PM
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5.62 on the FIA and the 427 SC or just the FIA car ??
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Old 01-16-2014, 01:32 AM
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I re-measuered on a steel table and twice I got the ratio above 5.6. Means little as it is not properly fixtured to get an accurate measurement. I trust Bobs process is centered around his model with reasonable distribution.

A little disappointing as I was hoping to gain more leverage, but hats off to Bob for building it right to begin with and I do remember the pedal being firm. The only time I stood on the brakes was in the rain going uphill on a 180d switch back and it spun the car immediately and I was not nearly quick enough to catch it (UPHILL). I blew up the motor shortly after so that squelched my learning.

if you guy's could help me with the simple stufF - my Metrology skills have always been lacking - I do not have the patients over long periods of time (anything greater than about a minute anymore- I was better when I was younger).

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Old 01-16-2014, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA2076 View Post
I do not have the patients over long periods of time (anything greater than about a minute anymore- I was better when I was younger).
Sure you do-you've been hacking on this one for a year now...
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Old 01-16-2014, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA Chas View Post
Sure you do-you've been hacking on this one for a year now...
I'm good at hacking - it is my measurement skills that are in question.

Last edited by ERA2076; 01-16-2014 at 10:38 AM.. Reason: spelling
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Old 01-16-2014, 06:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobcat View Post
5.62 on the FIA and the 427 SC or just the FIA car ??
They are the same.
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Old 01-16-2014, 03:05 PM
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Nothing but a DA will remove that. Take it down to the gelcoat and finish with spatter paint. Do the trunk and doors shells.
Edit: -and how come the driver door was not carpeted?
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Old 01-16-2014, 03:18 PM
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If you're planning on putting the carpet/door pouches back, you only have the top area to deal with. Acetone might cut the glue. It will also soften the paint, but if you're careful, you can get away with it in an area like that. Worth a try before refinishing.
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Old 01-16-2014, 06:12 PM
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A different adhesive was used thru out the car (including the drivers door) which was very easily removed.

I am not going to run any carpet.

chr
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Old 01-16-2014, 06:13 PM
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Kevin - already tried acetone - came to your conclusion. Better for me to to let a pro deal with it.

chr
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Old 01-16-2014, 06:15 PM
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For some reason I can't see the photos but if you need to remove set contact adhesive, get a can of 3M Adhesive Remover and try it. It will soften most adhesives with some soaking. Usually still takes a lot of rubbing to get it off but urethane should be up to it and can be buffed out afterwards.
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Old 01-16-2014, 06:13 PM
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Spatter paint-it's no weight.
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Old 01-16-2014, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA Chas View Post
Spatter paint-it's no weight.
Yea I see it - interesting.

Dan - I used the 3M remover on all of the other adhesive - worked like a charm.

This guy - not so much.

chr
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